The return to Galicia in 31 tortillas
We could stop to discuss whether the potato omelette was born in Navarre , in the province of Badajoz , in Valencia , on several of those sites simultaneously, or on none of them. And we could, surely, go on for hours. But being able to hit the road in search of some of the best tortillas in Galicia, the second seems to me to be a much more appealing plan.
Because regardless of whether the tortilla had its origin in one place or another, the truth is that Galicia, which almost never appears in those bets on origins, has managed to win a good fame As far as this recipe is concerned.
It will be for the Galician potato quality, It will be because they are normally made sweet there, because you get the perfect balance between juicy and cooked , without ever falling on the side of the raw, but neither in the unpleasant texture of an overcooked egg. It will be for whatever reason, but the truth is that a route through Galicia hunting for the best tortillas can give you a lot of joy, even in the place where you least expect it.
There is where to choose...
BETANZOS: KILOMETER ZERO
Of all the Galician tortillas, only one has created a school: the Betanzos omelette . It is a thin omelette, just over a finger high, slightly curdled and without onions, which has made its name cross borders.
And if Betanzos is the kilometer zero of the Galician omelette, a golden mile of the omelette could not be missing in this town of medieval origin. The narrow Travesía do Progreso welcomes ** Mesón o Pote ** and Miranda House , two of the mythical names of the local tortillería. But not only them. the hidden tavern and Taberna **1931** keep the bar very high. And all in just 70 meters of street length.
Other classic names in the town are the box, surely the dean of the betanceira tortilla, To Tixola and, more recently, sinuous .
Meson or Pot Tortilla
A CORUÑA AND SURROUNDINGS:
Do you want more tortillas from the Betanzos family? A Coruna It is the city to find some at a very high level. And more or less halfway between the two towns, a stone's throw from the Alvedro airport, you will find an authentic local sociological phenomenon: House Manolo .
This restaurant, which is perhaps better known as Or Raxo do Burgo or Manolo do Raxo , because the raxo – the marinated pork loin, diced and sautéed is its specialty – has no sign at the entrance. And even so, it is difficult to find parking nearby and it is not uncommon to have to sign up at the waiting list and queue. It is one of those sites that serves hundreds of customers every day, and it does so thanks to the raxo, yes, but also thanks to a remarkable tortilla that they prepare at the moment , which I personally like more and that with a simple lettuce salad alone justifies the stop.
Already in the center are the classics, those that cannot be missing from any list, such as the one from The Penela wave of Oh Bo and plenty of others worth exploring.
For having, in A Coruña there are even a website which has a ranking with nearly 300 punctuated tortilla skewers. In my case, not to make an endless list, I will keep two: the To Pulpeira de Melide , juicy although not as much as those of Betanzos, and the skewer of the Siboney Coffee , perfect for breakfast. And I add a third: if it comes recommended by a wagtail -that little black and white bird- that for years it has been coming daily to put a few crumbs, can not be bad. I'm talking about the tortilla Pontejos Bar , next to the San Agustín market.
Mesón O'bo omelette
SANTIAGO DE COMPOSTELA
In Santiago reigned, for years, the tortilla de the aunt . After various management changes, however, the original formula ended in the Moha-Rúa Nova , a few meters away, where they continue to serve as a courtesy tapa what is surely the most unconditional omelette in the city.
The other one that will not be missing if you ask someone from Compostela is the Mars , higher and more curdled, but always fresh from the pan and offered with your drink.
A stone's throw from the center, the village of Cacheiras It is one of those that tortilla lovers do not stop mentioning. And there the Armando Blanco restaurant, known as The House of Tortillas , strives to maintain that fame. Just five minutes away, O Fogar do Santiso They make a tender but not runny tortilla, also very tasty. Surely, the use of organic ingredients has something to do with it.
Mother-me-a
And if you're feeling in the mood for an authentic local experience, seek out the tavern O Portuguese , in O Rodiño. This traditional tavern located at a crossroads about 15 minutes from the center of Santiago, which you will reach by turning off the Ourense road towards Vila de Cruces, is anything but touristy. It has preserved the atmosphere like few others and its tortilla is up to par.
RÍAS BAIXAS STYLE TORTILLA:
As we move further south along the coast, the tortillas tend to be cooked a bit more. Creamy yes, juicy, sometimes, but almost always kept on the fire for a few more minutes. A good example is found in The House of the Five Doors, in the heart of Pontevedra, one of those that are never lacking in the rankings and that is always served topped with a sprig of parsley.
In Boiro, in the heart of the Ría de Arousa, the tortilla del Rhodes , one of those unclassifiable places that has been bringing together bar lovers from all over the region for 40 years. Its tortilla, one of those not very high, is perfect to accompany a cold beer (here you have to ask for a gallant , which is what the jar is called) and is served portioned to eat with chopsticks.
The only drawback is that the Rodas is only open from San Juan to San Ramón (from June 24 to August 31), but its always lively atmosphere and its strategic location on the beach road make the wait worthwhile. The lifestyle of the estuary in its purest form.
Vigo, the big city on the south coast, has a few popular tortillas. But if one takes the cake, it will surely be the Bar Carballo . Juicy, flavorful, no frills. It will make you remember why you liked bar tortillas so much.
Another part of the Vigo parish opts for the tortilla skewer from the Cosmos , in the Vello Helmet. A perfect excuse, moreover, to get lost in the neighborhood with the most appetizing tapas bars in the city. Do you need more names? Try the ones from San Amaro , the bar where a good part of the Movida Viguesa was forged, or, if you like the tallest tortillas, the one at The Coral Bar .
INSIDE:
A Ourense you have to go for wines and let yourself go, stroll through its historic center from place to place. Try specialties that are difficult to find in any other city, explore the most modern venues… and leave room for some of their classic tortillas. It's hard to decide here. Surely, the skewer that they serve in the Vella Arch be the most named when you ask. But the one from O Frade , which are usually accompanied with some peppers, is not far behind.
Y Lugo As for everything that has to do with taverns and tapas, it has to be a must stop on the route. Over there, Daniel's Tavern It is famous for its tortillas, of which it has more than a dozen varieties. The potato one is very good, but if you feel like more, try his potato omelette with zorza (the marinated meat with which the chorizos are made) . I'm not a big fan of tortillas with things, but this one deserves an exception.
Another classic among the people of Lugo -perhaps less among visitors, since it is outside the historic center and is one of those places with a not particularly striking appearance- is the haystack , a traditional tavern that has preserved the atmosphere of that old Lugo that is gradually disappearing, and whose omelette is one of those well-kept secrets.
FERROL
We finish the route in Ferrol, the northern city, the great forgotten on so many occasions and so unfairly. And we do it with the tortilla Bacorino , a classic of the city that is the perfect excuse to stroll through the old town, discover the new places that are animating its atmosphere again, go down to the port and its bars and discover the seaside atmosphere of a city full of surprises.
But, even if your Galician route ends here and you have to think about the return, there is always time for one more omelette. If you move along the A-6, the highway that connects the north with the plateau, you still have another tortilla in the chamber. Find kilometer 558, stop at the service area and ask for a ration. No problem.
La Taberna Daniel is known for its tortillas, but we recommend you try their guts.