Impressive view of the Sanctuary of San Miguel de Aralar.
The smell of wet earth and the sound of a running stream; the intense flavor of its cheeses and the imposing silhouette of a castle at sunset. The breeze of a Bay of Biscay that flies high, twists between trees and mountains and embraces with force even there, in the interior. Sensations that make us travel , albeit with the imagination, to the beautiful Navarre , land rich in all aspects. In it we allow ourselves to be enveloped by a universe whose landscapes constantly mutate: from desert to the foliage of forests , from its green valleys to its historic towns.
We suggest you pack your suitcase and accompany you on a journey that begins here, and now. A route that at the same time are ten versions of this beautiful land , because there are as many faces of Navarra as we want to find. We head to Kingdom of a thousand possibilities keeping in mind two premises: keep your eyes wide open and your heart ready to let yourself be conquered. Although one thing is clear to us: let us choose the Navarra we choose, will mark us forever.
Navarre in green
The Navarre that unfolds further north, bordering on that Cantabrian Sea that can be smelled and felt even inland —where the Pyrenees start—, is led by the Baztan-Zugarramurdi route . This is a land of legends and mysteries, of stories that have been nourished over the centuries by details that are debated among the real and the fantasy . We went to her in search of the Zugarramurdi Caves , where witches and smugglers shaped the idiosyncrasy of the place. Green meadows teeming with cattle appear at every turn; also the beautiful farmhouses: walk the streets of Ziga, Erratzu or Amaiur-Maya they will make us travel in time; feel part of another era.
But there is also room for another type of nature on this route: the one that finds its best ally in art. In the Señorío de Bertiz Natural Park , the hiking routes culminate in a visit to a sculpture garden. If we like the green —and the leafy— we can culminate the experience by approaching the Leurtza reservoirs looking at the beautiful Xorroxin waterfall or soaring through the skies —over green landscapes, of course— in the irisarriland zip lines . We have no doubt: soon we will want more Navarra.
Zugarramurdi
But very close the Aralar-Ultzama route will make our wishes come true. Here comes the moment to feed the soul and the stomach: the shepherds of the **Sierras de Aralar** are cheese experts who make true treasures from the milk of their latxa sheep . After a few bites at a good Idiazabal -and whoever says a few bites, says half a cheese- you will have to burn calories, and what better way to do it than touring the Via Vede del Plazaola : what was once the railway route that linked Pamplona with San Sebastián, today has been transformed into a peaceful path dotted with suggestive postcards.
There is more to this route: much more. Experiences that are authentic gifts for the traveler who dares to enter caves like the one in Mendukilo , or dare to go up to the Roman basilica of San Miguel de Aralar : the views from up there are breathtaking. Immerse yourself in spirituality by passing through its thick walls of Eleventh century it won't hurt either. To compensate, more gastronomy: the one that unfolds in the Ultzama Valley , where between curds and cream tubes, recipes based on boletus and black beans, we will give a good account of the best of feasts.
The Irati jungle is a paradise for beeches, oaks, firs, birches or willows, among other plant species.
And so, with the appetite satisfied and impregnated with nature from head to toe, it's time to talk about another route: that of Irati-Roncesvalles . Although this time we will have to enter the jungle: the Irati jungle, of course, the Europe's largest beech forest . We will put on some good trekking boots and… let's walk! Step by step, little by little, until so much beauty gives us a full-fledged Stendahl Syndrome. Here we will be conquered again, this time by the mysticism that emanates from the very door of the Santiago's road : in Roncesvalles, where the french gothic explodes, many pilgrims begin each year, although what we feel like —we are not going to fool ourselves—, is to stay and live there.
Nature explodes in the Kingdom
And so much so that it is also what makes us fall in love with this land, this time throughout the Urbasa-Andía-Urederra route . We discover the pleasure of getting excited, all of a sudden, in full Urbasa Natural Park , where the source of Urederra , which is reached after crossing magical scenes full of waterfalls and pools of turquoise blue waters, is the protagonist. And the thing is about views here, because it turns out that the most amazing viewpoints await on this trip. Starting with the Lizarraga , going through the Balcony of Ubaba , and ending with the one contemplated next to the Urbasa Palace : Better to bring enough memory and battery for the camera, because it will make us fume.
The source of the river Urederra, a protected natural area.
In domains of star land , it will be time to get your act together: active tourism experiences have an ideal setting here. One of the most tempting routes due to its beauty also starts in this enclave: the one dedicated to Estella and the Santiago's road . An ideal proposal for lovers of art and history that starts from the town itself, where we visit the street , its main street: dotted with splendid palaces and churches, it will be easy to run into pilgrims on their way through its cobbled streets.
