This terrace is one of the things we like the most about the Micasaenlisboa hotel
The white city is every day more fashionable. The sympathy of the Lisbon people, its colorful streets, the delicious gastronomic proposals, the gardens most seductive in Europe... any time is good for rediscover it. We go?
HOTELS
micasainlisbon . On the slopes of the Graça hill, at the foot of the viewpoint of Mrs. do Monte, the tallest of Lisbon , this building of simple lines that hides one of the secrets best kept in town.
ten rooms of fascinating architecture and with stunning views of the city, homemade breakfasts without time limits and the feeling of being at home, in our own house, but without having to deal with anything other than enjoying. Look out for dinners with guest chefs which take place every two or three weeks! (Calçada do Monte, 48. Price: from €90).
To feel like a Lisbon woman, this is how the apartments at The Lisboans hotel are
Four Seasons Hotel Ritz Lisbon. He has so much charisma, so much class, so much history, that when he became part of the chain Four Seasons, kept his name. The mythical Ritz, a monument in itself, just like its spa and fitness center, with a swimming pool and a running track 400 meters on the roof.
Due to its location, at the top of one of the seven Hills City, the rooms (almost all with a terrace) have jaw-dropping views. attention to the collection Portuguese tapestries.
(Rua Rodrigo da Fonseca, 88. Price: from €750).
Belmonte Palace_._ Renovated between 1994 and 2001 by Frédéric Coustols, the oldest palace de Lisboa is also one of its hotels with more character. its walls tile cutlery have been the scene of thousands of stories and the access patio is one of the most charming corners from the city.
In addition, for a couple of years it has housed one of our favorite restaurants, Leopold , in which Tiago Feio presents a contemporary proposal for product kitchen. We especially like its small pool and the giant bougainvillea that gives you shade. (Pátio de Dom Fradique, 14. Price: from €500).
Lisbon Inn a . In a corner of the Plaza de Comercio, in the former headquarters of the Ministry of the Interior, Inns of Portugal It has its most emblematic establishment.
The windows of the Palácio Belmonte have seen Lisbon grow and change
Sumptuous interiors with a collection of ancient art at the height of the building and spacious rooms with period furniture, such as the Salazar Desk, in the Dom Perignon suite, where the dictator had his office. (Praça do Comércio, 31-34. Price: from €300).
Santa Clara 1728_._ Next to the Feira da Ladra, the Lisbon Rastro, time seems to have stopped in this historic building.
Renovated by Manuel Aires Mateus, one of the best portuguese architects, from the hand of its owners, João and Andreia, the result is a delicate exercise in interior design in which materials play a fundamental role, creating a exquisite play of textures that is even transferred to breakfasts, focused on season products. (Campo Santa Clara, 128. Price: from €300).
The Lisboans . One of the new projects of the Baixa Lisbon is this discreet building, located in a street away from the hustle and bustle from the most touristic area of the city. Created by a group of friends who decided to change their lives a few years ago, it has 15 apartments one and two bedroom and careful architecture and interior design. It is the perfect base to live like a local. your restaurant Meadow , of the chef Antonio Galapito, is becoming a benchmark of the new Portuguese cuisine. (Tv. do Almada, 9. Price: from €160).
Valverde Hotel . As elegant as the shops that surround it, this boutique hotel in 25 rooms is the perfect enclave to enjoy Lisbon more cosmopolitan. The indoor pool, surrounded by greenery, is an oasis in the middle of the always lively avenue. (Av. da Liberdade, 164. Price: from €212).
york-house Lisbon . Two English women from Yorkshire (hence their name), have transformed what was an old Carmelite convent in the seventeenth century in a 21st century inn. In its idyllic interior patio you can order the breakfast that is normally served in the cloister Some rooms keep his old character, in harmony with the most modern contemporary design (Rua das Janelas Verdes. Price: from €90).
RESTAURANTS
O Piteu da Graça_._ We lose your sericaia , a traditional dessert Elvas Hard to find in Lisbon. Also their garlic prawns, its clams ao Bulhão Pato, their battered grouper fillets with vegetable rice, their fried fish... but, above all, above all, their sympathy and that they have been able to transform this corner of Graça into a classic of the Portuguese tradition. (Largo da Graça, 95-96. Hours: closed Saturday night and Sunday. Price: €15-20).
