The Galician octopus raises passions
What we Galicians have with this eight-legged cephalopod is a love story that goes beyond fashion. Because although it is true that almost any other peninsular coastal region dedicates wonderful dishes to it, here it is treated with a passion which leads us to endless debates about the perfect point of cooking (laugh about the Italians and pasta al dente), that hidden tavern who prepares it like no one or the best recipe.
Because, yes, that's another: in Galicia you will only find that which outside is known as Galician octopus in tourist restaurants. Here the cards offer you things like octopus to mugardesa , octopus in stew or octopus style To Illa . And this is our guide to that you always hit when asking for it.
It is said that in these rocky bottoms are the best specimens
** ONS ISLAND **
What better way to start a pulpeiro tour for one of the few inhabited islands of the Galician coast, if only because they say that it is there where, during the winter and on the rocky bottoms, they catch the best specimens.
Here, in addition to the ubiquitous octopus to fair (accompanied by extra virgin olive oil, paprika, coarse salt and nothing more ) you can also try the caldeirada, the quintessential seafood stew, in which the octopus is accompanied by potatoes cooked in their cooking water and a sauce with oil, paprika and a little poached onion.
House Acuna has been preparing it since 1945, when the island was still a long way from becoming a tourist getaway for visitors to the Rías Baixas.
WOW
is the port closest to the island of Ons and perhaps because of that, and because of what we mentioned about the captures of the cephalopod in those waters, it is also one of the mecca of pulpeiros.
The specimens that are auctioned in his fish market are between the most precious of Galicia and, if you are one of those who need to see things with their own eyes to believe them, there is the market , on the esplanade of the port, so that you can be amazed with the amount, size, and hypnotic appearance of this animal as tasty as it is not pretty, as that one said.
The port of Bueu, a mecca for pulperos
But if in addition to seeing you want try and what you want is to continue exploring, take advantage of the visit to the village to order one of the octopus tortillas , a not very common specialty, which they prepare in the centenary Quintela House .
TO ILLA DE AROUSA
Known by its inhabitants as To Illa , simply put, the largest of the Galician islands did not have road connection with the continent until the middle of the 80's . And even though you are barely a couple of kilometers from the coast, which allowed it to be one of the places in the area that has best preserved a own character.
Today A Illa is a summer resort very popular, but even so, the Arousans continue to maintain a particular way of being, linked to sea like few and in which the fishing is of definite importance. For this reason, no visit to the island is complete if you do not visit the pubs from one of the two urban ports to try the local version of the octopus.
The octopus style A Illa is a local adaptation of the caldeirada classic, with its purple dyed potatoes in the water used to cook the animal and its oil with paprika on top. At the port of O Xufre , the main one in the town, you can try it at the restaurant to Mecca while on the south side of the town, the Saratoga bar _(Avenida Castelao, 2) _ is, without a doubt, one of the best options.
TO POOR
Across the estuary, on the peninsula of Or Barbanza , Aguiño takes the fame pulpeira. And it is true that in low that separate the town from the island of Sálvora are captured spectacular specimens and that around the port there are several places that offer a very good octopus à feira.
But if what you want is to keep trying different recipes, the best thing is that you stop about ten kilometers to the north, in A Pobra do Caramiñal , the town in which Inclan Valley wrote some of his best works, and you go to the new bar . This tavern opened its doors more than 50 years, and today it is directed by José, the son of the founders.
Through the hands of this family have passed hundreds of thousands of octopuses throughout these five decades. Therefore, although it sounds curious, when they offer you to try their octopus sandwich with cheese from San Simón da Costa (slightly smoked) the best is to accept.
If they put this sandwich in front of you, it is best to accept
PORTO DO ARE
On the other side of the mountain, looking straight at the Mount Louro (do not forget to go up to the viewpoint of the chapel of To Atalaia ), this small fishing village still has a few places where you can try good fish and shellfish . And it is here where we are going to meet for the first time one of the great dilemmas that divide Galicians.
If the Spaniards can be grouped into those who prefer ** the tortilla with onion ** or those who prefer it without that addition, the Galicians are divided into those who prefer the octopus á feira as it is prepared in the coast and the devotees of the one who cook in inside.
