Novitiate Street is not pretty; is much more
Let's be honest: to say that Novitiate Street is beautiful would be lying. But it is one of the few privileged ones that refer us to some lost verse of a song by a singer-songwriter. It's strange, difficult, almost impossible, not to hum that 'Yesterday I saw you on the Novitiate subway, I recognized you despite how much you've changed...' that Nacho Vegas and Christina Rosenvinge danced as a duo. And why Novitiate? What is so ungainly, almost cartoonish about the city's alley? All.
When we say everything we mean up to incunabula . We meet in the number 3 , in the **Marqués de Valdecilla Historical Library of the Complutense University of Madrid**, the second largest volume of books prior to the 19th century in the Community. Between low buildings, author graffiti, new bars and traditional groceries, the only building with pristine walls and stained glass windows passes almost imperceptibly; walls that guard more than 6,000 manuscripts and more than 700 incunabula , living history of the role for which Aurora Díez Baños directs us.
Digitization has given way to other filing systems... But this one does not lose its charm
The Library is a space for research and, above all, conservation. The work that is carried out between cold light scanners for the digitization and restoration of all types of books, unique copies and manuscripts, is essential to prolong the life of each page. And from each trip: the Library's collection of travel books consists of more than 2,300 works that travel between Japan, Paraguay, Russia, Tibet... Works that once functioned as parapets on the windows of the University during the Civil War, suffered plagues, fires, humidity... And today they survive thanks to the care of the conservators. Before leaving, the director, Marta Torres, invites me to observe the entrails of the Novitiate, the patios, the unknown face of the street.
Reviving leaves in Novitiate
GET READY The contrast is very close, at number 7 . He opens the doors of his boutique for us Rose of Madrid the overwhelming Maria Jose Gonzalez , confessed in love with the city and its history. It is not for less. María José experienced the explosion of a Spain that was just beginning democracy and freedom, of a new country in which she immersed herself through cinema and films such as 'Chill' , where the bodies became naked after so many years covered up. She now dresses them, listens to them, pampers them : “Dressing is a therapy and I try to be a promoter. I want people to leave here satisfied and happy."
Rosa de Madrid is certainly the flower of Novitiate: colourful, warm, welcoming, full of details to the brim... And with a changing room worthy of a starlet: better than at home. Sequins, animal prints, sheer fabrics, studs, tulle... Yes. Everything we can expect from a boutique. But let's add his light fixture like a theater dressing room, the book 'Sinfonía del alma' presiding over the backstage of the store, the small patio that overlooks that unknown Novitiate (and in which a neighbor's peacock used to sneak in) . .. And the stories of María José in the Madrid of La Movida and on this street where she has been for 22 years : “Novitiate used to be an old street market; people came here to buy everything... And I've always believed that it will be like this again”.
María José González: therapist in fashion and history of Madrid
We don't know if it's 'like this', but on Novitiate Street there is room for the most primitive form of economy: bartering in Open Sesame! And we open the door of number 9. What we find are mountains of clothes as far as the eye can see, board games, books, accessories... This dense but tidy hodgepodge is not for sale: is exchanged. Jose and Emanuela They opened the store two years ago with a simple operation: depending on the clothes you deposit, you pay a supplement in exchange for a points card to spend in the store.
Between porcelain kittens and books of all kinds, you can find what one would find after pronouncing the words 'Open Sesame': treasures from almost any era . Even vintage clothing and surplus collections to take home for a ridiculous price. But it is not enough: cultural barriers they continue to be an impediment to a form of responsible consumption that is taken for granted in countries like the Netherlands”, Jose tells me after having bagged a gray tweed dress for Rita, a Portuguese regular on Open Sesame who will return, for sure, until the points are exhausted. of your card.
From responsible consumption to sustainable transport. Novitiate Cycles It is the next stop, the obligatory stop for any self-respecting 'bicyclist'. Here Eduardo, Larry and Andrés parked the two wheels. “It all started in a workshop that we had upstairs and two years ago we decided to open the shop where we make repairs and where we make and sell our own frames,” says Larry, pointing to a brand new red bicycle with the lettering of 'Ciclos Noviciado ' in your box.
