Hackney, the London neighborhood to which you will succumb

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It's not in fashion but it will be

It's not in fashion, but it will be

The neighborhood smells like carrot cake, muffins with chocolate chips, organic coffee with soy milk (or almond milk, or rice milk, or whatever you like the most). We are in Haggerston -one of the districts within Hackney- and the landscape could not be more bucolic: in front of us, the water of the canal that flows slowly towards Stratford, red brick buildings with ivy climbing the walls and children throwing pieces of bread to feed the swans.

That's Hackney

That's Hackney

Hackney has also been another of the "victims" of the London gentrification. As has happened to Shoreditch or Brixton , this is a vibrant new hub of art and culture where the new middle class settles down to create, pushing the less affluent into places that haven't yet seen relentless price rises.

Rosie, 26, has lived here all her life, and she keeps explaining to me: “ten years ago, even less, I It never occurred to me to walk alone along the canal depending on what time at night. I even once pretended to live in a building that wasn't mine because I was being followed. Now that's not the case anymore things have changed in Hackney, I'm not afraid of it anymore ”. I don't know this neighborhood in any other way than with its brand new atmosphere of gafapostureo , although the truth is that you can imagine what Rosie is saying because she still retains that small, although remote, touch of contingency. Hackney has managed to rebuild its image investing in culture and leisure ; You will find some of the best clubs in London's vibrant nightlife, along with independent theater venues, multi-venue establishments and century-old cinemas such as the ** Rio Cinema ** in dalston , one of the liveliest places in Hackney (although we can't forget Haggerston, Stoke Newington, Hoxton or Hackney Central either) . We have set out to slowly dissect this neighborhood so that you take note of everything you should visit. We warn you that one day will not be enough.

Who doesn't fancy a walk along the canal?

Who doesn't fancy a walk along the canal?

DALSTON, THE NEW SHOREDITCH

If you google Dalston, second only to Wikipedia, you will find an entry titled Why is Dalston the coolest place in Britain? The truth is that the article in English lists some reasons, but not enough. When you first set foot in Dalston you realize you have a little piece of London in your hand , which is presented as a microecosystem, a small bubble in which you will not need to leave to find what you are looking for. Has it all!

Dalston was originally one of four villages in the parish of Hackney. With the arrival of industrialization in the 19th century, this small town grew and became a London neighbourhood, with immigrants who came mainly from Jamaica, Turkey, Vietnam and Poland . That ethnic spirit still survives, along with its image of an industrial area, although the latter is more about the façade than the interior, since Dalston flames creativity from all sides.

dalston

dalston

We started by making a stop between the 18 and 22 Aswin Street , where there is a cafe that could well be one of the best cafes in London and that has already made an egg among my favorites in the city. ** Café Oto ** has a disheveled but delicate appearance, like the elegance of one who does not look for it. It also presents a rich program of musical events that brings the best bands and vocalists that lend themselves to the city. To his right, at number 24 of the same street, his sister Arcola Theater , keeps you company. Arcola has been the launch pad for many artists, such as the famous theater actress Rebecca Lenkiewicz, or Alecky Blythe, or Joe Sims . Take a look at the program of its two rooms, the best avant-garde works in London will undoubtedly be represented here.

We go from number 24 to 18, until you find one of those co-working buildings, collective spaces for cooperatives or freelancers who are looking for a piece of desktop at an affordable price. On the top floor of this building is the popular ** Roof Park **, one of the best terraces from where you can see all of Dalston while you sip a cocktail served in a plastic glass (not everything can be perfect). Undoubtedly, one of the best plans in Dalston is watch the sunset and have a few drinks on this terrace until 12 pm , closing time.

A sunset here the end of the perfect day in Dalston

A sunset here - the end of the perfect day in Dalston

not far from Aswin Street is one of the most charming places in the district, the Dalston Eastern Curve Garden , Dalston Community Garden. It is a small hidden paradise at 13 Dalston Lane which survives thanks to the participation of volunteers and whose admission is completely free. In it you will find a cafe covered with wooden pergolas and full of flannel blankets to protect you from the cold. They only serve organic and homemade products, and we already noticed that their pizzas triumph like the most. Other places that you cannot miss is the mythical Dalston Jazz Bar . Sheltered in one of the corners of the gillet square , this club brings the neighborhood to life with the most traditional jazz. It looks like a 50's club and its space is very small, but best of all, you can enjoy live music with one of its exotic kangaroo meat burgers, a crocodile fillet, frog legs, or a bite of White shark.