Cafe Garrett_._ Leopoldo Garcia-Calhau is responsible for this atypical restaurant, in the atrium of the Dona Maria National Theater. With the Alentejo on his DNI and in his heart, this architect found in the kitchen the best place to build his creations.
Fresh sardines, the so-called 'Portuguese caviar', as Lisbon-based as Pessoa
Focused on the product, which transforms minimally and interprets with contemporary Language, offers careful dishes, rich in flavors and textures and with all the tradition inherited from his land and from his family. Try the bacalhau, Joana's pudding and, some Sundays, the cooked brunch. (Praça Dom Pedro IV. Hours: daily from 12pm to 11pm. Price: about €20).
Atira-te Ao Rio . open by a couple of madrileños visionaries at the beginning of the 90s, It has become essential to enjoy the best view of Lisbon. Local products, simple elaboration, and perfect caipirinhas! (Cais do Ginjal, 69. Hours: daily from 12:30 to 10:30 p.m. Price: €25).
Pap'Açorda . The most doomsayers thought that the change of scenery would not do this well. contemporary Classic, but his transfer to the first floor of Mercado da Ribeira –please do not confuse it with the food corners on the ground floor– it has been a success.
A clean, comfortable space, pleasant day and night, where the classics of the house continue to be served: pastéis of massa tenra, cod spears, one of the Lisbon's best açordas and its emblematic chocolate mousse. (Av. 24 de Julho, 49. Hours: Mon-Thurs from 12:00 to midnight and Fri-Sat from 12:00 to 02:00. Price: between €30 and €40).
The Gazeteiros . alfama is more than fado and this small place next to the tracks of the tram 28 is good proof of that.
no letter, every week it offers a closed menu of four dishes and two desserts based on local seasonal products made with care and a very particular aesthetic. We like to sit in front of the open kitchen and watch Ana Raminhos plate her desserts... small works of art.
(Rua das Escolas Gerais 114-116. Hours: M-S from 19:30 to 00:00. Price: tasting menu, €30).
The Gambrinus Bar . The most classic among the classics has the best bar in Lisbon: on a stool under the watchful eye of Mr. Brito, with a white linen tablecloth, we enjoy the best croquettes (with mustard, if you please), the best bread with butter, a spectacular lobster empanada and delicious prawns Thorn. For dessert, café de balao 'in the old fashion'. (Portas de Santo Antão, 23. Hours: daily from 12:00 to 1:30. Price: about €40).
Fishing . In the zone of Royal Prince Diogo Noronha This restaurant dedicated almost exclusively to fish has just opened. With absolute respect for the best that the coast and the portuguese orchard, he prepares a rich and varied menu and an interesting tasting menu (€50-80). At noon, fixed menu of €25. (Rua da Escola Politécnica, 27. Hours: Tue-Sat from 12 noon to 3 p.m. and from 7 p.m. to midnight. A la carte price, €40).
Graca do Vinho . Miracles sometimes happen in Lisbon, like the one in this small place in an old grocery store transformed into a wine bar without a kitchen, but with a delicious proposal of tuned cans of preserves , soup of the day, Portuguese cheeses and sausages from the highest quality, the best tomato salad in Lisbon and a selection of wines by the glass that it changes every week.
(Calçada da Graça, 10 A/B. Hours: Mon-Sat from 12 to midnight. Price: €10-15).
Boi-Cavalo_._ An old butcher shop in which a video-artist turned chef, accompanied by another couple of vocational Cooks, gives new life to the best fresh seasonal product, transforming it into the craziest and most unexpected proposals. Chicken with oysters, why not? Nothing like coming to try. Six-course closed tasting menu more surprises. (Rua do Vigário, 70 B. Hours: M-Sun from 7:30 p.m. to 12:00 a.m. Price: about €40).
