Gijón, 48 hours of Cantabrian
The waiter pours a culin of cider and it takes just three seconds to ingest it, enjoying, in the process, every nuance of its taste . This is how any self-respecting escapade should begin—and begins— Gijon, the most beautiful city of the Cantabrian Sea : in Asturian ways.
And it is that the Jovellano's home It is not only history, that too. It is culture and it is gastronomy . It is archaeology, nature and landscapes. But, above all, it is fun: there is no corner in the north that knows how to get more juice out of life, we are already telling you that.
And if you don't believe us, keep reading, because we propose 48 hours full of experiences that will leave you with one thing very clear: the moment you leave Gijón on your way home… You will want to return.
FRIDAY AFTERNOON
4:30 p.m. The first thing we do is leave ride to Cimavilla , the fishing neighborhood that brings together the essence of what Gijón once was. Here it beats strongly the story of a town that always looked to the sea , and among old buildings, slopes, cider houses and alleys that recall its whaling past, there are also wonders such as the clock tower , one of the oldest constructions.
Gijón, 48 hours of Cantabrian
A route by the hand of Xixon Tours can be a great option to learn a little more about his origins , also doing it from a different perspective: the selection of thematic visits they offer ranges from the important role of women in the history of Gijón , to the writers with roots in the city, or those terrifying legends linked to this land when you hear about Theresa Perieto, the famous "Vampira de Jove" , you will understand.
Thus, entranced by history and fables in equal parts, we reach old Tabacalera building : what in 1668 was raised as a convent of the Order of Augustinian Recollect Nuns It became, after the confiscation of Mendizábal, the workplace of approximately 1,600 cigar makers. And, incredible as it may seem, it continued like this until just a few years ago.
Precisely in the adjoining square is one of those typical cider houses with history, — The Tobacco Company , of course—, which inevitably tempts us. It's time to make a mini break and take another culín of cider.
5:30 p.m. Thus, with our spirits a little higher, and while we breathe in with force that smell of the sea so present in the city —we are surrounded by Cantabrian Sea on all sides, what more do we want— we planted ourselves in the Birthplace of Jovellanos . Here we get serious: we are going to get to know the interesting museum which, in addition to telling the story of the illustrious Gijón native, also exhibits some 3 thousand pieces of Asturian art from the end of the 19th and 20th centuries.
Of course, Jovellanos shares the limelight with another important figure: his sister, Josefa de Jovellanos , it was the first woman who wrote literature in Asturian and, in addition, an enormous poetess. After admiring some of her creations, we went up to the top floor of the museum, where one of her jewels is found: the Altarpiece of the Sea, by Sebastián Miranda , is a wonderful polychrome wood carving where a typical scene from the Cimavilla fish market set in 1930.
7:00 p.m. we went through the Main Square , we recreate ourselves in its porticoes, we take a look at the Marquis Square and we do the honors before the Don Pelayo statue . Without hesitation, we approach the church of San Pedro and, if we have time, we take the opportunity to delve into the Roman Baths of Campo Valdés : We continue to discover a little more about the city's rich past.
Town Hall of Plaza Mayor, Gijón
For sunset, there is no doubt: we climb to the top of the Santa Catalina Hill Park . There, facing the immensity of the Bay of Biscay and next to the huge concrete sculpture that Chillida raised for the xixoneses, we praise the horizon with closed eyes, open arms and emotion on the surface.
9:00 p.m. But wait! That the day is not over yet. And dinner, what? Well, dinner will be in the port, we want to continue admiring the sea. Over there, in one of the three Michelin-starred restaurants in the city —and very close to the famous “letronas” who claim the obligatory selfie—, Boom makes us enjoy flavors of Gijón in all its versions . And all thanks to chef Gonzalo Paneda.
Tripe from the Auga restaurant
Signature and product cuisine , leaves us proposals in its tasting menu such as the egg yolk with foie and boletus or the Cantabrian squid squid with baked potatoes . One more tip? Gijon Tourist Office , along with a selection of renowned restaurants in the city, has shaped Xixon Gourmet , Or what is the same: avant-garde menus prepared by big names in Xixonesa cuisine at more than affordable prices. Boom It is one of them.
SATURDAY MORNING
10:00 a.m. As the route on Friday has not been bad, on Saturday we give ourselves the license to laze around a bit, which we also have the right to do. Once active, we go to the San Lorenzo beach , which you always want. 1550 meters of promenade marked by its different stairs, each one baptized with a most original name. We recognize it: we are fans of “ the toasteru ”, next to the Piles River, but above all "The Ladder" . Here, in Gijón, everything is named in a big way.
However, one small detail must be taken into account: the tides are so changeable and extreme that the same we find that the shore is tens of meters from the promenade, that we are surprised by the waves breaking strongly against the wall. things of Gijon . What will not be missing, and that is for sure, will be the occasional intrepid surfer riding the waves.
Caramel Dot Alfajores
11:00 a.m. Technical stop to regain strength! "Yeah, we've just started, but no one gets bitter from a sweet, right?" And we can't think of a better place to do it than Caramel Point , where our papillae will touch the sky with the exquisite alfajores from Soledad . The cafeteria is part of Greedy Gijon, a route through some of the Gijón's most emblematic confectioneries . Other options? La Bombonería Gloria, La Playa or Aliter Dulcia can't be missed.
