The mythical Guerlain house, on the Champs-Elysées
Born in Egypt associated with the elaborate funerary rites of the pharaohs, the Greeks considered it a gift of Venus , and the Arabs and Romans perfected the techniques of the azmicles and expanded the olfactory palette with multiple oriental essences. But it was France who under the reign of Louis XV would capitalize on the emerging perfume industry and it would be in Paris, where immortal fragrances like Chanel No. 5, Shalimar by Guerlain either Miss Dior would make women dream of the whole world.
I'm not much into perfumes, I admit it, I don't mind putting on the current sample from Vogue magazine, that a few drops of a forgotten jar in the back of the closet, a gift from an old boyfriend, or directly out with nothing more than the fresh smell of the recent shower. surely not even the poet Paul Valery author of the phrase "A woman without perfume is a woman without a future" or Coco Chanel for whom any elegant woman had to put on a few drops of perfume before going out, they would be very happy with me . But it is precisely by writing this article, strolling through the shops of the great perfumers, opening the bottles of essences of the Maison Fragonnard and rediscovering the Eau de Cologne 4711 , indissoluble aroma of my childhood, when I understood the ultimate goal of a perfume. In the words of P.Serra , who could not have said it better, perfumes are: “Guardians of a time gone by (…) , few things have such a human soul (…) . Without speaking, without seeing, they manage to express ideas, places, personalities , encouragement, (and above all) memories”. So from today I start looking for one fragrance that identifies me, the one that one day opens for someone a jar full of memories.
Interior of the Osmothèque, an almanac of perfumes
A little history: The Perfume Museum Two steps from the Garnier opera , in the mansion where she once lived Mary Callas We found this little museum. Opened in 1983 by the family Fragonnard (one of the most renowned lineages of French perfumery), this interesting collection is a journey through the 3,000 years of perfumery , from the stills used in ancient Egypt to the labels and bottles of the last century. In one of the rooms the visitor is encouraged to try their olfactory abilities through endless essences. Attention to the traditional furniture of the perfumer containing hundreds of azmicles and a scale of millimeter precision. It is the so-called 'organ', alluding to the master's abilities to create perfumes in the same way that a musician composes his symphony. Really beautiful.
Open Monday to Saturday from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. (free admission) 9, Rue de Scribe.
The Mythical Houses of the Perfumers The visit begins with the Guerlain House at number 68 of the Elysian Fields , considered the oldest perfume house established in Paris (although the original was located on Rue Rivoli). In 1853 Empress Eugenia granted Pierre Francois Pascal Guerlain the title of 'Her Majesty's Perfumer' in recognition of the creation of the Eau de Cologne Impériale, a fragrance that Guerlain had conceived especially for her. Step into this lavish store and be sure to smell the famous imperial cologne, as well as Jicky (created in 1889 and the favorite of Brigitte Bardot), Shalimar (1925) or vol de night (1928), perfumes that marked the beginning of the 20th century.
You will also be able to hold an Atelier with brand experts in which you will discover the secrets of the most exclusive perfumery as well as learning to create your own fragrance.
Place Vendôme, Parisian paradise of luxury
We got to the Place Vendome , the true epicenter of Parisian luxury and sophistication, to find two shops that are absolute references in the history of perfume, Annick Goutal and Frederic Malle (both in the Rue Castiglione ), contemporary high perfumery brands whose philosophy is that the price must be inside the bottle and not in advertising. And already in the same square, impossible to miss the Amin Kader boutique, exclusive distributor of perfumes Santa Maria Novella in Paris.
And of course, we could not forget on our tour the flagship boutique of the Chanel house since 1910, in the number 19 Rue Cambon , to evoke the history of the most famous perfume of all time, Chanel No. 5 , created by Ernest Beaux . In the year 1924, Coco Chanel she would select Sample #5 of the fragrances Beaux had shown her. The 5 would become the fetish number of the designer who always presented her collections the 5th day of the 5th month . As part of the legend surrounding the immortal fragrance, they say that when the official presentation of audrey tattoo as her new muse, she received it by chance at the hotel where she was staying in New York, room 55 . Take the opportunity to discover the series The Exclusives , sold, as its name indicates, exclusively in this store or the latest perfume created by the great lady, Chanel No.19 baptized with her date of birth, August 19.
Interior of Coco Chanel's apartment at 19 Rue Cambon
In search of the lost aroma, Osmothèque We leave Paris address Versailles to visit a unique museum in the world, the Osmothèque, an institution responsible for collecting and preserving the creations of world perfumery. In 1988 several perfumers decided to create this conservatory of aromas with the aim of reconstructing the formula of perfumes lost in the memory of time or already discontinued and preserve those others 'still alive' on the market.
A total of 1,800 formulas, of which 400 no longer exist, make up this paradise of memories and scents where you can smell the perfume she used Marie Antoinette (recreated in 2007 by scientists and historians) and hopefully even the fragrance she wore your grandmother and that you never found again. The Osmotheque organizes visits almost every Wednesday and other days on request.
Create your custom perfume Surely with so many fascinating stories about perfume you have wanted to buy one or why not, which is already one of the most fashionable trends among women. celebrities , create your own fragrance. In Paris there are many options, here are two suggestions:
** L'Artisan Parfumeur ** (2, rue de l'Almiral-de-Coligny) . With the help of the "nez" Stephanie Bakouche Koudiri you can design your own perfume in 3 hours and a half. After a theoretical explanation and the presentation of a palette with the different olfactory families we launch into creation. Final touch of the expert and realization of a personalized label. All for 370 euros (in a group 185 euros).
Stephanie DeBruijn (52 rue de l’Université) Possibility of developing a high perfumery fragrance centered on the personality of the person who creates it. For this you will need up to four meetings and three to six months to achieve that very personal aroma that best defines you.
At L'Artisan Parfumeur you can create your own perfume
Perfume Curiosities - The first perfume made with business purposes dating from the fourteenth century, known as queen water name given by its creator, the Italian John Maria Farina , who in 1709 settled in the then city of the Prussian empire Cologne.
- The oldest fragrance in the world is Eau de Cologne 4711 , created in 1796. Among the celebrities who used it figure Napoleon I and his beloved Josephine de Beauharnais.
- Paul Poiret , the creator of haute couture, was the first to associate a fragrance with a fashion house, Parfums de Rosine.
- The first masculine fragrances arise from 1950.
- Every six seconds a bottle of beer is sold somewhere in the world. Chanel No. 5.
For those interested in knowing more about the history of perfumes, I recommend 'Marie Antoinette's Perfumer' by Elisabeth de Feydeau, which tells the story of perfumery and other associated trades -like the glove shop or the hat shop- and the trajectory of a progressive man of trade, witness and actor of a fascinating era.
You can also review the monuments erected to beauty.