The Sevillian essence: between squares and beers
They will have recommended you so many sites, nooks and crannies and places to visit in Seville that, when you plant yourself there, you don't know where to start. That is why we recommend the best of the best, to leave you with a very good taste in your mouth, one of those that make you come back almost unconsciously.
Of all the things in the world, I miss smell lady night down the street orange blossom in the corners and color in the sky. Flowers in the patios and sunsets of shared guitars . A city of sunbeams, secrets, flamenco and passion. A Giralda watches people laugh out loud and look up at him with an infected pride. Because all is peace and delight here, on the terraces, on the roofs so full of people always. Of people who, loving their city, understand how life happens, in any place in this world, that has nothing to envy to any other place. A place that the last thing it is, is 'anyone'.
Plaza of Spain in Seville
"When I still didn't live here, I used to come in the spring, Easter or at the Fair, and as soon as I got off the plane, I would take the motorcycle and go to the center to smell Seville. By that time the orange blossom had burst and flooded the streets of Seville, also full of orange trees", Carmen tells Traveler.es, one more in love with the land; a few words in which we realize that that is Seville, its smell, its atmosphere, its life and the unconditional love of its people.
We assume that They will have told you a thousand times about the Sevillian essence and of how this Andalusian capital changes a little to everyone who visits it every time. If you meet any of the inhabitants, they usually cannot hide that honor and pride of being part of a land that has better luck with the sun than some envious northerners.
Looking at Triana
THIS IS 'LA ROUTE', IN BIG CAPITAL LETTERS
We start with the tranquility of María Luisa Park that ends in the famous and majestic Spain Square , in which you will not be able to avoid looking for your province represented for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. Here they have recorded scenes from movies like Star Wars or The Dictator.
With its semi-elliptical shape, it represents the embrace between the old metropolis and its colonies. Also, the building is oriented towards the Guadalquivir: it is not trivial, it is the place from which the trip to America is undertaken.
we keep walking towards the old building of the Royal Tobacco Factory (the first in Europe), now the building of the University of Seville, to continue along the Murillo Gardens that are separated by a wall from the Real Alcázar of Seville that we will reach later.
Maria Luisa Park, Seville
We leave the gardens for the exit that leads to Plaza de Alfaro , one of the first corners where we started our crush of love with the Barrio de Santa Cruz, the Jewish quarter that used to be one of the limits of the walled city.
A neighborhood in which to get lost, wander around drinking water alley, through which the old canal passed, spy behind bars some of its famous Andalusian patios, watch old cellars that breathe an Andalusian atmosphere such as ** Las Teresas or Las Brujas **, included in most of the gastronomic routes.
And so, reviving the places where Zorrilla placed his Don Juan Tenorio, like the Plaza de los Refinadores, we allow ourselves to be captivated by a neighborhood that, Despite being extremely touristy today, it is still the deep Seville for which we will surely hear some strummed guitar that will make us close our eyes and bring us back that peace that that slow Sevillian life boasts.
In every corner of the Cruz neighborhood, an orange tree and whitewashed walls
Seville has something, yes, "that only Seville has", and that is its small squares, hidden squares, charming corners that are difficult to find but if you end up reaching them they fill you with emotion. El Pali already said it , popular singer and composer of sevillanas, with his song 'Ay... las plazuelas!'.
The Santa Cruz neighborhood is full of these mysterious places , highlight the Dona Elvira Square , the Santa Marta Square (the drama tells that Don Juan Tenorio kidnapped his beloved Doña Inés there), the School of Christ Square wave Crosses Square.
Leave the Santa Cruz neighborhood through the passage of the Jewish quarter - photo required.
East overlooks the Patio de las Banderas, also known as "the patio of the orange trees" and in which the picture from the door with the Giralda behind is wonderful . Quite a surprise for someone who does not expect to find themselves when crossing the arch that leads to the Triumph Square that greatness of a cathedral that presumes to be the most Gothic cathedral with the largest area in the world, the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See.
The square where we find ourselves at Christmas is decorated with poinsettias and there are normally Carriages of precious and well-cared horses that invite you to make a route with flamenco rattle . What to say if the time coincides with the Fair and all these horses are also dressed in the flamenco masterwork, with bobbins and colorful bridles and quijeras.
On the left we have the Reales Alcázares, worthy of admiration, nooks and crannies of a mixture of mainly Mudejar art, but also Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque, of those that still remain in Spanish territory.
