Triana, old but modern
If we want to define Triana we have to resort to Triana adjective and, with that, make a linguistic trap. This **neighbourhood of Seville ** is self-explanatory. We could say that it is an extract from Seville or its most gypsy neighborhood and in both cases we would be wrong. Triana is from Triana . Spot.
Part of its charm consists, not only in not ceasing to be, but to be consistent . Therefore, it resists change; not just anyone, but change for change's sake. Triana moves when she wants without betraying her trianerismo. Every move here has more merit than in more liquid places. In these lines we celebrate that new Triana that exists and moves forward . It exists, yes.
The narrow streets of the Triana neighborhood
To begin with, let's get to Triana through the least topical point and, again, making another trap. Let's cross the Puppy Bridge , unmistakable with its small awnings. On the right we have the Cartuja Island ; on the left, the Triana less frequented by travelers . Right here are happening (and this gerund is good news) the most interesting changes in the neighborhood.
The catch is that we are going to consider Triana something that, if we are orthodox, it is not: the Island of the Cartuja . However, due to geography and proximity, it is included here; also because in this area there is something that moves a lot.
Here is the less traditional Seville and also the most criticized . That is why it deserves our visit. We start the walk with a prestigious bathroom that always encourages. The CaixaForum , a work by Vázquez Consuegra, has been chosen a few months after being built E Building of the Year at the Building of the Year Awards 2018 , summoned by archdaily . It is the only Spanish project on the list.
Artwork by Vazquez Consuegra
It stands out for its aluminum foam cover and its underground access in a city where the most important things happen always in the light of day . The Caixaforum has a good calendar of exhibitions and completes the cultural offer of this area, represented by the Navigation Pavilion and the CAAC , the Andalusian Center for Contemporary Art ; is the new Golden Mile of the city . This concentration of spaces shows that there is life beyond the center. For that axis movement alone it deserves attention.
The Caixaforum belongs to the architectural complex called Seville Tower ; includes the skyscraper of the same name, a public park called Magellan and projected also by Vazquez Consuegra , and a large shopping center built under the principles of sustainable architecture. The great tower is the work of César Pelli and, after raising blisters, its 180.5 meters are already accepted as part of the city's silhouette.
Andalusian Center for Contemporary Art
Within her, literally, is the Eurostars Seville Tower, one of the few hotels that are crossing the Guadalquivir from Seville . This hotel has five stars, occupies thirteen floors and soon it will have six more.
It would be a good hotel in any other part of the city, but here it offers unusual views; there is no other place in the city that has them and, not only for height, but for location. It offers a gazebo with a 360º view of the city, a refined design, a cocktail bar, a restaurant, the goblin , and the possibility of relaxing in the spa seeing the whole city in the background.
It seems the natural destination for many business travelers and those without vertigo who have already slept in the center of Seville and want to explore other angles. Here, the photo and the wow effect are assured.
Amazing views from Triana
EAT AND DINNER IN TRIANA
Made the trick of including the Cartuja in Triana, let's be good and cross the neighborhood-neighborhood . We are in the ** Paseo de la O **, one of the least trodden and most beautiful in the city. In it there are runners, neighbors and hardly any tourists. There is Of the O .
This restaurant can only be accessed from the promenade or through a triana alley . It is the project of architect Manuel Llerena and it stands out from the rest of Triana (and Seville) for its architecture and interior design, a cross between the Scandinavian and the…trianarian.
Llerena worked with Ángel León in Aponiente and from there she brought the taste for the sea . Here you can eat original cuisine with local products, and in many cases from the neighborhood itself. It is one of the few places (although it seems strange) to eat grilled fish. The atmosphere in De la O is calm, enjoyable. Its terrace, with views of the river and the trees, further enhances the experience.
The restaurant of the architect Manuel Llerena draws attention for its vertical garden
Near this restaurant, walking along the river, we reach the Triana Bridge . There is the famous **Market** of the same name. It is what we expect: a market with local flavor and with the right touch, without excesses, of gourmetization . Goodness. There are Japanese cuisine and oyster stalls and the people of the neighborhood still do their daily shopping here. It is compatible and that is why it is interesting.
In front of the market is ** María Trifulca .** This restaurant, being on the river, is another place with privileged views. You can go up to the terrace and have dinner there any night of good weather (there are hundreds during the year) or you can stay at the bar and order a wine and some lemon anchovies while looking towards the other bank of the river. That you see in the background is Seville.
Let's leave the Guadalquivir and the bridge and let's get into Triana Let's see what he tells us again. Two steps from Altozano, the first little square we come across, is the Manu Jara's pastry . This Frenchman settled in Seville ( with slight resemblance to Marc Jacobs ) has shaken up the local gastro scene by giving prominence to desserts.
Here you can eat the best croissants in town , made with butter from Normandy. as expected of someone trained in France; but Jara also cultivates the local confectionery and does it gracefully; His business has expanded to other parts of the city for a reason. The local Triana, called The candy store It is the one with the most charm. An advice: you have to aspire well, as if we were, in yoga, when entering. The aroma is pure well-being.
The best croissants in the city are bought in Triana
Let's leave the cakes and talk about ceramics. You can't talk about Triana without mentioning her. This has always been a neighborhood of potters; Triana pottery has its own personality. It has traditionally been for domestic and local use and today interior designers all over the world raffle it.
A few months ago he opened the Ceramic Center , a project of AF6 Architects , located in the old factory of Santa Ana. This place celebrates this form of craft from its very heart. Here there are historic kilns, relevant pieces and many clues to understand the importance of this very…Triana trade. Let's buy some souvenir piece with the promise of using it and lets keep walking.
OF TAPAS IN TRIANA
Culture, we already know, awakens hunger. Let's go for tapas; of typical tapas. For that we turn the san jacinto street and let's get into Typical. The name is very clear: here there is no pad thai or gyozas, but typical kitchen. Behind is the hotel group Life in Tapas , creators of places like Nazca, Lobo López or Chifa Tapas. grace is that Tipico is not a typical bar, although it has a typical format (long live the bar) and we feel the tongue twister. It is a bar of the present that knows how to be modern and, you have found out, from Triana.
In this neighborhood there are many bars from yesterday, today, always, a lot of local commerce (here Amancio is neither here nor is he expected) and… few hotels. In addition to the Eurostar and the Hotel Ribera de Triana (eye, with pool) we found a rarity: Triana House .
It is by size and by concept: it has no restaurant or reception and is only found if you know . It only has six rooms and it is hidden in a street parallel to the river. It has been decorated by Amaro Sanchez de Moya and it has details such as ceramic headboards, cups from La Cartuja and its own aroma of orange blossom, jasmine and tuberose that is sold in the form of candles. The owners (a discreet family that supervises everything to the millimeter) plan to expand it. We will remain vigilant.
Three rooms and a unique experience in Triana
We will finish this walk through the new Triana from a logical place: the shore of the Guadalquivir . we'll do it in Rio Grande , one of the most classic restaurants in the city and that it is here because it renews its terrace. A meal, a sunset or a night in this place eating fried fish and seasoned tomato guarantees a good photo. And, above all, a good memory. That's what we travel for.