A centenary route through Santiago de Compostela.
you arrive at Santiago de Compostela by transport or walking. It rains and the stone of its historic area is wet. It is a picture just as it was described to you, just as you imagined it, a postcard of a medieval city in the rain.
However, you soon realize that there is something that does not fit with what you had imagined. There are many stores, yes, but most of them radiate a fluorescent light that is hardly typical of a historical place. In addition, in almost all the places they sell in repetition the same souvenirs that, why deny it, they do not have much personality and are not different from others that you have seen in other parts of the world.
Don't worry, Do not panic . There are still places in Santiago de Compostela that have stood the test of time and resist the dreaded gentrification . Here is a list of those historical places we should visit and protect if we don't want the cities we love to become photocopies of each other.
And, if we want to take a little step further, How about taking a real and unique memory of the place we visited and thus helping these precious and unique places not have to close?
Cafe Casino, opened in 1873.
PARADISE CAFETERIA
An example of the magic that can be found in a city if we look beyond what is seen with the naked eye. The Paradise Cafe , located in the central Rua do Vilar , not easily seen. To access it, you have to enter a portal, next to a photography shop, and open a door at the end of a corridor that seems to lead to another time. And it is more or less like this.
This place was founded in 1976 by 'El Cubano' , an emigrant returned from Cuba who sought to represent the environments described in the novel by Lezama Lima of the same name, paradise in his native land. And he succeeded in spades.
The place is not only beautiful and very cozy ; It's also one of those places where it's easy to travel back in time - there's even an old radio that still works and a clock that's over 200 years old. It is currently run by Agustín, Socorro and their son Pablo, who are not only charming, but also they make delicious food . Highly recommended.
COFFEE CASINO
Although the casino cafe that we see today reopened in 2012, after being closed for years, fully maintains the essence of the 19th century premises . Specifically, the Café Casino originally opened its doors in the year 1873 , and you can still enjoy it piano concerts and of exhibitions.
Nowadays it is good to have a drink and feel like a cultural figure of the city living at the beginning of the 20th century.
Pavarotti also went through the Iglesias Hat Shop.
HEADLINERS CHURCHES
The Church hat shop this year has reached the incredible number of 107 years . Even so, its owner María Nieves, daughter of the founder Celestino Iglesias, acknowledges that now the business gives little more than to survive.
Hard to believe considering that the hats sold in this centuries-old shop are famous and if you buy one, it may last for generations . In fact, if you buy a hat here you will be following in the footsteps of well-known figures in Galician history such as Castelao either Inclan Valley ; or the international Pavarotti . Something to take into account.
ALGUI HABERDASHERY
It seems that from the outset it would not be interesting to go into a haberdashery when we are on vacation in a city that is not our own, but that is because there are few haberdasheries as beautiful and historic as Algui.
Its current owner, Anxos, is the granddaughter of the woman who founded it in 1948 , and she shows the love she has for the place when she is asked about the origin of this store. The best thing about Algui haberdashery is the mix of colors , the good atmosphere of those who run it and the fact that you can buy everything from a small button to bobbin lace.
It should be a must stop for those who want to understand how it really is Santiago de Compostela.
Derby, the quintessential place for great gatherings between writers.
DERBY CAFETERIA
One of the cafes known for **hosting the gatherings of the great writers and thinkers of the early 20th century in Galicia ** -and also for being described in the The hive novel -.
In the Santiago of the 21st century, the Derby cafe stands as a symbol of the past , so that the history of this timeless and living city is not forgotten, and to remind us that talking calmly, between coffees, should continue to be a fundamental form of socialization and philosophy.
Its interior also maintains its original appearance, with wooden chairs presided over by an immense white marble bar.
Bescansa Pharmacy, since 1843.
BESCANSA PHARMACY
Located in the toural square , a stone's throw from the Alameda park, this pharmacy is ideal for buying plasters for the traveler's feet, or simply entering and enjoying a beautiful place that respect its centennial past.
She established Antonio Casar in 1843, but since the beginning of the 20th century, the current owner is the Bescansa family. Today, within it we find the original wooden furniture , as well as the jars that were used in the last century to store medicines. A real pleasure for lovers of historical apothecary.
PUB FUCO LOIS
In the Rua de Xelmirez we found this pub that maintains the Galician spirit in the city of Santiago . It is one of the oldest pubs in the city, something that can be seen even in its sign, made of stone, and on its walls, which tell almost a summary of the history of the place.
Today, it is mostly f loved by his queimada and for the kindness of the waiters, who even make you a Galician spell if the place is not too crowded. A perfect way to learn a little more about the culture of Santiago and to support another of the city's historic venues.
The Vetusta bookstore seeks relief. Are you interested?
OLD BOOKSTORE
Although the historical Ancient Bookstore has plans to close for retirement, its owner, Quini Díaz, plans to do it calmly. So much so that, in fact, it has been open for a year longer than expected, so this is the time to visit it, before it closes its doors forever.
La Librería Vetusta is one of those places that smell of old paper and bring peace. Y It is one of the emblematic places of the Rúa Nova , a symbol of Compostela. Inside, there are hundreds of second-hand books that their owner knows almost by heart and that she hopes to find an owner so she doesn't have to get rid of them without finding a new home for them.
Few bookstores remain today where total respect for the written word is noticeable and for each book almost as if it were a living being. A marvel. Indeed, seeks generational change , in case any visitor suddenly finds his true vocation and wants to save it from becoming another impersonal place.
Commercial Julio Tojo, 106 years of life.
COMMERCIAL JULY TOJO
An ideal place for buy quality umbrellas or suitcases . This store has already reached the 106 years , and it is now the granddaughter of its founder, Cristina Tojo, who runs it energetically.
On the wall of the store there is a photo of the family's business beginnings, and Cristina shows her pride in her ancestors her when she explains how they came to sell the best umbrellas in town . A timeless, durable and very useful souvenir.
TOURAL KIOSK
This small kiosk, located near Plaza do Toural, at the entrance to Rúa Nova, it is unique not only for the fact that it has already turned one hundred years old s, but also because of the love that its owner, Ana Veiga, has for her work.
There are many people from Santiago who remember running to buy magazines either cards in their childhood to this place, which stands out with its bottle green color, and its shape of old kiosk , on the cobblestone of the city.
Now, Ana hopes that it will be the children of many generations to come who can also enjoy her kiosk. Rain or cold, she -or her suceroses of her- of her will be there waiting and distributing newspapers, books or even records.
The Quiosco do Toural has already turned 100 years old. .
THE ARCH WORKSHOPS
Located a stone's throw from the Faculty of Philosophy of the Compostela University , in the beautiful Mazarelos square , we found this little shop that survives from the 50's by fixing old typewriters, calculators and other gadgets.
It is The Arch Workshops -name given to it by the stone arch that rises above its roof-, a store run by María and her son-, and which is in charge of continuing to give life to these products that have no other place to go .
It is so well known that people from all over Spain -and sometimes even from Europe- come to her with the hope of continuing to give life to these machines that are already part of history. An example of the importance of repairing instead of throwing away and buying again.