Although it sounds strange, the thing has its history: during the Middle Ages, the octopus, which dried in the wind from the shore, was one of the few marine products that reached the inside from Galicia. And so, while the animal was being prepared in the estuaries cool, the interior got used to working with specimens dehydrated, so that the texture and flavor power of the resulting dishes were very different.
Today, the two areas usually work with frozen octopus (the ice breaks the fibers of the animal and this prevents have to hit them to soften their meat), but there are still two well-differentiated schools of pulpeira cuisine.
The difference: octopuses drying in the sun
it's hard to say which is better, especially since being able to enjoy both versions no need to choose, but it is worth knowing that the two areas take it very seriously and have in the preparation of the octopus one of the signs of identity of which they feel – rightly so – most proud.
Back to Porto do Son and the coastal-style octopus, it is best to head to the port area and look for the Chinto Bar , one of those taverns that maintain the atmosphere of decades ago . Here, in addition to very good bugs fried (small horse mackerel), they prepare one of the best octopuses at fair of the area.
WALLS
On the border between Rias Baixas and the coast of death, Muros has one of the historic centers more interesting from Galicia. And it is also one of the main pulpeiro ports of the Atlantic coast, so the best plan here is to get carried away between its arcades, its alleys and its stairs to look for places like Sampedro House , ** To Adega do Vello ** or the The Dock Bar, in which to try the octopus á feira.
CAMARINES
Already in the heart of Death Coast , Camariñas is one of the visits essentials . To this town, sheltered from the storms by the cliffs of the Cape Vilán and Mount Farelo, It is reached by a winding road that borders spectacular coves with crystal clear waters.
The same happens next to Cereixo , one of them little known gems who deserves one stop to know, for example, the small church, a treasure Romanesque built in a knoll . You can skirt it with a walk that will take you to the mouth of the Rio Grande, next to an old tide mill, to the foot of the Cereixo Towers , of medieval origin.
After the walk, Camarinas appears as the perfect destination. Your fishing fleet is specialized in octopus so it's hard to decide where to stop to try it: ** Bodegón O Percebe , Taberna do Bico , Café Victoria** …
You decide for which you decide, try to organize yourself to arrive on time to enjoy the sunset from the lighthouse Cape Vilan, because there you will understand, finally, what is that of the Coast of Death.
Take some time to watch the sunset
MUGARDS
The octopus capital of the north from Galicia looks directly at ** Ferrol ** from the other side of the estuary. In other times, he was one of the major fishing ports of the Community, whereas today, in the shadow of the shipyards and the military naval base, it is a small town that, yes, has kept a good part of its charm.
Along with that charm, it has also maintained an own octopus recipe, the mugardesa-style octopus, the only one of the traditional Galician preparations in which the pepper it is an essential ingredient. The seafront of the town is full of places where you can try it: ** Asador del Puerto , Bar A Rampa , La Posada del Mar ** …
Mugardos, the octopus capital of northern Galicia
OR CARBALLIÑO
We finish the route with a tour of the octopus triangle , an area in the heart of Galicia bounded by Lugo, Melide and O Carballiño . Precisely the latter is, for many, the pulpeira capital of Galicia (i.e. from universe ) .
It is for several reasons: being located near the oseira monastery , the town became, since the Middle Ages, the point where many of the dried octopus (of which we spoke above) who sent from the coast as lease payment of lands. In fact, even today, many of the best pulpeiras in the country continue to be the village of Arcos, a few minutes from town.
LUGO
The Lugo thing with the octopus is big words. During the festivities of San Froilan, in September, they are dispatched tons of this product. And for the rest of the year, there are dozens of places to try it.
Among the classics, the grocery store ** Catro Rúas , Outes or Aurora do Carballiño ,** next to the bus station stand out. But if you want to try a excellent octopus in a more restaurant atmosphere, the Alberto's Inn , in the heart of historic helmet, it is the perfect place.
MELIDE
This town of Santiago's road marks another of the vertices of the pulpeiro triangle. In just 50 meters, in the Lugo Avenue , you will find the two most popular names: ** A Garnacha and Pulpería Ezequiel .**
Whatever you choose, finish the meal with a coffee and some homemade gingerbreads (a traditional sweet of the town) on the terrace of the Confectionery Style , a few steps later, is more than recommended.
At Pulperías Aurora they have a long tradition preparing this product