Matarraña: 'slow' mode activated
Once upon a time there was a place guarded by towering mountains and sheltered by forests of pines, olive trees, oaks and almond trees.
A place where life has its own rhythm, a calm rhythm, to the beat of nature and the seasons. Here, the soundtrack is provided by crickets, owls, the lullaby of the wind and the murmur of the river.
At nightfall, the brightness of the stars captures all eyes, without any obstacle that dares to stand between the limits of the human and the divine.
No, this is not the beginning of a fairy tale, princesses and dragons. It's real, and it's much closer than you think. Welcome to Matarraña, the definitive confirmation that beauty is within.
Matarraña: beauty is within
THE SECRET JEWEL OF BAJO ARAGÓN
Located in the province of Teruel, the Matarraña region is made up of 18 localities headed by Valderrobres, the capital.
The total population does not reach nine thousand inhabitants, but that figure refers to the official census, since People from all over come to this corner to find their little haven of peace.
The Matarraña River is the one that gives its name to the territory, dotted with waterfalls, natural pools, hiking and biking trails, farmland that sustains the surrounding cuisines, and picturesque villages where you can fall in love with the bucolic charm of the countryside.
There are no hotels here – we cannot call the unique accommodations scattered around the area that way – but imposing farmhouses whose walls house stories from centuries ago, charming little houses where you can read in the warmth of the fireplace and convents converted into shelters where you can forget about the world.
The perfect rural getaway has its own name, Matarraña , and here we propose some plans to enjoy a perfect weekend of disconnection, nature and above all and above all, absolute calm.
The panoramic view offered by the Torre del Marqués hotel
FRIDAY
4:00 p.m. The landscape begins to change as we approach the Matarraña. The green begins to be more intense, the mountains surprise us at the end of each curve and the pollution literally disappears completely.
Roll down the windows and enjoy the intense aroma of the pine trees, the sound of the birds and the fresh air filling your lungs. Leave the watch in the glove compartment, you won't need it.
Our first stop is, of course, the place where we are going to sleep this weekend, Torre del Marqués, an 18th-century farmhouse converted into a luxury hotel that has just opened its doors in Monroyo.
A luxury getaway in the heart of Matarraña
This new Small Luxury Hotels project is the first five stars in the region and the perfect place to activate the slow mode and let yourself go. It has 18 rooms, an outdoor heated pool all year round, a spa, a restaurant and an atmosphere where past and present go hand in hand without skimping on details.
“The building has undergone many renovations throughout its history and what we did was dismantle it from the inside, removing the most recent layers and keeping the most authentic. In short, we have preserved their scars”, explains Óscar García, owner of the Torre del Marqués hotel.
Sustainable both in construction and in operation, The farmhouse has been rehabilitated using materials from the area and on its walls we discover the traditional tapial technique. The energy is obtained through solar panels and biomass boilers.
One of the suites of the Hotel Torre del Marqués
4:00 p.m. After check-in at the Torre del Marqués hotel, we embarked on our first adventure through the Matarraña: the excursion to the Parrizal de Beceite, a beautiful and simple route that ascends the river along ravines, limestone rock walls, caves, cave paintings and sections of walkways over crystal clear waters.
We meet in Beceite with Onofre, our guide the company Senda, which organizes active and cultural tourism activities throughout the region. If you go on your own, you should know that to access the parking and the place you need a ticket that you can buy at the Beceite Tourist Office.
We leave the car in the last parking lot and follow Onofre for 800 meters along a path where as we go, we will find the most curious corners such as the amazing Cova de la Dona, a diagonal cavity excavated in the rock and with the cave paintings of Fenellassa.
When we see a footbridge, it will mean that we have reached the beginning of the Parrizal de Beceite Route, which covers 6 kilometers (round trip) and can be completed in two or three hours.
Parrizal Straits
Thus, we will continue ascending the Matarraña River along trails and footbridges, admiring limestone caves, underground rivers and greeting the occasional mischievous otter or listening in the distance to the queen of the place, the Hispanic goat.
Among the vegetation, stands out the native tree (the holm oak), the boxwood, the maple and the three different varieties of pine that happen as we go up.
Near the source of the river, we will arrive at the Parrizal straits, a natural spectacle with a 60-meter-high gorge and a minimum width of only 1.5 m in some sections. Don't worry, its access is simple and suitable for all audiences.
One of the most striking things about this incredible landscape is undoubtedly the color of the water, totally crystal clear in some sections –where the bottom of the river can be perfectly appreciated–, and turquoise and emerald tones in others. Yes, they make you want to dive in without thinking about it, but don't be in a hurry, the natural pools await us around the corner.
7:00 p.m. A swim in a natural pool? Of course! Well okay, the coldest can splash around on the shore and get their feet wet. We're going to the natural pools of La Pesquera, a series of pools (tolls) formed by the Uldemó River up to its confluence with the Matarraña.
To get there, just follow the directions from the town of Beceite and after about 3 kilometers we find the first pool, the Toll de l'Olla. Close your eyes and let the blackbirds and the water lull you to sleep.
Ascending the Matarraña River
10pm For dinner, it is not necessary to go very far, because in the town of Beceite our table awaits us in Solfa Factory.
This former paper mill converted into a hotel houses one of the most beautiful –and secret– corners of Matarraña: a private terrace overlooking the river and a restaurant where you can try typical dishes of the area such as fesols de Beseit, native white beans with important health benefits that have been on the verge of disappearing.
Its menu, which changes with the season, features delicious protagonists such as **the black truffle, the D.O. Teruel, mushrooms, galley, lamb or cod. Have dessert on the terrace. **
It is time to return to the Torre del Marqués to gaze at the stars from their gardens Until sleep catches us.