12:00 p.m. Hang on, because one of our favorite parts is coming: the citadel of Celestino Solar It's not just a nod to the past, it's also a full-fledged history lesson. We reached it from a passage in the capua street , and it is the typical working-class neighborhood of the early 20th century in which, on plots hidden behind the facades of large buildings, small neighborhood patios were built where families lived together in small huts of just 30 square meters.
Today the foundations have been recovered and turned into a kind of museum in which many details of the old structure are preserved . Absolutely unmissable.
And we keep talking about buildings , because although during the Civil War Gijón suffered great damage due to continuous bombing, certain gems of modernist architecture of the time managed, miraculously, to survive. On the promenade some are preserved, such as the house designed by Manuel del Busto for Celestino López . Also in the center, in the Corrida or Los Moros streets , and even next to Jovellanos promenade , there are dozens of wonderful art deco facades that still today, more than a century later, continue to capture our attention.
And why this legacy? Well, it turns out that architecture was the ideal tool with which the bourgeoisie could demonstrate its social position and wealth, hence the artistic explosion . And blessed explosion.
Jovellanos Theater
Thus, lost in thought, we walk a little further to contemplate the exterior of the Jovellanos Theater and, since we are, we have the appetizer in the Dindurra Coffee : just to admire the aesthetics of your interior design , it's already worth it.
2:30 p.m. Time to eat! Y Gourmet Coalla is our site. At 8 San Antonio Street we conquer one of its high tables and, as good enjoyment, we give a good account of a display of delicious food. Their selection of cheeses, its wonderful wines and some of his culinary proposals based on preserves —oh, that ventresca salad…!— they make us shed two tears of emotion. This is Gijón, friend…
4:30 p.m. Once your stomach and soul are full of satisfaction, it is the turn of another of Gijón's icons: the Labor City of Culture it is simply colossal. It is mandatory to sign up for one of the very interesting guided tours that are organized from his office: it is the best way to learn everything, everything, about the history and construction of this pharaonic —and extremely beautiful— emblem. Not surprisingly, it is the largest civil building in Spain.
Dindurra Coffee
We walk through its patio, enjoy its central square, we are surprised by the wonderful dome of its old church and admire, excited, the incredible views from the top of its tower. A couple more curiosities? It was built in the mid-twentieth century by Luis Moya to serve as a mining orphanage, although it would later become the first Labor University in the country . Today, however, it hosts various cultural projects.
6:30 p.m. . A couple of hours will seem few to dedicate to La Laboral, but life goes on, my friend. Luckily, just five minutes away is one of the most beautiful gardens: visit the Botanical of the Atlantic It's like immersing yourself in a world apart. 25 hectares and more than 80 thousand plants give for a long walk. One of its parts is La Carbayeda de El Tragamón Natural Monument : a wonderful forest in which they grow trees up to 400 years old.
9:30 p.m. . After resting for a couple of hours in the hotel, and having dressed up, we went directly excited to cajole our palate with the help of Esther Manzano . Where? In The Salgar , of course.
The Labor of Gijon
A gastronomic universe full of avant-garde nuances created by this chef who, with her fine well deserved Michelin star , takes us on a journey through unique flavors and textures. Here we confirm that places also know, and Asturias does it divinely: his exquisite rice with pitu de caleya , but also its unrivaled Ham croquette or their seasonal mushrooms with chestnut apple and parsnip purée . If you consider yourself a foodie soul, do not hesitate and throw yourself with one of their tasting menus.
By the way! The restaurant is located in a place full of charm: the gardens of the Muséu del Pueblu d´Asturiesbu They deserve that you find a gap in your agenda.
**SUNDAY **
9:30 a.m. We better have a good breakfast, because the day is going to be interesting: what if we cheer up with the bicycle?
We decided to rent some —in Buva Concept they have electric ones, which may convince us more— and fearlessly launch towards the Senda del Cervigón, a route that runs along the coast of Gijón. do Who said fear?
We start parallel to the beach , which at this hour is already lively, and as soon as we cross the mouth of the river Piles we already intuit the path in the distance: yes, friend, it will touch and go up and down the wild geography until reaching its high cliffs . Crazy: whoever wants something, something costs him.
And what we want precisely is to enjoy that side that the people of Gijón, lucky them, enjoy every day: nature and the landscapes formed by beautiful beaches and rocks are simply indescribable.
In our path arise prints featuring beaches such as Mayanes, Cervigón or El Rinconín : a dog beach that shows that Gijón is, of course, pet friendly. But we also come across works of art that are pure poetry. Wonders as Shadows of Light -better known as Les Chapones -, the Cantu give them fruxios , or the monument to the Mother of the Emigrant —“La lloca” for friends— they finish conquering us.
1:00 p.m. Yes, we are hungry. So to say goodbye we get between chest and back one of the best brunches in all of Gijón: the one they prepare in the 37th Gastropub , the cafe-restaurant of Hotel Abba Playa Gijon , which also has views of San Lorenzo beach that are the envy of the city.
A feast in which we bet on the fruit smoothies, the quinoa salad and a toast of peasant bread with tumaca and Iberian ham that takes away the meaning. To top it off: a homemade carrot cake and some mini macarons. what a feast.
Although if what the body asks of us is pure and hard Gijón gastronomy, we head straight to the Sidrería Muñó, which, like many others, has a special menu “ Cider Route ” that will make us regain strength for a whole month. Asturian bean stew, traditional cakes, cachopos, rice pudding … This is paradise!
And it is just now, 48 hours after our arrival in Gijón, when what we all knew would happen happens. We haven't left yet and, indeed, we can't wait to return.
The sea, the great protagonist of Gijón