Dalston Eastern Curve Garden

Dalston Eastern Curve Garden

STOKE NEWINGTON, AND THE BACK TO BLACK

The border between Dalston and Stoke Newington is very confusing, but just follow Kingsland Road to the north, to find the latter. Stoke Newington is more appeased , but its main street (of the same name) is still lined with numerous vintage shops and Instagrammable coffee shops, like the L'atelier , a kisch place with airs of French song and, although he cooks well, he also cooks well.

We strongly recommend that you do not miss the opportunity to stop at Retro Beyond , the coolest second-hand store in the entire neighborhood. Although we also recommend going with time, because you can spend hours and hours looking for that perfect eighties blouse, that fifties fur coat and, why not say it, your ideal Halloween costume . regain strength in The Bagel House , the place that serves popular bagels 24 hours a day at a good price and quality to match. In front of him, on the sidewalk to the left, you will run into the Aziziye Mosque , an architectural piece that breaks with the visual scheme of the street, half of which functions as a mosque and the other half as a market.

But the jewel of Stoke Newington, a very special one, is Abney Park , a cemetery built at the beginning of the 19th century and which has become a place for walking and peace for many residents. Although we are not going to deceive ourselves, her popularity has grown since Amy Winehouse recorded the video clip of her famous 'Back to Black '. Curiously, Abney Park was designed to function as a botanical garden and, although it has more than 2,500 varieties of plants, it was eventually used as a cemetery. In the seventies, the place fell into disuse for more than a decade when the company that managed it went bankrupt. Later, it was the Hackney council that took charge of it, although it never left behind that halo of an abandoned cemetery, with tombstones broken in half and tree roots raising earth. Just in case, don't stare too much at the muddy ground.

Abney Park

Abney Park

HAGGERSTON, BLESSED CHANNEL

Less than fifteen minutes walk from Dalston, you will find Haggerston, also the favorite of many Londoners to live and spend the night. It is a quiet refuge, without the rattle of Dalston, from where you can reach ** Broadway Market Street, a street that we already told you about **. Haggerston is home to many tiny parks where you can unwind quietly reading a book or just have a beer lying on the grass. But don't sit for a long time, because there is a lot to explore.

start with the Geffrye Museum , the former Haggerston almhouse. This is a term used by the English to designate social houses that offered accommodation to people in need. Now the building has been converted into a museum that describes itself as “the house museum” , in which you will find a series of domestic designs ranging from the year 1600 to the present.

Geffrye Museum

Geffrye Museum

When night falls (and the cats turn brown) you can head to two Haggerston favorites. One of them is Fox , which has a nice terrace upstairs to go to if the room downstairs is overflowing (which it most likely will). You may also find Luna swarming from one place to another, the dog of one of her baristas. You will care for her as much as she will for you. Our second proposal is more musical, and has the same name as the district. TheHaggerston It is one of the lesser-known Jazz meeting points in Hackney, but it will be worth spending a Sunday to enjoy its live music.

HACKNEY CENTRAL, CHARLES CHAPLIN AND MARIE LLOYD

Although it is the backbone of Hackney, the truth is that Dalston beats it in popularity. But Hackney Central is not far behind when it comes to must-attend activities and venues. Its eloquent nightlife is due to places as mythical as the Hackney Empire , a theater designed by the award-winning architect Frank Matchham and built more than a hundred years ago, specifically in 1901. This was one of the first theaters to have electric light, a projector and … central heating, but the most important thing about it is not its position as a pioneer, but rather having had the honor of present names as big as Charles Chaplin or Marie Lloyd, who lived a few streets back, in Graham Rd.

Hackney Empire

Hackney Empire

If you're a brewer, then you should go to one of the most original places and recognized by its neighbors, the Clapton Craft . It is a local craft beer shop that in 2015 was awarded as one of the best places in Hackney with Time Out magazine's Love London Awards. Beers that you must try without exception are that of ** Beavertown **, Brixton Brewery and the Camden Pale Ale .

As a last suggestion, stop by the historic Sutton House , one of the Tudor dynasty mansions built in 1535 for Sir Ralph Sadleir, chief Secretary of State to Henry VIII. It is the oldest Tudor residence in Hackney and still stands intact as a museum on the street Homerton High Street. A curiosity: Sutton House is probably the house with the oldest toilet in London.

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