Back to Bilbao
It is entered through the four cardinal points until the heart of streets, of taverns and bitters of Bilbao. Everything gets entangled then because just like going into the red and white capital requires premeditation, getting out of it forces an integrity that weakens each bar.
There are classic and there are modern . In all of them, even in the most contemporary ones, the 'botxera' soul (Botxo is the nickname of Bilbao and as the people of Bilbao affectionately call that place enclosed between mountains) . The tangle of old streets built a way of being that crossed the waters - today oxygenated - of that estuary that divides the city in two. The Bilbao character it still resists today despite its extensions.
The roots of Bilbao, its traditions and its culture remain intact although now they shine on the facade of the Guggenheim Museum, on the facade of the japanese isozaki towers or in the windows of the most instagrammable restaurants -yes, there are some here too-. And in that balance he has found the greatest reason to return to it.
Guggenheim
With the arrival of the American Art Center and its exhibitions in 1997 For the first time, art was discussed as a city policy, as a transformative fact. The exhibitions of Chillida, Calder, Anish Kapoor, Hockney, Chinese Cai Guo-Qiang or the last -and fantastic- retrospective of the Danish-Icelandic Olafur Eliasson.
The Museum of Fine Arts, galleries such as CarrerasMugica, theaters such as Arriaga, Kafe Antzokia, centers such as BilbaoArte or the multidisciplinary Azkuna Zentroa (Alhóndiga) and small business and bookstore initiatives such as Sopa de Sapo -yes, children exist- also take care of inject culture into Bilbao's veins in the form of exhibitions, concerts, shows, workshops, screenings and conferences. A blood test will reveal the good health of the city in this matter.
BILBAO, EVEN IF IT RAINS
“But Bilbao is no longer what it was, the weather has improved a lot! ”, they answer botxeros when they notice atmospheric reluctance in their interlocutor -especially if one is from Gipuzkoa and also travels from the south-. is the friendly face of climate change and a phrase that is repeated in arcades, in the elevators that take you from one walk to another -in the north the neighborhoods climb mountains-, and in the rhythmic hubbub of the bars. It is a Basque gift to find order in the maelstrom.
Bilbao always (even if it rains)
Despite this, singing in the rain in Bilbao has its one: the clash of umbrellas in the Seven Streets , the zuritos rescued from the air in bars to bursting and the children in Raincoat and garish katiuskas in Doña Casilda Park , in the Arenal, in the Artxanda or Kobetamendi viewpoint . Life goes on as if nothing had happened: happiness makes them waterproof.
LO EGIN: SLEEPING IN BILBAINO
References to the weather also fill hotel receptions, which are becoming more and more numerous. The Ville it is already close to a million tourists a year and the lack of beds has invited new hotel chains to the city.
These new openings have motivated the updating of legendary accommodations such as the Gran Hotel Domine ( Preferred Hotels & Resorts ), that glass construction that looks without being seen at the gates of the Guggenheim and that seems to bow down to the waters of the estuary.
Gran Hotel Domine Bilbao
The hotel, opened in 2002 and designed by Javier Marshal , it is one of the first 'author hotels' in Spain . Look where you look, design and art -how can it be otherwise in the Art District of the city- dotted rooms and corners. The hotel was renovated in 2017 and now it is once again taking a turn to "open up more to the people of Bilbao", as Ignacio Gutiérrez, its director since November 2019, comments.
Among the novelties, the reform of The Coffee -his bistro- to make it “cozier”. His letter already is. In it occur the good raw materials from the region one after another and their menu of the day is one of the most requested in the city. Changes are also coming to beltz interior design , the gastronomic restaurant led by Abel Corral , which seeks more visibility from the outside.
Beltz means black in Basque , but that does not mean that there is no light in his proposal. Corral's approach -which paradoxically began in his kitchens to which he has now returned as head chef- goes into the Basque cuisine from the avant-garde with the maximum regarding the product. An example is their very juicy hake with tomato pilpil sauce and sautéed mushrooms topped with wild asparagus that magnifies the textures or the low-temperature lamb with black garlic. His torrija is one of the best in the Villa.
Yes, on good weather days its panoramic terrace is the star -do not miss a breakfast in it- at lunchtime after-work it is your Sixty-One Lobby Bar , sheltered under a geometric ceiling inspired by the Mondrian's work . It offers coffee, cocktails and snacks in an environment that has managed to balance classicism and modernity and will now have DJ sessions to liven up Thursday afternoons.
To the elegance and comfort of its 145 rooms , ten of them suites, are added names of designers such as Marshal, Philippe Starck or Humans since 1982 . Also brands like The White Company . Don't let the names overwhelm you. If there is one thing that this luxury hotel exudes, it is affection, something that its dedicated staff is responsible for transmitting.
On the same avenue is the Hotel Miro (Preferred Hotels & Resorts ). The welcome is given by a welcoming living room full of art books and leather sofas in which the waits are desired endless. This is a good clue to the tone of this accommodation designed by Antonio Miró, which offers its 50 rooms since 2002 and whose staff you will continue to remember over the years. It's one of those places.
