Equipo Aponiente, the great ship with the three Michelin stars
For decades, the Michelin Guide acted as sole judge and executioner of the gastronomic influence in the world ; every new star the Rouge translated into a tremendous impact whose shock waves were immediate: in reservations, waiting lists and the focus of the “traditional” media.
Not only that, until the appearance of Top 50 Restaurants , the Michelin was the only international scale that chefs could use to measure themselves against each other. And this, let us never forget, is not only about food: it's also about egos.
But the world (thankfully) mutates and changes and evolves (sometimes even for the better); Yes even Zahara has reached OT . Our present changes a little every day and let's not say if we plant the magnifying glass in gastronomy: **today you eat wonderfully well in so many restaurants without a Star ** but with the favor of so many gourmets and, also, of the public ( "The cinema is four hundred seats to fill" , said Hitchcock and here we think the same) : Coure , The Tasquita in front , Fracas , sasha, Saiti , succulent either Nozomi They do not have it. Y?
Sacha, you always have to come back
The great chefs (so lowly, of course, it's not going to be that...) openly admit that the impact of the Guide on your reservations is less and less . That 50 Best has overtaken him on the right and that one minute master chef or a photo (geolocated) on the right Instagram is infinitely more influential...
But Michelin is still there, rewarding a model of fine dining absolutely away from your writing partner: **I think he will have dinner tonight at the Miyama bar**. He doesn't have a star either. . Ask in your surroundings, Has anyone stepped on Abac lately? In what mid-morning conversation does Michelin slip in other than that of the four usual scumbags?
The elitist nature de la Guía (that nature that has almost blended in with its brand) was one of those responsible for its popularity and is being responsible for its decline. Hopefully they wake up and don't continue to feed that attitude a little 'We will die with our boots on', immovable in their pattern despite that legion of excellent inspectors: impeccable hard workers with whom no other guide or medium can compete . Well okay.
The 2018 Michelin Guide is preceded by an assumption great year for Spanish gastronomy ”; They say it because of the awards for ** Aponiente ** and Abac and for the new Two Stars : Maralba in Almansa , two skies Y Enjoy in Barcelona and the restaurant Bonavista Cabin of El Palmar, Murcia (under, the complete list of novelties) .
Here you come to ENJOY
David Moralejo , gastronome of race and director of this house, does not cut a hair: "The communication team of the Michelin Guide, led by Angel Pardo and Mayte Carreno , every year an ace is pulled out of the sleeve to keep us all on edge. This time it touched the doubt of if it would be one the tristarred... or two . And finally in pairs. Aponiente was sung, but not so much Abac (perhaps televised, because here in Tenerife Jordi Cruz shone more than the entire guide).
That said, let's go to the buzz: between canapé and canapé -by the way, an olé por The Ritz-Carlton Abama and the deployment of it-, the feeling was of year decaf , how well we are in Tenerife in the sun, where are the chefs that we always want to be there (and they will never be if we continue down this path) ... and to César what is César's, a new victory for Barcelona . Something that makes us very happy in these times.
The two stars of Dos Cielos are well deserved for both of them Torres brothers (they were missing a two, it was clear) and also those of Enjoy , which in this case are to be divided among three cooks and it would not be strange if, at the rate they are going, the next one would soon fall. Too bad that Xavier Pellicer has lost his with the closure of Celeri.
Plus: much, much joy among those of us who know Benito ( Bardal, Round ), and surprise at Madrid, not so much because Bait, that he was going for the star without dissimulation , but for a Candle that he was there, yes, in his coquettish local Ópera (Madrid), but that he had lost steam in word of mouth after opening it. And eye, Samy does it well . Hopefully this will help you get back on track. Oh, and for the part that touches me of Castilian pride... deserved that star for Víctor Martín and Noemí Martínez , the hard-working couple that makes it possible Wheat , in Valladolid".
Congratulations, Trigo team!
I will continue buying Michelin Guide : I admire his seriousness, rigor and his love for restoration; I know that he is honest . But I want (for asking) one Vibrant and human guide. A Living Guide. I wish.
And here is the complete list of the twenty-four new Stars throughout our gastronomic para. Congratulations to all:
THREE STARS
ABaC (Barcelona) by Jordi Cruz
Aponiente (The Port of Santa Maria) by Ángel León
TWO STARS
Maralba in Almansa (Albacete)
two skies (Barcelona)
Enjoy (Barcelona)
Coke (Madrid)
Bonavista Cabin from El Palmar (Murcia)
A STAR
**Andalusia: Alevante ** in Chiclana de la Frontera, ** Novo Sancti Petri ** (Cádiz) and Bardal in Ronda (Malaga)
Catalonia: Caelis and ** Enigma ** in Barcelona and Castle Peralada in Peralada
**Madrid: La Candela Restó** and Bait
Basque Country: Amelio in San Sebastián and Eneko in Larrabetzu
Valencian Community : Happens (Valencia) , Audrey's by Rafa Soler (Calp) and The Rodat (Xàbia).
The rest is distributed as follows : La Bicicleta in Hoznayo (Cantabria), El Doncel in Sigüenza (Castilla-La Mancha), Trigo de Valladolid (Castilla y León), Kiro Sushi in Logroño (La Rioja), Nub de La Laguna in Santa Cruz de Tenerife and finally Gusto (Almancil) and Vista (Praia da Rocha) in Portugal.