Corner of the store and multispace Facon
**Twelve years have passed since my last time in Buenos Aires ** and here I am again, in a city that is said so often to be reminiscent of Madrid because, in a certain way, it is.
But let's not forget that it boasts a strong identity of its own and that, beyond stereotypes, its inhabitants, the porteños, have a special “something”. They are cultured people, talkative and always connected.
It is surprising to see how they discuss family problems, sentimental bonds, human relationships... and how they address the emotional, something that on this side of the Atlantic we are still light years away from.
And, without going into intensities, it turns out that they are also fun and cheerful, always attentive to enjoy life and small pleasures , like sharing your inseparable mate with friends. It is thus, disserting about the divine and the carnal, that we enter one of the most popular neighborhoods among locals and visitors. Oh dear Palermo.
The Argentine flag painted on a wall in Palermo
Its cobbled streets are full of life: beautifully decorated bars , almost all of wood, reminiscent of a bohemian past time, restaurants where you can eat "half in the street, half on the sidewalk" while you see a girl go by who drags twenty dogs at the same time and of course, carnivorous temples , my God!, overflowing with bife de chorizo (our sirloin), entrails, empty, round, creoles...
Because in this field, almost like in football, there is no one who wins them: If someone here invites you to eat at his house, it is very likely that he will prepare an “asadito”, a feast of grilled meat that on these summer afternoons –indeed, we are in summer right now– It causes the coal to smoke on many terraces and patios of buildings and the embers to crackle.
It smells like barbecue throughout the city, but let's not forget that in Buenos Aires you will also taste delicious pasta, because the Italian heritage is very present in their daily life.
Suitcases stacked at the Flea Market
Our first stop is at ** Casa Cavia , a small oasis with an imposing terrace in a beautiful garden** with its fountain... and its own flower shop.
The careful interior design has its climax in a bookstore where books hang from the ceiling , many of the copies edited by themselves. The cocktail menu is presented on a vinyl record and each singer names a different drink: a Bob Marley, please!
We continue the walk towards ** Facón **, a kind of house that welcomes you with the sign “this house is open for good friends” and in which you go through spacious rooms full of products from all over the country.
Knives, backpacks, rugs, photography books, blankets and even, suddenly, a live cooking class. They also offer wine tasting.
Gaucho knives in Facon
After the walk it's time for dinner, or as they say, “eat at night” So we opted to dodge the grill for a while at **Grand Dabbang, an es-pec-ta-cu-lar Indian fusion restaurant.**
your chef, Mariano Ramon surprises us with Varied fish dishes, extra spicy, meat and really original and different sauces. The place is simple and unpretentious, what matters is the product. And boy do they succeed.
The visit also serves as an excuse to discover Villa Crespo, an emerging neighborhood just a hop from Chacarita and Palermo Hollywood in which many artists have been settling in search of spacious and bright workshops.
This is the case of **the old industrial warehouse converted into a studio for painters and sculptors, a legacy of the great Ruth Benzacar** which, under the direction of Orly Benzacar and Mora Bacal, exudes creativity and talent and since 2015 has become a Referrer.
Workshop of the designer Jéssica Trosman
A great contrast gives meaning to the neighborhood between old auto repair shops and clothing stores, many outlets, street art and restaurants.
One of the latter, ** Yeite Café , by the charming and beautiful chef Pamela Villar **, has become one of our favorites ipso facto, but be careful: they only serve meals at noon, always based on healthy and delicious recipes. Desserts are crazy too.
For the most curious and shopping lovers, a visit to the Flea market , a classic trail full of antiques, art, furniture and a thousand and one knickknacks. Among all of them, an immense tower of old suitcases makes us imagine how many places they have visited throughout their lives.
Not far from the market hides a bookstore that will leave you with your mouth open. Half camouflaged with its brick facade, if you look closely you will see a sign indicating the entrance, ** Falena Bookstore **.
A true haven of peace with an interior patio and huge windows They are practically glass walls. The plan here is to have tea or wine while you browse books and, before leaving, climb a beautiful staircase to the terrace, where they sometimes offer concerts so that nobody moves from some very comfortable sofas that catch. Go without haste.
Pamela Villar in her restaurant, the collective project Yeite Café
We go through the neighborhood of Chacarita, in the same radius of action, which has recently become an **emerging gastronomic pole thanks to restaurants like La Mar **, located in an imposing building.
Experts in fish and ceviche They have a splendid terrace and their juices are delicious.
From there we jump to the **Museum of Latin American Art of Buenos Aires, MALBA**, whose 20th century collection is a journey in itself, with 240 pieces by artists such as Frida Kahlo, Diego Rivero or Fernando Botero.
Art and football get along wonderfully in Buenos Aires, so it's also a must the visit to the Boca Juniors stadium in the neighborhood of La Boca.
During the match –because you have to go to a match–, the stands do not stop singing and jumping in “La bombonera”, named for its oval shape, reminiscent of a box of chocolates. When Maradona leans out of his box to say hello, the audience cheers and goes wild singing to his god. That is devotion.
Dalí and Pelé graffiti next to the Puldas Market
As a final touch, the well-deserved tribute arrives at ** Tegui , a restaurant with impeccable service thanks to chef Germán Martitegui** who offers a ten-course tasting menu.
Considered one of the best restaurants in Latin America and the world, this year is in position 86 of the World's 50 Best.
At 34, by the way, is ** Don Julio , one of the most famous grills in the world ** and to which we already took you in the April 2018 issue of Condé Nast Traveler.
After these days we could return home rolling instead of flying, but always with the suitcase full of that unique way of life that the porteños have. Emotions, love, family and so much passion to show the rest of the world.
Staircase of the Casa Rosada, presidential residence
JOURNEY NOTEBOOK
WHERE TO SLEEP
Cotton Mansion: Scott Mathis is behind, together with his partners, the Algodon group, without accent but with wines and agricultural products from his farm in Mendoza, private villas and now this urban hotel, cozy and cool.
Four Seasons: A classic from Buenos Aires. We love everything: its elegance, its pool, its cocktail bar, its atmosphere... It's in Recoleta, of course.
WHERE TO EAT
Omakase Masuda : The speakeasy at Bar du Marché, in Palermo Hollywood, is actually a great japanese restaurant closed menu.
Sushi Master at Omasake
Cavia House: Breakfast among flowers, snacks between books , culture, art and much, much beauty.
Big Dabbang: Indian cuisine that actually travels the fusion , also with a stop in Argentina.
Yeite: Collective project led by Pamela Villar. Her desserts are addictive, try them.
The sea: Who said that fish was not eaten in Buenos Aires? And what ceviche...
Sacrum: Plant-based world cuisine in a beautiful setting. Vegetables on the rocks.
Books on the roof of Casa Cavia
WHERE TO BUY
Dubie: Women's clothing and footwear firm, its hits, such as the "emotional raincoat", are sweeping.
Jessica Trosman: Minimalism and modernity from the hand of one of the most popular designers.
** Falena Bookstore: ** More than a bookstore, a paradise for book lovers and a refuge.
Flea market: Historic antiques market between the neighborhoods of Palermo and Colegiales.
WHAT TO SEE
Ruth Benzacar Gallery: Epicenter of art in Villa Crespo and seed of the neighborhood's creative impetus.
MALBA: In addition to Latin American art, cultural initiatives such as the cycles La Mujer y el Cine.
Desserts in Yeite