Views from the Solfa Factory, in Beceite
SATURDAY
10 a.m. The sun's rays enter through the window announcing a new day in the Matarraña. You open the window and oh, surprise, a green carpet at your feet reminds you that you have woken up in paradise. The birds also seem to have woken up and in the shower, the aroma of the Natura Bissé amenities makes you want May this escapade last forever.
In the conservatory restaurant, a freshly brought breakfast from the nearby orchards awaits you, in a unique enclave from which you can see the Puertos de Beceite area and the Tastavins river valley.
Fresh cheese, natural yogurt, scrambled eggs, fresh rolls from the oven and homemade pear, apricot and cherry jam These are just some of the options offered by the Torre del Marqués to start the day full of energy.
The kilometer zero reigns in the hotel restaurant
11 a.m. we head to Valderrobres , where we met with Antonio, from the Patrimonial Valderrobres Foundation , who is going to show us all the wonders that he hides this picturesque medieval town, capital of the region and member of the association of the most beautiful towns in Spain.
“This area has always been a transit area, since it is halfway between the sea and the interior, between Valencia and Zaragoza, and that is what has historically marked the place”, explains Antonio.
“The language we speak here is a variant of Catalan and no one agrees on what to call it – he continues telling us – although It is popularly known as Chapurriau.
Stone Bridge, Valderrobres
We get lost in the streets of Valderrobres until we reach the stone bridge, from which we climb to the impressive castle from the 14th century, one of the main fortresses of the Gothic era that exists in Aragon and declared a National Monument.
Forming an indissoluble unit with the castle, stands the church of Santa María la Mayor, declared an Asset of Cultural Interest, whose third section, demolished since the 19th century, was rebuilt in its entirety –works that ended in 2009– and a complete restoration of the temple was also carried out, which today is a benchmark of Gothic in our country.
After enjoying the views of the valley from the top of the castle and browsing inside the museum, We return to the car, it's time to regain strength for the great plan that awaits us this afternoon.
Views from the Castle of Valderrobres
2pm Today we eat at Mas de la Costa, where we are received by Christian and Françoise, the married couple who own this four-star accommodation with 15 rooms where, wherever you look, you find the beautiful landscape of the Puertos de Beceite.
The farmhouse still retains the original door from 1804 and the interior is decorated with love and care, so that guests feel as comfortable as in their own home: reading in the library, pouring your own glass of wine in the cellar or eating in what was once the stables.
In front of the Mas de la Costa restaurant is chef Facundo Salas, who is committed to Mediterranean cuisine with French influences and the occasional nod to his homeland, Argentina.
The flavor prevails over all things in each of the dishes, made with fresh and seasonal products, many of them taken from their own garden. The menu changes every night and dinners under the stars always end looking at the sky through Christian's telescope.
More of the Coast
6pm The plan for the afternoon is on pedals and through landscapes that will leave you breathless – in a good way. For this we count again on Senda, which she has prepared for us a bike route along the Vía Verde Val de Zafán, the old railway line that linked Alcañiz with Tortosa, now converted into a cycling route.
Is about a simple layout suitable for all audiences, full of contrasts and corners where you can enjoy the outdoors.
With the river Ebro as the backbone, the Vía Verde will take us through bridges, aqueducts, tunnels, reconstructed old stations such as Aldover and Benifallet and a multitude of beautiful enclaves.
8pm Back at the Torre del Marqués and after a dip in the pool, she has to let herself be surprised by the chef Emmanuel Gustavo and the friendly waiter Guillermo Durán.
We start by opening our mouths in the best possible way, dipping bread in Diezdedos oil, an extra virgin olive oil produced by hand on the Vall de Ballestera estate, located in the nearby municipality of Cretas , where the olives from which this extraordinary oil is born are grown and harvested, which will be a sensory experience on our palate, in addition to providing multiple benefits to the body.
Vall de Ballestera estate, where the extraordinary Diezdedos oil is born
But let's continue, this has only just begun. After giving a good account of a delicious plate of ham from Teruel D.O. –with crystal bread and tomato, of course–, before our eyes we are presented with the absolute star of the place: Ternasco de Aragón cooked in the oven at a low temperature for 14 hours. A delicacy accompanied by purple potatoes, shallot and green mustard foam.
For dessert? We let ourselves be advised and tried the 85% chocolate coulant with hazelnut ice cream and toasted almond crumble.
10pm One more night, we delight in the sky that Matarraña gives us, accompanied by the song of the crickets, the flight of a couple of bats that do not want to miss the show and the occasional fox fleeing up the hill through the bushes. Oh heavens, how we're going to miss him back in the big city.
Ternasco de Aragón: an authentic delicacy
SUNDAY
11 a.m. It's Sunday, and after the hiking route in Parrizal and yesterday's pedaling, Today it's time to relax. Therefore, after having breakfast in one of the hotel's outdoor corners, We decided to reserve an hour for ourselves in the spa – yes, it can be privatized so that the client can enjoy this wonder in privacy.
We also let ourselves be pampered by Ana Belén, a manual and energy therapist whose hands have been visiting spas, yoga schools, ayurveda centers and hotels for more than 20 years: from the resort of Lanjarón to a school in the north of India, passing through India, Tulum and now, her homeland.
With her muscles totally relaxed, her body full of mountain air and her mind in a state of disconnection like she hadn't been in a long time, We finished this magnificent weekend in which we lost the coverage, but we won two unforgettable days in one of the most beautiful corners of our country – to which we will not hesitate to return very soon.
The spa at the Hotel Torre del Marqués
The starry sky of Matarraña