Solar two Presumed_._ Since many years, the best rice dishes in Lisbon are served in this hidden place in a side street of Baixa: the black choco rice, scallops and shrimp rivals the lobster and shrimp broth. Impeccable service. (Rua Portas de Santo Antão, 150. Hours: Mon-Sat from 12 noon to 3:30 p.m. and from 7:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Price: around €30).
Star of Bica . In a intimate atmosphere, with tiles on the walls and family photos and world maps with marked routes, Marta Figueiredo has developed a market kitchen with fresh products in which she experiences the gastronomic baggage that she brings from her travels. The menu changes almost daily and never disappoints. (Tv. do Cabral 33. Hours: M-S from 7:30 p.m. to midnight. Price: from €20).
Ze da Mouraria . In a minuscule space, almost sharing a table with the neighbor, has become over the years one of the favorites of the people of the neighborhood. His menu of the day is unbeatable . The roast cod is worth queuing for. (Rua João do Outeiro, 24. Hours: Mon-Sat from 12pm to 4pm. Price: about €10).
Ramiro Brewery . The recent extension has not put an end to the endless queues, which have not made a dent in this place, the best for seafood in Lisbon.
It's all a pleasure to see speed with which your waiters handle the trays of prawns, shrimp, spider crabs... To finish, the best prego no pao (meat sandwich) of the city. Its kitchen does not close, so go from 4 to 7 p.m., when there is no queue. (Av. Almirante Reis, 1. Hours: Tue-Thu from 12 noon to midnight, Fri-Sun until 1 a.m.) .
Tasca Kome. Crossing the door of this house of Japanese food in Baixa Lisbon we are greeted in chorus with a “Yōkoso” and genuine smiles. For those who think that Japanese food is just sushi and sashimi, Kome serves food traditional japanese with a varied menu and a affordable menu of the day and seasonal, and desserts to skip the diet. Very interesting the sake menu.
(Rua da Madalena, 57. Hours: M-S from 12:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and from 7 p.m. to 10 p.m. Price: €25).
Guardian-Mor . Our peixinhos da horta (tempura green beans) favorites are served in this hidden and quiet place. Its owner, a Frenchman who has lived in Lisbon for many years, maintains the traditional cuisine practiced by the previous owners. For a quiet, unhurried dinner. Always sounds an amazing selection of classical jazz. (Rua Guarda-Mor, 8. Hours M-F from 12:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. and from 7:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m., Sat-Sun. Price: dinner only; €25).
Coffee Tati . It will close at the end of the year. this emblematic place, victim of the real estate speculation Lisbon suffers. It has been the scene of many meetings around a piano, a glass of wine, and the healthiest and most natural food from the hand of Ramón, its owner. (Rua Ribeira Nova 36. Hours: M-S from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m.) .
VEGAN TO EAT BETWEEN MEALS
O Old Talho . Meat is a thing of the past at this old butcher shop in the area of Marquis of Pombal. You can eat, have a brunch, a coffee or go shopping. Its creator is Joao Manzarra, actor and TV host who became vegan after watching the documentary Cowspiracy and decided to open a place where everything is 100% animal free. The menu of the day is delicious even for the most carnivorous.
(Av. Duque de Loulé, 85. Hours: Mon-Fri from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., Sat-Sun from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.) .
My Mother's Daughter . A small place next to the Gulbenkian Foundation, created by a mother and her three daughters, who bet for the vegan, with fresh produce small orchards near Lisbon. Their vegetable soufflé (yes, without eggs) is very good, as well as the fruit juices and chocolate desserts. (Largo de São Sebastião da Pedreira 49. Hours: M-F from 8:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. and Sat-Sun from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.) .
BREAKFAST AND SNACK
dear breakfast . The best organic breakfast of the city in a small local in a hidden street near parliament. Interesting egg menu. You can have breakfast until snack time! (Rua Gaivotas, 17. Hours: M-F from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Sat-Sun from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.) .
Fauna and Flora . They say they serve “small and large lunches” healthy. Without being a vegan option, bet on vegetables as a basic ingredient. The seasonal fruit juices They are delicious, as are the biscuits and cookies (Rua da Esperança, 33. Hours: M-S from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. and Sun from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.).
