You will be attracted by the morbidity of Chernobyl, you will stay to discover kyiv
Most of the visitors who come to Kyiv they do it motivated by the dark tourism of the Chernobyl nuclear plant and its surroundings, which is why the underrated capital of **Ukraine** still enjoys the charm of being an undiscovered destination. Perhaps this is due to its meager tourist promotion, reflected in the scarce hotel offer that slowly begins to expand, or to the state, between retro and decadent, of museums such as Chernobyl.
The magic of kyiv is in discovering it from ignorance. Feeling like the only foreigner visiting its corners full of art , taste succulent dinners at very affordable prices and delve into the history through its most notable buildings.
The surprises will be so many that 48 hours will end up falling short.
The surprises will be so many that 48 hours will end up falling short
DAY 1: EVENING RECONNAISSANCE WALK
After settling into the ** hotel Aloft ,** we began to explore the city with the intention of making it our own. Losing ourselves in its streets we will discover numerous parks and sculptures as part of the urban furniture (lampposts that come to life, benches to sit on with some very peculiar companions) .
Besarabsky It will be the first point to mix with local life. It is one of those markets in which it is still possible to feel its origins of early 20th century and walk among the color of its flowers and fruits. The most offered product among its stalls is the caviar, one of the best in the world.
In front of the market we will enter the ** Pinchuk Art Center ,** an important exhibition space that brings together international contemporary artists. The curious and disconcerting art gallery has a special corner to enjoy the views of the city, the Sky Art cafe located on the top floor.
In just two steps we reach the busiest avenue in kyiv, Khreshchatyk. Here we can spend time shopping at international brand stores and shopping malls located on the ground floor of its elegant buildings.
Among the shopping centers stands out Bci Cboï for only offering products from local designers. The popular store is divided between two establishments on both sides of the street, one for clothes and accessories and the other dedicated to furniture and decoration.
The Besarabsky Market, ideal for mingling with local life
walking up the street Prorizna, perpendicular to Khreshchatyk, the Golden Door is our next stop, one of the oldest buildings in kyiv that it was part of the defensive wall in the 11th century.
In the corner of the square, we can caress the feline Panteleymón to attract luck, a sculpture in honor of a beloved neighborhood cat who died in a fire.
The elegant building Ukrainian National Opera , just five minutes away, awaits us. It is advisable book tickets in advance to enjoy a ballet or an opera and vibrate with its wonderful acoustics.
Before returning to the hotel, we passed in front of the University _(Volodymyrska Street, 60) _ to see his symbolic building painted red by order of Tsar Nicholas I as a result of student protests during the First World War.
We will make dinner in Fish & Pussycat _(Basejna vul. 5B) _, a curious restaurant in which we can accompany with cocktails the succulent fish dishes.
After this first lineup, we are now fully integrated into Ukrainian life.
A woman contemplates the Opera building
DAY 2: UNDER GOLDEN DOMES
The color gold outlines the Ukrainian capital, that of the domes of the churches (Cathedral of Santa Sofía, Monastery of the Caves, San Miguel,…), color to which we will dedicate today's day. But the golden city is not only because of the magnetism of the domes of its churches. Also for its cultural atmosphere, which transforms kyiv into an unexpected whirlwind of life.
After a hearty breakfast at the hotel, the day begins at the St. Michael's Golden-Domed Monastery , which can be reached on foot. We will choose to do it cable car ascending to Vladimir Hill.
From the beautiful station, located next to the Poshtova ploshcha metro stop, we reach the park Vladimirskaya Gorka, one of the hills that surround kyiv and from which we will directly enter the monastery. The exterior, in shades of white and pastel blue, it is of baroque style; while the interior retains the byzantine style of its beginnings.
It was built between 1713 and 1760, although it had to be rebuilt after the independence of Ukraine, since Soviet troops destroyed it in the 1930s. We can also enter it from a front door that overlooks Mykhailivs'ka square.
after visiting we will return to the park to rest before the unbeatable views of the Dnieper River on its way to the Black Sea. Vladimirskaya Gorka acts as one of the most impressive viewpoints of the city, and some astrologers think it is a magical place. The gigantic statue of Saint Vladimir facing the river, on the right side of the park, is its most famous enclave.
