There is little more than an hour and a half to the island of Arran from the center of Glasgow and yet they seem worlds apart, two almost opposite Scots It is hard to believe that they are so far away.
because it is true that there other islands with a greater aura of romance and mystery , places with incredible landscapes and absolute tranquility, but it is also true that to reach them you need hours by car or train, one or two ferries and, sometimes, a bomb-proof will.
Arran, however, is there, just a step away. A few kilometers from the international airport and the center of the big city, perfectly accessible by public transport strategically located for a day trip or for a weekend.
And yet, despite the proximity, out of season preserves the calm and atmosphere in which one always wants to lose oneself, in which time ceases to matter and in which the only thing one seeks is one more landscape, a corner in which to let oneself be for the pleasure of being.
Ardrossan beach.
You can easily get there by car, but if you don't want to complicate yourself with traffic and parking a city like glasgow , the option of combine train and ferry it is also very convenient. From the central Station you have trains at least once an hour that will take you in just over 40 minutes directly to the ferry terminal in Ardrossan.
Although, if you go with time, it might be worth stopping a couple of stations before, at Saltcoats or Adrossan South Beach to discover one of the city beaches , one of those frequent getaways that Glaswegians make to get closer to the sea.
ARDROSSAN: THE CHARM OF NORMALITY
Ardrossan is not a monumental city, although the profile of the church of Saint-Peter-In-Chains silhouetted against the mountains, which in winter tend to have snow-capped peaks, it is quite spectacular. is one of those coastal towns manageable, with a quiet atmosphere where you just want to loiter
A good option is to do it along the promenade, next to the beach, and perhaps stop have breakfast at Cafe Melbourne, one of those village bars with a regular clientele, because that, so far removed from postcard photos, is also Scotland.
A tea and a breakfast with square sausage –that kind of meatloaf that is always disconcerting the first time– later, we are ready for the crossing.
Port of Ardrossan.
CASTLES AND DISTILLIES
There are five ferries a day to Arran, about 50 minutes through a sea that outside of summer has that disturbing almost black color of northern waters. Still, if you're lucky and the wind isn't frigid, it's worth it. stay on deck.
To the south the mountains of Galloway Forest Park and the strange rocky islet of ailsa craig ; to the north, the Isles of Bute, the Cumbrae and the highland skyline behind them.
Brodick. Barely 2,000 inhabitants. Low houses facing the bay and, on the outskirts, a castle with everything you had imagined it must have a castle in Scotland. If you have come without a car, this town is the place to rent one.
The gardens of Brodick Castle.
Lochranza, to the north. Perhaps the profile of its castle reflected in the waters is familiar to you. Hergé, the author of the adventures of Tintin, he was inspired by him to create the castle on the non-existent Black Island. On the outskirts, next to the stream, is the Lochranza Distillery.
If you are interested in exploring the world of whiskey , this is the perfect place, since it is one of the two distilleries on the island and one of the few that does not belong to a large business group and is still family-run. but if you prefer a bit of hiking , the distillery is also a good option.
Their Cask Cafe is the perfect starting point. Then, you just have to follow the stream upstream, going up its six waterfalls to Loch Na Davie, a small lake in the mountains. Little more than 4 kilometers uphill, but enough to discover where the waters used in the production of whiskey are born and be amazed by the views at every step.
If you prefer a more sedate walk, there are also options. Take the coast road , by Lenniemore , bordering peaks that are almost 900 meters high, until passing Machrie. A little over a kilometer away you will find a car park next to the road and a sign next to a fence.
THE STONES OF MACHRIE MOOR
The tour will not take you more than an hour. We walk along the river. To the south there a farm - Balnagore Farm, if you feel like it, you can stay in it– and little by little the meadows disappear to make way for the Moors . The moors.
The first circle appears without you even realizing it, at the edge of the road, but as you go forward you will discover that you are in a megalithic field studded with cromlechs and menhirs, prehistoric monuments full of legends.
The trail continues east, narrowing at every step, toward the mountains. To one side is an old farmhouse in ruins. Be careful, if you leave the path it's easy for you to sink into peat bogs almost to the knee.
In the background, a few hundred meters away, the Machrie Standing Stones They have been standing for thousands of years, in front of the mountains of ballymichael . It is one of those unique places.
Sunset on Machrie Moor.
No other noise is heard Than the one that produces the wind on the dry grass, the air is cold, now that the days are short. Some of the stones preserve traces of prehistoric engravings. I said it at the beginning: Glasgow is there, a stone's throw away. But this is another world.
Back in the car, we follow the road south. In blackwaterfoot, Before crossing the river, we turn towards the coast. It is a neighborhood of little houses scattered on the hill –some of them are Bed&Breakfast– on the beach. take a look at 2 Harbor View , for instance. It is simple, but it is rented in its entirety and will allow you to wake up less than 20 meters from the surf.
If the day is clear, this is the place to enjoy a sunset. Because, as in the entire west of the island, it is spectacular, but also here, in winter, you will see the sun set behind some hills, on the other side of the sea, in the distance. Larne, Mullaghboy, Islandmagee… You are watching the sun go down behind Ireland.
The enigmatic area of Machrie Moor.
A SOFA AND A FIREPLACE IN FRONT OF THE SEA
The road borders the south of the island, sometimes a handful of meters from the sea, until Lamlash, the second largest town on the Isle of Arran. Barely a thousand inhabitants sheltered in the bay behind the small Holy Isle.
The Lamlash Bay Hotel It is the place to stop. The rooms are really inviting – if you stay, opt for one of those with sea views , tomorrow you will give those extra pounds for being well invested– but even if you just want to stop for a while, their bar is exactly what you need after a day touring the island.
Lamlash.
There is a fireplace with armchairs next to them, the kind that seem to hug you when you drop into them. There is a very friendly staff who may suggest you a craft beer from the Isle of Arran Brewery and there is a menu, simple but tasty, with specialties such as the Balmoral chicken, stuffed with haggis, wrapped in bacon and served in a whiskey sauce. And a little Arran Cheddar , a locally produced cheese, perhaps, to finish. It's already pitch black out there.
Maybe now that room upstairs, wake up overlooking the bay and staying a few more hours is even more tempting. Never mind, tomorrow there will still be ferries and a sunrise like that is well worth a night on the island.