Undoubtedly, the vintage fever for the restoration of old bikes has helped the hobby of these three partners who, in addition, they have a traveling past (London, Sweden, United States...) in which they rediscovered the cycling culture that they now see flourishing little by little in the capital. The expert's advice? “The most important thing when buying a bicycle is that it be easy to maintain, to avoid continuous imbalances, but even so, it is essential to know a couple of notions and do a set-up” (a task for which Ciclos Noviciado offers courses from a basic level to an advanced mechanic).
Eduardo between touring and road bikes
REMAINING MADRID OLD With the bike ready, we go to the most striking shop window on our street: **the Gonzalo González fish shop**, which also shares number 9. It has been planted here since 1927 and who attends us on the other side of the counter is Gonzalo himself, like 85 years ago his great-uncle would do : "The working day at the fish market begins with a good haggle at 4:30 in Mercamadrid." And from there to the counter with the pieces of the day, serving the neighborhood of Conde Duque and to those who follow the path of crabs (a few months ago they were painted on the floor of this Novitiate sidewalk) to the doors of Gonzalo González: "We also have home delivery: we reach such a point of trust that we have cases of lifelong customers who do not know the fishmonger" . Any advice for this Christmas? “You cannot miss the sea bream, the star fish of this season, the rooster and, of course, the shellfish”. And what seafood. Go bovagantes greet from the fish tanks of the showcases...
Gonzalo González: 85 years serving the best of the sea in Madrid
ARTS & CRAFTS LOVERS There are those who combat stress with a good pedaling, with a bit of shopping or with sewing, crochet, knitting, amigurumi courses... Those Arts & Crafts that scream DIY! And for that there is also a Novitiate. **There is also PeSeta **. With a recognizable own brand, its products have been ordered from Florida: "the star product, without a doubt, is the bag ” Jaime tells us, “although you can also find the Primavera Sound pack and miniature digital cameras Harinezumi ”. A whole set of diverse 'cucadas' that have originality as their flag.
Why Novitiate? Laura, who lived at number 10 Noviciado Street (along with her boyfriend Andrés, founder of Ciclos Noviciado... Everything stays at home), started this project in 2006 that now designs the official bags for the Primavera Sound Festival or the caps for cyclist for the New Museum in New York... the same thing that collaborates with Marc Jacobs. PeSeta does not stop. But those who do it for the store are assured of a warm and colorful welcome. among fabrics of the world , patterned bow ties and all kinds of instruments to unleash the imagination with the needle and thread.
PeSeta: do it yourself
TO BREAD, BREAD AND TO WINE, WINE And to finish off the day in Novitiate, we welcome a newly opened place in the neighborhood: Bread and wine. What attracts attention when crossing the door of the old bar El Castillo, is a large cart on which some more than appetizing products are perched: hams, empanadas, liqueurs, oils, artisan chocolates and as, lots of bread and lots of wine. Jesus Alvare z has just opened the place, they have been new to the neighborhood for just three weeks, but at this time of day there are only six loaves of bread left: “I like the neighborhood, it has a lot of life and the neighbors are gradually entering, especially for him Cea bread ”. From Cea? A quick glance and we realize that there is something suspicious here: coffee liqueur, orujo cream, Cea bread, empanada... Galicia is in the air. And it is that the wife of Jesus is Galician (Lucense) and it shows that the Terras Gauda and the Rosal wines run through the veins of this coquettish corner.
Bread and Wine: little more to add
But the end of the day is near. And the finishing touch must always be put on La Gustava. Since Gustavo and Olga they open the doors of this bar at number 2, they automatically leave the doors of their house open and they make you feel like one. Cane in between, Gustavo tells how taking a year and three months “The good vibes are breathed among the 'pesetas', the 'bivoladors'... everyone” . A week ago they celebrated the party 'Operación Departures' and now they are trying to come up with a delicious and cheap menu to celebrate the new year at La Gustava.
And what is there to ask La Gustava? Olga replies “the baby squid croquettes, the tuna loin salad and tomato jam and the mini-hamburgers are a hit... nothing at all!”. And the cane on duty, of course. Especially if it gets dark and from the house of Las Gustavas and the big house that is the Novitiate, you have to leave. Until the next day.
*** You may also be interested in...**
- Madrid with a magnifying glass: Gabriel Lobo street
- All the articles of María F. Carballo
The finishing touch: La Gustava