Bernard Bakery . The people of Lisbon recognize a tourist because they are the ones who drink coffee in To Brazilian (two doors up), while the locals go to Bernard. We think it's because of your chocolate croissant, but his showcases have many others and delicious reasons. (Garrett, 104. Hours: M-S from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.) .
Versailles Bakery . Service and aesthetics of other times and most traditional of the Portuguese patisseries: Toasted with manteiga, croissants, bread of God, milk bread, Jesuits, brigadeiros… You'll get fat just thinking about it. (Av. da República, 15-A. Hours: daily from 7:30 a.m. to midnight).
O Careca do Restelo_._ Here they prepare best croissants in Portugal, and some delicious palm trees of a very fine sugared puff pastry. You will not find tourists. is in one residential area away from the center, a little beyond Belem. (Rua Duarte Pacheco Pereira, 11D. Hours: 8 a.m. to 8 p.m., closed on Mondays).
Espelho d'agua: food, drinks, art, concerts... in a modernist pavilion
APPETIZERS AND COCKTAILS WITH A VIEW
Meanwhile Rooftop_._ A trick to avoid the queues Santa Justa Elevator: walk to Rua Nova do Almada and go up to the seventh floor of the Hotel do Chiado, designed by Alvaro Siza after the 1988 fire. The same Wonderful views with a glass of wine in hand and something to nibble on. (Hotel do Chiado, rua Nova do Almada, 114. Hours: daily from 10am to midnight).
_ mirror of water . _In an old modernist pavilion built in 1940 for the Portuguese World Exhibition, it is surrounded by a 'mirror of water' that visually unites it with the Tagus. Restaurant, cafeteria, art gallery, musical performances and, above all, delicious loungers facing the river to rest watching the sunset. (Av. Brasilia, between the Popular Art Museum and Padrão dos descobrimentos, Belém. Hours: Mon-Fri from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. and Sat-Sun from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m.) .
Park_._ The Calçada do Combro car park building is crowned with this singular space from where they are enjoyed incredible sunsets and panoramic views over Lisbon rooftops. A huge landscaped terrace where to have a drink and a snack until well into the morning. (Calçada do Combro, 58. Hours: Mon-Sat from 1pm to 2am) .
Sky Bar, Tivoli Avenida Liberdade_._ On the left, the castle of São Jorge, in the background, the Tagus River, under your feet, the roofs of Lisbon and, around you, handsome people.
Since it opened a couple of years ago, after the comprehensive reform that recovered the mythical Tivoli Avenida Liberdade, its Sky Bar, on the ninth floor, the last, has become one of the Lisbon's favorite places who work in the area to enjoy the afterwork with panoramic views. (Av. da Liberdade, 185. Hours: from 5:00 p.m. to midnight).
Mole . At the top of the Mouraria Shopping Center, opened a couple of years ago this bar-restaurant with Spectacular views of the castle.
Do not think that you have made a mistake: you have to go up in the elevator until the sixth floor and, once there, its terrace covered with pots of aromatic plants It is the ideal place to recreate yourself with **a good drink. ** (Commercial Center Martim Moniz, Praça Martim Moniz. Hours: Sun-Wed from 12:45 a.m. to midnight, Thurs-Sat from 12 a.m. to 2 a.m.) .
SHOPPING
Camilla Watson . Walking through Mouraria, many will be surprised to discover portraits of people on the walls of the streets: They are one of the projects of Camilla Watson, who has been living in this small corner of the area for more than 15 years most traditional of Lisbon portraying its inhabitants. In her workshop she sells developed photos on ceramic tiles or paper: one of the most beautiful memories to take home. (Largo dos Trigueiros, 16A; Mouraria).
House Pereira da Conceição . One of the best coffee shops of Portugal, where we can also find the beautiful balão coffee makers with which to make a soft and natural coffee following the ancient tradition. Its pink-painted wooden counters and the sign on its façade take us back in time more humane and unhurried. (Rua Augusta, 102. Hours: Mon-Sat from 8:30 a.m. to 6 p.m.) .
