What no one had ever told you about Comporta
It all starts when one of the most influential families in Portugal buys the so-called Herdade da Comporta, 12,500 hectares that stretch between the Sado River estuary and the sea, grouping together seven hamlets: Pego, Carvalhal, Brejos, Torre, Possanco, Carrasqueira and Comporta. A land of intense blues and vibrant greens, those of the rice fields, with unique natural conditions for agriculture and fishing.
No one could have expected that this isolated rural community would one day become a trendy destination. , much less when among its inhabitants (about 3000) there has always been a high sense of preservation and attachment to the most essential. Nevertheless, in the mid-90s, as they tell us, that authenticity with style, combined with a privileged natural setting they made Comporta start to appear on the radar of trendy places.
From the hand of our special cicerones (the inhabitants of Comporta themselves), we invite you to a winter tour of one of the most magical places in Portugal.
A land of intense blues and vibrant greens
RIDE A HORSE ON THE BEACH
Nothing like riding on the back of an imposing horse along a deserted beach of indomitable nature. Yes, places like this still exist. José Ribeira is, together with his wife, the charismatic owner of Cavalos na Areia. For more than seven years, "seven days a week, 365 days a year", is dedicated to discovering to visitors that wild nature that seduced him , to the point of leaving his job in the real estate business and settling in Comporta.
"It's a real paradise these days," he tells us as he walks his dog on the beach. “The vegetation that struggles to make its way to the raging waters of the Atlantic, the birds combing an intense blue sky…” As he tells us, it is more and more frequent to receive groups of French and Belgians who decide to spend the Christmas holidays in Comporta, attracted by a warm climate and a setting of incomparable beauty.
Stroll along a deserted beach of indomitable nature
AT SUNSET, MAGIC OPERATES
The rice harvest has finished and the farmers proceed to the traditional burning of the rice straw. At sunset, the ocher palette of a generally cloudless sky mixes with the intense red of the bonfires , in a centuries-old ritual whose objective is to prepare the fields for the next harvest, ridding them of possible pests.
MIGRATORY BIRDS
Comporta belongs to the Reserva Natural do Estuário do Sado, an environment that due to its natural conditions It houses more than 88 species of birds, making it an ideal spot for ornithological observation. However, what very few know is that from December to March hundreds of migratory birds cross the skies of Comporta in a magic show. For more information on bird watching, you can consult the Birds & Nature website or the Aves de Portugal site.
This reserve is home to more than 88 species of birds
PALAFITIC PORT OF CARRASQUEIRA
Winter is the perfect time to contemplate this masterpiece of popular architecture that is reminiscent of constructions more typical of Southeast Asia. AND his port was built by the fishermen themselves using pallets, wood and poles. The stilt houses that make up the dock are formed by long routes organized in a labyrinthine way. Nothing better than approaching and exploring them while watching the fishermen busy with their tasks.
No, it's not Southeast Asia, it's the Portuguese coast
THE BEHAVIOR LIFESTYLE
Comporta is often referred to as the quintessence of the 'boho-chic' style. Actually, behind that generic denomination hides the passion of its inhabitants to preserve its authenticity. The old fishermen's houses have been renovated in accordance with traditional building codes: cement floors, stairs that maintain a certain orientation, use of materials from the earth (wood, sand, straw or heather) ... From there, a Comporta style has emerged that is characterized by simplicity and good taste.
Much of this Comporta Lifestyle is due to the architect and interior designer Vera Iachia, creator of an unmistakable stamp , which mixes the vernacular style of the fishermen with a unique contemporary aesthetic. Iachia works with materials from the region and local artisans to interpret her ideas. Hers are the so-called Portuguese Cabanas de Comporta. Spectacular.
Cabanas Portugueas by the architect and interior designer Vera Iachia
SHOP THE COMPORTA STYLE
The Comporta style has transcended the decoration, the way of dressing and even the way of being. To find it (and buy it) do not miss the following stores. Yes, they are open even in winter.
Lavender (Largo Sao Joâo, 3) . To say that this store opened in 2011 sums up Comporta's 'boho-chic' style perfectly is an understatement. Actually Lavanda is almost a meeting point for locals and visitors. “There is something here for everyone”, explains Catherine Austed, a friendly Norwegian who, after spending several summers in Comporta, decided to stay.
The small restaurant serves sandwiches, breakfasts and cocktails at sunset. "After the beach, people come to have a gin and tonic on the terrace, it's really very unique, you have to come to understand it." Catherine tirelessly travels to different countries to find the pieces that best suit the Comporta style: ethnic cut dresses, raffia borsalinos, esparto espadrilles and also decorative pieces (ceramics, bedding and the wonderful candles of Claus Porto, among many other things)
The Comporta style is purchased here
Other places not to be missed are La Tienda del Museo de Arroz, with its ethnic style and unique pieces, and Coté Sud, on Rua Dom Afonso Henriques.
The Comporta style is also the source of inspiration for some brands , like Cush Cush Comporta Spirit by Patricia Brito e Cunha, a wonderful brand of cushions that we can already find in some stores in Lisbon (the Belém Cultural Center store).
SOS: FISH, SEAFOOD AND TAMBORIL RICE. WHERE?
The closed doors of restaurants like Sal, one of the most popular places, remind us once again that it is out of season. Do not panic because there are still fantastic options to taste the rich gastronomy of the area: O Restaurante dos Pescadores , on Praia do Carvalhal, is a paradise for fish and excellent seafood.
We have also found the Museu do Arroz open, an old rice unloading factory, converted into a contemporary cocktail bar and restaurant, where It is essential to taste a Tamboril Rice, flavored with coriander and accompanied by prawns, monkfish and clams, the specialty of the area. I remember dining here in the late 90's (it was only renovated in 2006 in the current style) . Who would have thought that I would return to see it become a fashionable place!
This is what it's like to eat in an old rice factory
WHERE DO I STAY
Here you will not find large hotel ventures (thank God), but Eco-sustainable accommodation on the edge of the Atlantic, but with a lot of glamor and style. Take a look at the Casas na Areia by architect Manuel Aires Mateus, former fishermen's shelters converted into cabins in a refined style.
Although if you really want to fully experience the Comporta experience, you should stay in a local's house, like this one or this one. Also, you can always try to get to the big secret: Vera Iachia's own house is for rent and they assure us that it is simply incredible. However, like all great treasures, it will not be easy for you to get to it: the house in question is not found online and it is necessary to know someone in Comporta to be able to rent it but if you propose...
An eco-sustainable accommodation on the shores of the Atlantic
HOW TO GET?
Comporta is an hour's drive south of Lisbon. There are two ways to access: the most romantic way is, without a doubt, from Setúbal by ferry , crossing the Sado River estuary and marveling at the scenery along the way. The fast, via the A2 motorway, direction Algarve.