Not in vain, if you are one of those who repeat in staying in its minimalist rooms or in its The Brown Bread Bag , its brunch with ingredients from artisan producers (and you will be) you will not forget the welcome of Ruben Varela (his Guest Experience Manager, who was also born in that same building when it was a hospital), that of his director, Leire Betzuen , nor that of the team that has been working there for more than 15 years.
Whether you are a guest or not and especially if you are one of those who enjoy a breakfast more than a tasting menu , you should sit on the mezzanine floor -choose the table by the window- and let yourself go. A selection of organic sourdough breads from Gure Ogia, Artisanal jams from Orduña, honey from Urdaibai, Santi butter or avocados from the avocado tree which even bears his name from the estate The Aleses of Almayate (Malaga).
The ecological chick eggs -first laying- are a delight . Its concentrated flavor shines Benedict-style, scrambled with salmon or poached on avocado toast. You can fully immerse yourself in the Basque proposal and add black pudding and txistorra or escape to Lebanon through his Shakshuka . Wash all this down with their slow filter coffee or why not, while you're at it, with a Mimosa cocktail.
And it also has a spa . What more could you want.
EDAN: DRINKING IN BILBAINO
Two trends have taken root in Bilbao: the cocktail bar and the craft beer . For some years now, the Bilbao art district has expanded its concept and has added new works in the form of cocktails . You don't have to walk far to find a place that takes special care of mixed drinks.
This is how what is now called Bilbao's 'Cocktail District' was born, drawn on the map from addresses such as the Residence Café of the charismatic Manu Iturregi -in the capital since 2003-, the Gin Fizz by Fran Ceacero , the Sumerian Club either The Moscow Mule , the hipster temple of the Eixample cocktail bar. The classic Bar Basque or La Antigua Cigarrería or the cocktail menu starting with vermouths from promenade delimit this district, which is beginning to find replicas in other areas, as is the case with interesting proposals such as the new Ara 23 in the Old Town. Ethyl waters flow.
And La Morrocotuda, Bizarre and Singular and their wide range of craft beers from different origins, including Basque, contribute to the greatness of the zurito. At their counters they line up in single file over half a dozen beer taps that nourish the throats of the most malt.
We will toast again in one of Bilbao's classics
Special mention deserves Chef Aitor Elizegi's Basquery , the now president of Athletic Bilbao. This brand, which coexists with others from the chef such as the more refined Bascook or the cozy Txocook and its market cuisine -and a good wine list by the bottle-, it has become a place of pilgrimage in the surroundings of the gardens of Albia.
They brew their own beer in the same place from recipes formulated by themselves and serve them directly from the maturation tanks. But it is also that its cuisine is simple, based on seasonal and local products. From breakfast -highly recommended thanks to its good raw materials- to dinner, you can see how they make the almost obscene breads and cakes in their workshop on view.
JAN: EATING IN BILBAINO
And this brings us to the important thing. It is not easy to eat in Bilbao . The usual thing is to get lost in its labyrinth of gastronomic possibilities and the best thing is to let yourself be guided by the atmosphere that each of its neighborhoods exudes. Your plan will mark the route . Going out for pintxos is not the same as sitting down to a table and tablecloth, and the city has essential addresses in each case.
of pintxos
Plaza Nueva, Ledesma street, Henao or Marzana are some of the nerve centers of good eating in Bilbao. Write down the addresses, it is not easy for a Gipuzkoan to recognize the goodness of the adversary.
If you fancy the fuss of Old Town , especially on a Sunday morning, you can not miss the appointment with the pintxos of Plaza Nueva. La Olla de Plaza Nueva (that scallop), Sorginzulo or Gure Toki (and its grilled foie gras) are mandatory stops. Add the Urdiña and its marianito prepared to go out dancing the 'aurresku' . The Baster express omelette and one of its vermouths cannot be missing from a self-respecting menu.
Marianito in Baster
Nearby are the Basaras Tavern (attention, anchovies ) or the Motrikes, with its legendary Grilled ‘txampis’ washed down with a secret vinaigrette in which garlic, white wine, olive oil and lemon are guessed. A tasty and simple bite to eat that has hundreds of parishioners on weekends.
Ledesma street is a hive of neighbors at lunchtime pintxo-pot . On that pedestrian street parallel to the Gran Ví The hours -and the appetite- will fly from bar to bar. The route is easy: you just have to stand on its highest part and drop down.
For starters, the oysters at El Puertito accompanied by a good champagne never hurt. The next step will take you to the bar of the Bilbao Berria and its menu of portions in which the raw material shines ( your baby squid croquette deserves a wave ). If you prefer something simpler, go to Promenade and ask for a mini salad sandwich accompanied by one of its more than 40 vermouth references or enter the mythical Cafe Iruna (or where to eat the Moorish lamb skewer of your life).
