Pulque is like being at home
Between neon lights and rock notes that sneak into the corners of the old mansion converted into a bar, waitresses covered in tattoos hand out drinks at close range to a clientele as modern as they are. It looks like Brooklyn, but it's Mexico City. And what is in the jars is not Budweiser, but what its defenders claim is the Mexican soul juice : the pulque
Overshadowed for years by tequila and mezcal, pulque is making a comeback as the one hundred percent Mexican drink . The pulquerías, once soulless family joints, are reinvented as the trendy places of the movida chilanga, and no trip to Mexico is complete without a night anchored in the bar of one of them.
Are you one of the uninitiated? Here is an introduction to the (for now) mysterious world of pulque.
1. WHERE IT COMES FROM
Despite this newfound fame, pulque has been part of the Mexican tradition since before Hernán Cortés laid a finger on America. Extracted from a native plant of the country, maguey Pulque has been consumed in Mexico since the times of the Aztec empire, who attributed religious and healing powers to it.
Spanish colonization brought the flu to Mexico. but also European drinks. Pulque was relegated to the role of elixir for the working classes, especially in times of drought, due to its protein and vitamin B content. Hence, it is said in Mexico that pulque “it only lacks one degree to be meat”.
Pulqueria in the 20s
two. WHAT TO EXPECT
First fundamental lesson in the consumption and tasting of pulque: forget your previous experiences with mezcal or tequila.
Pulque, for starters, has a much lower alcohol content. Compared to mezcal, which is around 60 proof, and tequila, which ranges from 35 to 55 proof; the pulque, with its between four and 12 degrees It is practically harmless.
However, what differentiates pulque from other typical Mexican drinks it's the texture. Thick, almost viscous, the first sip of pulque always catches the novice off guard, who expects a light liquid and not a kind of lumpy milkshake that is almost always served warm.
A toast from Pulque
3. HOW TO ENJOY IT
There is no reason to let the first impression, which many would define as "interesting", make you give up.
If the original flavor of pulque, sour and somewhat tasteless, leaves you cold, you're in luck. Each pulquería has its own selection of flavors: from the classics, like strawberry or papaya , to the most daring, like the oatmeal or celery. No matter how adventurous your taste buds are, there's a pulque for them.
Not a fan yet? Then dress it up : The drink lends itself well as an ingredient in versions of traditional cocktails, giving them a twist. How does a “pulqueada” pineapple sound? Or a raspberry and pulque granita?
Pulque disguised as flavors is also pulque
Four. WHERE TO TAKE IT
Pulque, as a good traditional drink, is better the closer to its origin: homemade, freshly made and, if possible, accompanied by some good tacos. For such an experience, the La Bonita pulquería does not disappoint: atmosphere of yesteryear, smells that feed and, of course, a pulque capable of resurrecting Moctezuma himself.
However, after losing the battle with mezcal and tequila, pulque learned to reinvent itself for new generations. If you are one of those who likes a "drink" with a side dish of electro-pop and neon lights, Pulquería Insurgentes and Pulquería Las Duelistas are two good clubs where you can rub shoulders with the hipsters of Mexico City while you experiment with the tomato, tangerine or guava pulque.
Pulque in La Bonita
5. RINSE AND REPEAT
Have you been wanting more? Throughout Mexico they organize pulque tours , in which they take you to see the distillation process, they tell you about the history of the drink and, of course, pulques of all kinds, colors and flavors are tried.
In DF, the Tinacal Collective organizes tours of Mexico City, on foot or by bike, divided by neighborhoods: depending on the day you go, you can find yourself enjoying pulque and a game of dominoes in a traditional venue north of the capital, or listening to a jazz band in the Roma neighborhood.
If you have the opportunity to leave Mexico City, Tlaxcala or Hidalgo are two good options to try pulque in its most authentic state: in the haciendas. These traditional farms show the process from the planting of the maguey to the tasting, and they even allow you to lend a hand in the distillation of the best pulque in the country: the one from home.
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Pulque, the Mexican flavor of pre-Hispanic times