Beyond, more wonders: the Iratxe monastery and medieval, Renaissance and Baroque constructions. Surrounded by vineyards, it tempts us — alas! — to taste the wines of the land in a pause. One more incentive to bet on this Navarra? Of course: Queen's Bridge , with its historic bridge, is the place where two branches of the road become the same journey.
The treasures shine in Estella at nightfall.
And if when we talked about wine a few lines ago, your eyes made you wince… we have probably found your place in the world —or at least, in Navarra—. It's about the path Olite-Ujué , in the middle of the Reyno, where the vineyards offer a landscape of more mesmerizing . We stop at one of their wineries —ahem, there was no doubt, right?— to see what this land tastes like, and if there is room left, visit the Wine Museum.
Then we will reach one of the most impressive enclaves: the olive castle , with its imposing profile well drawn on the horizon, makes it clear that this is not just any castle. With the Gothic showing off its elegance, we discover the town that surrounds it to continue on our way to ujué , according to what they say —and we attest—, one of the towns most beautiful in Spain . The best of destiny? Their sanctuary-fortress of Santa Maria and the views: from here we will have the Ribera and the Pyrenees at our mercy.
The impressive fortress of Olite, at sunset.
Between deserts, valleys and gorges
And now yes: we change the scene, we change the scene. Can you imagine what it must be like to travel through the landscapes of the largest desert in Europe ? Well, don't imagine: because in Navarra this is also possible. We talk about the Royal Bardenas , And although it sounds contradictory —because it is—, our next proposal, the route Tudela-Bardenas , combines in the same destination the most arid landscape and the richest in vegetation. We start by going through the Bardenas Reales Natural Park and Biosphere Reserve , which shocks and captivates in equal parts. Its eroded formations have been the scene of all kinds of filming and recording and it is not for less: they seem from another world.
A landscape from another world, in Navarra: the Bardenas Reales.
However, not far away life sprouts again in a big way. We talk about Tudela , where the richest and most flavorful vegetables are grown. We will have to sit down at the table, but also take a walk to discover its most monumental legacy: squares, palaces or religious buildings such as the St Anne's Cathedral they are a must. The pleasure of simply strolling through its medieval streets allows us to discover the heart of one of the most important cities of Islamic origin in Spain . To finish the route? Fitero , where we find his spectacular monastery and the thermal waters of its spa, of more than a hundred years of history.
And we ascend again on the map —and in the orography— in search of more attractions. Like the ones offered by Leyre-Javier-Sangüesa route . Here is the Sierra de Leyre the one that welcomes us, and it does so with a clear message: lovers of culture, prepare to enjoy. First stop? The Leyre monastery , where the Gregorian chants of its Benedictine monks are the best —and most beautiful— soundtrack. When we come to realize it, we will have traveled again, this time in space and time, crossing the drawbridge of the historical Xavier's Castle , home of the patron saint of the Navarrese. But El Reyno is served with beauty, and we verified it once again in places like Saguenza or little towns like Aíbar either Gallipienzo . If the world is ending, leave us here.
The Rural Hotel Heredad Beragu, in Gallipienzo, is a mandatory stop.
But no: the Kingdom continues to tempt us, and we have no choice but to let ourselves go. Because on the way Roncal-Lumbier Navarre conquer us again. And she does it with her Pyrenean landscapes, which are delivered in valleys like the one in Larra-Belagua —the only Navarrese of glacial origin— or that of Roncal , which concentrates in its seven towns all the charm of the universe. Then it will be time to go down to the entrails: a hiking route through the Green Way of Irati will lead us between throats and most special pictures to the Foz de Lumbier , while from the top of the Foz de Arbayoun , we will watch the vultures conquer the sky. Can you ask for something more?
A hiking trail through the imposing Foz de Arbaiun canyon?
And finally... the capital
And so far the most natural Navarra, the green and rural that already has us in love. It's time to get to know the more urban side of the Reyno, but he makes it very easy for us: Pamplona It has absolutely everything to catch us from now on. Because here they converge culture, architecture, history, gastronomy and tradition . And where to start? Well, perhaps touring his Old Town , where Pamplona vibrates and is lived at 100%. Stop at its historic businesses, visit its cathedral, see its art galleries and museums and finish at the Castle plaza : there is the Cafe Iruna and there is no better place to rest.
Although to Pamplona too he is going to eat , that the Navarrese in gastronomy —we already know— do not mess around with little girls. And here, what is styled, is go for pintxos : in the center, on the streets Estafeta, San Nicolás or Comedias , the terraces bustle with activity. Then it will touch a little more history: the one that its medieval walls tell us, of which they are conserved… 5 kilometers! But if there is something that identifies the capital of the Kingdom, that is his universal festival. And to enter the world of San Fermin nothing like cheering up with a guided route with which to visit its most important enclaves. This is how we will warm up for 2022. Why return to Navarra… it is clear that we will return.
From the Mesón del Caballo Blanco you can enjoy the best views of Pamplona.