Jandia Natural Park.
Camera –and surfboard– at the ready, Cadiz photographer Víctor Bensusi invites us on a very personal (and analogical) tour of Fuerteventura, the island of calm, in search of waves, sunsets lulled by the sound and aromas of the sea, fishing villages with unspoiled charm and unhurried siestas and with the best views.
The first of the Canary Islands to emerge from the Atlantic is Biosphere Natural Reserve and boasts lunar landscapes and wild beaches (specifically it has 77, ranging from volcanic sand to the finest white). Leave the stress, take out the map or the GPS and join us for these essential directions that it proposes to us, the landscapes to record on the retina are guaranteed.
Cactus on the cliffs of Cofete beach.
WE STARTED IN THE SOUTH
WHAT TO SEE
Cofete Beach: Undoubtedly one of the most spectacular on the island. It is accessed by a dirt road that goes past Morro Jable and that we will have to follow for about 8 km. At first it seems easy, but then it becomes more rocky, full of curves and without guard rails. The good thing is that at the highest point of the route is a viewpoint that will make all that dusty stretch worthwhile. Before us stretch miles of virgin beach and crystal clear waters protected by imposing mountains before which one feels as lucky as insignificant.
Punta Jandia Lighthouse: In the middle of the road that leads to Cofete there is a fork towards the Jandía peninsula, a magical corner where you can enjoy coves with very few people, sunsets that make your hair stand on end and a most authentic town.
Sea views from Calle Requena, in El Cotillo, at the gates of La Vaca Azul restaurant.
WE FOLLOW THE NORTHEAST
WHAT TO SEE
Dunes of Corralejo: This Natural Park of turquoise waters and dunes will give you one of the most beautiful sunsets of the trip. It is accessed by the FV-1 road that goes from Puerto del Rosario to Corralejo. If you go deep enough, you will have the feeling of being in the middle of the desert. Its beaches are great for windsurfing, kitesurfing and diving.
Corralejo: It is the largest city in the north. The center is nice to walk around and a strategic point for the variety of accommodation, leisure and restoration.
WHERE TO EAT
Single End Burger (Hernán Cortés, 2, Corralejo): A small surf spot with terrace and good burgers.
Say Napoli (Av. Ntra. Sra. del Carmen (corner La Red), Corralejo): Pizzas in a nice space with wooden tables and rock walls.
Coffee lookout.
Beach Club: Inside the Gran Hotel Bahía Real, from its spectacular terrace you can see the Isla de Lobos. An advice? Ask for black rice.
The hat (Av. Marítima, 4, Corralejo): The best fish of the day with sea views.
Views of the area of the ravine of the Lovers.
WHERE TO DRINK
Banana Lounge Bar (Av. Marítima, 14, Corralejo): Place with an Indonesian air and good cocktails.
Waikiki Beach Club (Arístides Hdez. Morán, 11 Corralejo): Veteran disco-bar with restaurant and terrace.
One of the few buildings found on the island of Lobos.
WE'RE GOING NORTH-NORTH
WHAT TO SEE
When we say north-north, we refer to the small area that goes from Corralejo to El Cotillo, passing through Majanicho. From Corralejo you can access this path through the Charco de Bristol, that will take you to some of the best peaks on the island for surfing. It is a very wild area, with curious places like Popcorn beach and volcanoes where you can do trekking routes such as Calderón Hondo. In the middle of this path that takes us to El Cotillo is Majanicho, a small fishing village with a maritime atmosphere where it seems that the years do not pass. Before reaching El Cotillo also we find the Tostón lighthouse, another area with impressive beaches.
Sunset in the dunes of Corralejo.
AND IN THE NORTHWEST?
WHAT TO SEE
The Cotillo: Small town of fishermen and surfers. On one side, ideal beaches for surfing; on the other, lagoons with crystal clear waters where you can spend the whole day doing nothing. If you want to try surfing, you are in the most suitable place on the island. A good plan would be to rent a board, put it in the car and go down to the nearby beaches of Piedra Playa or Águila. You can also take classes with a local, they themselves take you in a van to the beach. One of the things we like most about this area is getting out of surf late at Esquinzo beach and watch the sunset from the top of the cliff. There is also a nice walk through the Barranco de los Enamorados, an area of fossil dunes excavated by water and modeled by the wind. Something like the Antelope Canyon in a Canarian version.
Lajares: a little town of quiet and authentic atmosphere surrounded by volcanoes and lava flows halfway between Corralejo and El Cotillo by the FV-109. Visit its craft market, every Saturday in the square from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
On board a ferry to Isla de Lobos.
WHERE TO EAT
The Blue Cow: Located next to the port of El Cotillo, This restaurant has a terrace overlooking the sea where you can taste excellent fresh fish with spectacular views. It is highly recommended to reserve the table in the corner of the upper terrace, to have the most privileged panoramic view.
The Rock of the Fishermen (La Caleta, 73, El Cotillo): Another place where eat wonderfully and then go to the sand to take a nap under the umbrella. The terrace overlooks the Castillo beach and its cliffs.
The Gourmand of Lajares (Coronel Latherta González Hierro, Lajares): Pastry with a nice terrace on the top floor, ideal to try its delicious lemon pie.
Fishing boats in the small port of the island of Lobos.
WHERE TO SLEEP
Maccaroni House, Surf and Skatehouse: typical house of Majorero style in Lajares, ten minutes from the north coast, where you can surf the best waves on the island. If that is the objective of your visit to Fuerteventura, you will not find a better place to stay. The owners They know all the breaks perfectly and they organize 'surfaris' around the island so you don't have to worry no problem.
Triangle House: A beautiful design villa with three double rooms and views of the volcano. It will make you think twice if it's worth going to the beach.
Stairway to an evening bath on the Muelito beach, in El Cotillo.
WOLF ISLAND
WHAT TO SEE
A small islet 2 km northeast of Fuerteventura where there are only virgin beaches, a volcano, a spectacular wave and a small restaurant with movie views. I can think of no more reasons to want to return again and again. It is an ideal getaway to do in one day: get on one of the first ferries in the morning, enjoy the views while you go into the sea, explore the island on foot in search of any of its virgin beaches, climb the volcano and admire Fuerteventura and Lanzarote from up there, eat in front of the beach at Antoñito el Farero's restaurant and return on the last ferry of the day watching the sunset at sea.
Solitary palm tree in the viewpoint of Las Coloradas beach.
This report has been published in the October/November 2020 issue of Condé Nast Traveler magazine.