Patios and gardens in which to spend hours . scenes from the movie Elizabeth I and Game of Thrones chose these prints to leave your mark.
On leaving we walked towards the cathedral and from outside we can see a copy of the Giraldillo more closely and we pass by the old Archivo de Indias. Today it is the largest archive in Spain on the history of our country in America and the Philippines, with around 43,000 documents, 80 million pages and 8,000 maps.
The Giraldillo
This, along with the cathedral and the Alcázar, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site_._ Or we can go around the cathedral to look out the gate of forgiveness and observe the courtyard of the Cathedral.
We have two options here, continue moving towards Plaza Nueva to observe its magnificent façade or go back to Puerta Jerez. Although we can give us a break in the best winery in the Santa Cruz neighborhood, on the corner of Rodrigo Caro street, the always very crowded and best winery in Santa Cruz par excellence: ** Las Columnas .** It is one of the most mythical. Although it is almost always full, that atmosphere overflowing with people toasting with beers and the waiter writing down the bill with chalk on the table, makes you feel like one of the others.
To try? A 'mountain of pringá', It may not sound familiar to you now, but once you try it you will never forget it.
Or also near the Cathedral, we have two terraces from which we get the best panoramic and privileged views of the Giralda: ** The Pura Vida terrace ** or the Terrace of the Hotel EME , or near the Town Hall on the other side of Plaza Nueva, in Plaza San Francisco, a place where they sell one of Seville's typical sweets: the famous Ines Rosales cakes .
If we go back to Sherry gate, we can see **on one side the majestic Hotel Alfonso XIII **, recognized in most of the lists of best hotels, for later continue along Almirante Lobo street with the Torre del Oro in the background. Legends say that it is called that because of two theories: Being Seville a port of trade with the Americas, it is said that they kept a large part of the gold there but there are others who prefer the most romantic version that the sun rising from the east completely illuminated the tower, and reflected its stone looking like gold.
What we are sure of is that starting with her A walk along the banks of the Guadalquivir is not to be missed to end up in Bridge of the Catholic Monarchs with the shore of ** Triana opposite ** and its acclaimed pattern of colorful houses.
Life on the streets of Seville and on its terraces is much better
We can cross to the Triana neighborhood and in Pagés del Corro street, try the best shrimp omelettes What will you try in your life? the tie , along with a sliced tuna fillet. we rise the busy calle Betis and we return to the center along the Paseo de los Reyes Católicos. not without before contemplate the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza which is located on the same avenue of the new Seville as they call it, the neighborhood facing Triana.
This would be the walk that you have to do yes or yes, but since you will have done it with so much pleasure without stopping, Surely you have plenty of time to do other things. What is absolutely lossless is simply wander through the streets of the center of Seville, as well as through its shopping streets: Sierpes, Campana, Tetuán and Cuna.
shrimp omelette
In addition, we offer you a challenge: count how many bars there can be in a street , even in the narrowest. One near these shopping streets that we love for its decoration, is the Courtyard of San Eloy, the one near the Plaza del Duque, which has tiled steps to sit down and enjoy montaditos and beer galore.
Strolling through Seville will take you to our favorite fry restaurant in downtown, El Salvador, of which its years speak for themselves, if we move further away Mara Restaurant, with an excellent quality and reputation, to take **adobo in the fundamental Blanco Cerillo **, in a side street of Tetuán, to have a Solera wine with ortiguillas at Bodega Góngora, or to the Winery Antonio Romero El Piripi.
the perfect still life
Observe all the churches, such as Santa María la Blanca, **climb to Las Setas**, where from above you can see the different towers and bell towers of Seville, and in its depths there are archaeological remains.
Or if we want to end our route with a more alternative Seville, but the best in what is different, we can eat at **the vegetarian with retro and vintage decoration No place**, or relax reading in the La Caótica cafeteria, while we choose to delude ourselves more into the Sevillian atmosphere and read books that the city chose to set their novel, such as Revenge in Seville by Matilde Asensi drum skin by Arturo Perez Reverte, Rinconete and Cortadillo by Miguel de Cervantes or shortly the next novel by Ken Follet.
We dined at a restaurant (or three) - the trendy new restaurant chain in black sheep with the mamarracha either the chunga . Or the Lena al Lomo restaurant in Progreso street, the best meat in Seville without a doubt.
To end the day, the best plan is relaxation and silence in the Arab baths of Aire Sevilla. End of a perfect day.