One of the shelves in the store of ceramic artist Teresa Pavao
Independent Food . A grocery store –mercearia in Portuguese– specialized in portuguese products from small producers: pork chorizo fed with chestnuts, ash-cured goat cheese and produced by a sociologist in Ribatejo , natural wines from the Franco-Portuguese couple Os Goliardos... All compiled by Rita Santos, who decided, like so many, to change her life and write her small thesis on the shelves of this house. To make the purchase as God intended. (Rua Cais do Tojo, 28. Hours: M-S from 10 a.m. to 8 p.m.) .
Companhia Portugueza do Chá . They say that she was the queen Catherine of Braganca who brought tea to England from Portugal, back in the 17th century. And it has been an Argentine, Sebastián Filgueiras, owner of the Cafe Buenos Aires, who has had the brilliant idea of opening a shop specializing in Portuguese tea.
Names as suggestive as Saudade of Kobe for a green tea with notes of orange or Lisbon Breakfast and Lisbon Afternoon, originating in the Azores, coexist with the ChaCamelia, the new brand of green tea planted and dried in mainland Portugal. (Rua do Poço dos Negros 105. Hours: Mon-Sat from 10:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m.).
Fable Urbis . Is small bookstore next to the cathedral is the best place to discover the city. Its owner is passionate about Lisbon and organizes literary encounters in the living room on the first floor. Danger: if you like books, You may not be out for hours. (Rua Augusto Rosa; I know).
Luvaria Ulysses . probably one of the smaller shops of the world. It is a pleasure to choose between their brightly colored fur and let them try on a pair of gloves handmade in his workshop. (Rua do Carmo, 87-A;Baixa/Chiado).
EITHER! Gallery . Small art Gallery dedicated to young Portuguese illustrators. organize monographic exhibitions. (Calçada de Santo André, 86; Mouraria).
Or small garden . Is tiny florist in a doorway on Rua Garrett is an oasis of peace in the midst of the consumerism of the street most commercial and bustling of the city . (Rua Garrett 61; Chiado).
Soul Mood . A contemporary women's fashion space with a selection of most avant-garde international designers. They make their own collection of leather bags and accessories_.(Travessa do Carmo; Chiado) ._
Teresa Pavao . In a old bakery at the entrance to the Alfama neighborhood, the artist Teresa Pavão exhibits and sells ceramics and textile pieces she that she designs and produces by hand in her little workshop. In the back room are the pieces from the ** individual exhibition she did at MUDE ** in 2012. (Rua São João da Praça; Alfama).
**DO NOT MISS **
Gulbenkian Foundation _(Av. de Berna, 45A) _; from April 20 to September 10, €5. In May and June, the garden of the Gulbenkian Foundation is one of the most beautiful places in Lisbon. Until September, the central gallery presents Post-Pop exposure: out of the ordinary, with works of Portuguese pop produced between 1965 and 1975 by a group of artists who portrayed with certain irony the situation of the country.
Garden of Ajuda _(Calçada de Ajuda) _; Mon-Fri from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Sat-Sun from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. On April 21, the fourth intervention that the magnificent portuguese potter António Vasconcelos Lapa performs in the city gardens. Discover your creatures hidden among the vegetation is the excuse to revisit this garden.
MUDE Out of Gates _(Palácio dos Condes da Calheta, Rua General João de Almeida, Belém) _. Since the reforms began his building in Baixa, the Design Museum started a program fora de portas (outdoors).
The exhibition Both Mar. Fluxos Transatlânticos do Design, until July 15, it is a magnificent opportunity to enter the Calheta Palace where, in addition to the best of lusophone design, you can admire a very special place and its collection of woods from all over the world, with more than 4,000 samples.
***** This report was published in **number 118 of Condé Nast Traveler Magazine (June)**. Subscribe to the printed edition (11 printed issues and a digital version for €24.75, by calling 902 53 55 57 or from our website) and enjoy free access to the digital version of Condé Nast Traveler for iPad. The June issue of Condé Nast Traveler is available in its digital version to enjoy on your preferred device.