Pintxo-Pote in Bilbao Berria
Very close, crossing the Gran Vía, two essential breaks with the name of an ingredient: Iberian ham from The Vineyard of the Enlargement and the au gratin crab pintxo from The balloon . Don't get lost in its crowded counter. This is the best.
The dairy proposals Gaztandegi ('cheese shop' in Basque ) will make you want to go to Pozas. There you can also enjoy the brass pintxos bar -more oriented towards exotic palates- or the Cork , in which, in addition to the wines, the salted and smoked.
The juicy and semi-raw tortilla -things are done well or they are not done- Mr Marvelous It will take you to calle Henao. And on any self-respecting pintxo route in the area, you can't miss a visit to the Corkscrew or the aforementioned Morrocotuda. The first for his good rations and the second for the simplicity of its proposal –“a village product”, as José Ramón himself defines it- in a relaxed atmosphere.
The neighborhood of San Francisco It has been in rehabilitation for several years and the opening of places like El Perro Chico, El Laterío or Peso Neto has drawn the most indie of the city to enjoy an aperitif on its inconceivable slopes. Bathed in the midday sun, the steps that give access to the neighborhood from the other bank of the river do nothing more than send invitations to whoever passes by. Irresistible.
Reserve a table
One of the city's temples is La Despensa del Etxanobe led by Fernando Canales and Mikel Population . High-flying creative Basque cuisine. Their ajoblanco is spectacular, as is their selection of wines from Antonio Martin. You can order half portions. Its professional room service will guide you like no one else. In addition, you will be able to taste many of the dishes of its Atelier Etxanobe , the restaurant with Michelin star of Canals , like the cold lasagna with anchovies in tomato soup.
Very close, Daniel Lomana brings to Euskadi one of the best Japanese proposals in the territory: kuma . Product of excellent quality treated with the mastery that the kitchens of Japan in which he has learned and worked have given him. Make a reservation at your walnut bar and enjoy the show. And do not miss the bull tartar with truffled egg in your order.
Eneko Atxa has conquered the Euskalduna Palace to install there Eneko Bilbao (one Michelin star) , a simpler version of his three-star Azurmendi. In it he returns to the recipes of his childhood and brings the Basque Country to the plate. Their Kaipiritxa -a version of caipirinha in which he substitutes cachaça for txakolí- is a good example of his game in the kitchen.
We could continue: the restaurant Alvaro Garrido Mine, Nerua by Josean Alija at the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, the new Wave of Martin de Berasategui either The Charters , a more spontaneous, traditional and quality option.
And spontaneity also knows the kitchens of restaurants that have chosen to offer something different to the gastronomic route of Bilbao. It is the case of Kimtxu or Origin , who fight to convince people from Bilbao that there is life beyond cod a la vizcaína.
Bilbao is very his . And even they admit it. “It is difficult for us to get out of the way, pay for quality when it is associated with new proposals. Of course, for the chop we pay whatever it is”, he jokes Amaia Muñoz, owner of the newly minted Lebanese restaurant La Lianta -worth a visit, or two- and Julio de Vena's right-hand man in one of the few specialty cafes in the city: Cinnamon Coffee Lab . Don't miss her weekend brunch.
Take away yes, but delicatessen
And if you don't want to brandish swords to be able to fill your stomach in a Bilbao bar, the city offers several shops where you can take the delicacies in a paper bag. The manducateca , La Viña, La Despensa del Igeretxe, El Colmado del Basquery - don't miss their cornbread, cream puff pastry or Japanese cheese cake-, La Oka or La Quesería del Casco Viejo are some of the altars of good products . And if you're still hungry -and cooking-, give in to Lautxo croquettes . The queues at its door on certain dates give a good clue to its excellence. They have more than fifteen varieties made every day and each one better. The ones with mushrooms, those from Idiazábal and those with baby squid are battered nirvana.
And the dessert? Write down. The new phenomenon of the city is the bakery Gure Ogia , which has just expanded into several locations from the seaside town of Mungia. Selected among the best bakeries in Spain by Panatics, they are not far behind in confectionery either. His handling of puff pastry is spectacular . Yes, only to take away.
In the Old Town shines Charamel , a Cafeteria-pastry workshop with a French atmosphere with a showcase that gives vertigo. Their cheesecakes are always a safe choice if you don't want to spend hours deciding on one of their sweets.
For chocolate -and the classic Bilbao tile- Le Chocolate , Also in the labyrinth of the Seven Streets . And if you're looking for an ice cream even if it rains, The Dolce Vita of Ledesma Street will give you back the light with its Bilbao butter bun ice cream. If what you want is to eat one in a solid format, try the one from the oka , and if you prefer a classic among the classics, come to Arrested whose premises on Gran Vía have been open since 1852. They are mythical, and rightly so, its cream and chocolate truffles and its Russian cake , only suitable for the sweet tooth.
It is difficult to enter Bilbao. You don't come by chance. However, there are plenty of reasons to stay inside.