St. Michael's Golden-Domed Monastery
If we cross the bridge, designed with some vertiginous transparent sections, we will arrive at the Arch of Friendship of Nations, a huge monument that was made in 1982 to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the USSR. In 2017, during the celebration of the Eurovision Song Contest in the city, was renamed the Diversity Arc.
Then in the Khreshchatyk Street, receives us the Independence Square, great protagonist of the orange revolution of 2004 and in which all the important events are celebrated.
Later, in the Bodgan Hmelninsky Square , presided over by the sculpture of the leader who ended Polish rule in the 17th century, we find the Saint Sophia Cathedral, next stop on our golden route.
This cathedral was built in 1037 to rival that of Constantinople, and many equate its beauty. The most noteworthy buildings in the complex are the Bell Tower and the Church, with Byzantine paintings and mosaics and a beautiful dome through which light enters.
Hagia Sophia has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1990 and its tower, 76 meters high, one of the national symbols and an essential visit. It was built between 1699 and 1706 dominating the upper city of kyiv in front of Saint Michael of the Golden Domes.
The famous tower of the Saint Sophia Cathedral
The restaurant Korchma Taras Bulba , a 10-minute walk away, will be the ideal place to recharge your batteries and taste traditional ukrainian food in a very authentic place.
With renewed energy we are ready to continue with today's next visit, which is, no less than 105.5 meters below ground. We have reached the Arsenalda station, one of the deepest in the world.
From here we will walk to the Monastery of the Caves, a set of Orthodox churches built in the 17th century. The most attractive of the place are underground galleries or catacombs, lit by candles, in which mummified monks rest who built the sanctuaries.
If we still have strength and time, we can visit the Museum of the Patriotic War, dedicated to World War II and the Alley of the Heroic Cities.
To end the day, we suggest trying the hotel's cocktails and get carried away by the rhythms of the kievite night.
DAY 3: LIVING kyiv
Stairs lead up to the Church of San Andrés, another of the Baroque vestiges of Imperial Russia. Located on a hill above the Dnieper River, it infects all cameras with charm. Behind the cathedral, a path leading into the western part of Vladimirskaya Gorka Park is occupied by painters who exhibit their paintings in improvised stalls in the open air.
Church of San Andres
In the Andriivskiy street , which descends in front of San Andrés to the lower part of the city, the Podil area, we will find more art in the shops and galleries of the old buildings. We can also visit one of the most characteristic places in kyiv, a market where military objects, tourist t-shirts with macabre messages from Chernobyl, old cameras and matryoshka dolls of various themes are sold.
That the market does not distract us from the most beautiful district of kyiv, Vozdvizhenka. A set of colored buildings that look like dollhouses surrounded by parks and lots of street art. Facades and passageways decorated with the most vivid canvases will capture all our attention.
Just behind, and camouflaged at the intersection of Vladimirskaya and Bolshaya Zhytomirskaya streets, is the Landscape Alley park or Corridor of Landscapes, but we prefer to leave it for the end.
A large Ferris wheel reveals another very different part of the city. Low houses, small shops and fruit and vegetable markets define Podil. here the restaurant mom tomorrow will be chosen to fill the stomach of Georgian delicacies. As soon as we enter, the kitchen open to diners makes us drool with the dishes that parade through it. We want to try them all.
With a full stomach we set course to 1 Khoryva Avenue to visit the Chernobyl Museum. Some of the vehicles used during the evacuation of the catastrophe are exhibited at its gates. The decadent image of its interior takes us directly to the night of April 26, 1986. Photographs, letters, newspapers, objects belonging to those who lived through the tragedy and even the uniforms worn by the heroes who were going to their deaths without knowing it make visitors shudder.
We return to the hidden Landscape Alley, a playground inspired by Alice in Wonderland so photogenic that it looks like one of those trendy places made for instagramers. Here we will spend time with the Cheshire cat, the White rabbit and the perspectives of the most photogenic neighborhood in kyiv. Or rather, time will have passed us by... Goodbye, plane back!
Landscape Alley