Minimalism BoBo (meaning hipster) on Saturne
Here are some clues -and a handful of addresses- so you don't miss out on the best of gastrohipster Paris, or gastro 'BoBo' as the Parisians would call it...
THE TRACKS OF THE 'BOBO'
1.The term bistronomy it was coined by the journalist Sebastian Demorand. Parisian urban cuisine that takes refuge in small gastronomic bistros - many in second-class neighborhoods - where young chefs try to democratize haute cuisine.
two. Make no mistake! In Paris, informality and democratization are not synonymous with low cost. It is difficult for the average price to drop below 45 euros. Of course, compared to the €300 it costs to eat in a three-star hotel, this is a bargain… The table will not have a tablecloth, the napkins will be paper and the wine will be served in Duralex glasses.
3. The natural public are (bohemian bourgeois) Parisians and the new hipsters . Although they seem the same they are not, but both coexist happily in this disheveled limes that do not admit labels.
Four. Getting a table is very, very difficult . It is essential to book weeks in advance and reconfirm to avoid surprises.
5. British punctuality , nothing to arrive half an hour later. If you are 10 minutes late, you lose your turn and, in the worst case, the table.
6. in most there is only menu , without many options to choose from… the chef rules. Some have a menu, or a proposal of market dishes. The finicky and finicky ones who refrain, it is likely that there will be sweetbreads, cod, game.
7. If you don't drink biodynamic wines you are lost . In the menu of these places you will not find any commercial label, any well-known winery. They are all small producers, cult winemakers. So the best thing is that you let yourself be advised and make sure of the price.
8. The waiters will treat you like a criminal, sparing your life for every question you ask them. When they see that you are a tourist it will be worse. Pay them with the same currency and don't let yourself be cornered . The Parisian BoBos are amused by this attitude, if you get the point, you still love it.
9. The hipster subculture claims vintage. In the kitchen too. You will enjoy it with tubs, pâtés in a puff pastry crust, poultry in a cocotte and the like. Traditional French recipes “revisited”. Luckily there are many Japanese in the kitchens and the point of the fish has improved. Now they are served juicy and not made a scourer.
Rino: the restaurant that looks like a university canteen
THE ESSENTIALS
septime
Bohemian loft, noisy and not very comfortable, with Scandinavian touches, and an open kitchen. Full of charm. Dishes with feeling, somewhat naive, tasty and well executed. Bertrand Grebaut , an outstanding student of Passard and Robuchon puts the diners in his pocket. Vegetables and pure flavors predominate. Each ingredient tastes like what it should taste like . Reduced menu, lunch menu at ridiculous prices and unusual wines that you want to try. My favorite.
80 rue de Charonne. District 11. Menu: €26. Medium P: €55
saturn
Behind the discreet door, a space, dressed in wood, stone and iron, under a glass dome, something Spartan. It has been made fashionable by Parisian bloggers and foodies. Menu and winery compete for success, as the sign on the facade says "Saturn, table and cellar". Behind the stove, Sven Chartier prepares Zen dishes, with no more than three ingredients, well treated. Light and simple compositions. The menu becomes a continuous surprise.
17 Rue Notre-Dame-des-Victoires Paris 2nd District. Average price €45.
Neither the presentation is conventional
the bigarade
From the minimalist room with apple-green walls, you can watch chef Chistophe Pele cook with his brigade, while listening to the conversation of your neighbors at the table. By the makings of your kitchen La bigarrade is more than just a bistro (already has two Michelin stars) and is on its way to becoming one of the reference places in Paris. But in the meantime, this brilliant student of Gagnaire continues to offer pleasure to his clients at a modest price. He loves simple products such as fresh cod, cauliflower, mackerel... He bets on clear and intense flavors. His decks are well built, one more example of his technical solidity. Among his proposals, San Pedro fish in tomato sauce with smoked aubergines , lemon cream with chili and parsley flower or mackerel with Japanese radish and yuzu.
106 Rue Nollet. District 17. Tel.: +33 1 42 26 01 02. Average price €40
rhino
So discreet, it looks like a university dining room, nothing to do with the Parisian grandeur. The young chef of Italian origin Giovanni Passerini prepares “poor cuisine” dishes with an unusual grace. Market cuisine that changes every day according to the ingredients and the inspiration of the chef. Pasta, rice and gnocchi guaranteed. Tiny portions and too slow service for a bistro.
46 Rue Trousseau. District 12. Tel.: 33 1 48 06 95 85.
But the food is nothing college
I will see you I flew
A 1950s eatery . Tables without tablecloths, uncomfortable chairs, the smell of food throughout the room and full to bursting, always. The impertinent waiters, for a change. traditional french cuisine , no more, but done with grace and precision. Magnificent terrines and offal dishes. The fish at its point and the wonderful bread. For dessert, an apple crumble... you won't be able to stop eating. Wines by the glass that are served in ridiculous catavinos. things of paris.
67 Rue de Lancry District 10. Average price €40 Le Dauphine
It is the last place of the Basque-French chef Iñaki Azpitarte and Fred Pennau , the owners of the famous Chateubriand. Arouses hatred and passions alike , but it's always on chefs' lists of favorites. White marble walls and bar, a space with straight and pure lines, signed by the architect Rem Koolhas (Pritzker 2000). A good selection of wines by the glass and cuisine with a French soul to the taste of the 21st century. Terrific foie-gras terrine, veal blanquette, escargots with Iberian juice and lemon tart. At noon, unbeatable price menu ; at night, tapas to share.
131 avenue Parmentier. District 11. Menu €17. Medium P: €35
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Terrace of Le Dauphine