The hidden treasure of the Aragonese lands
In these winter months, Aragón smells of truffles. And we warn you that it will be necessary to take out the agenda. Appointments around this highly perfumed fungus are multiplying in these weeks throughout the territory.
markets where to buy fresh truffles like Graus, truffle farming fairs like that of Sarrión, routes to discover the truffle in the restaurants of Zaragoza or ** Gastronomic days of the Black Truffle of Teruel ** are some of the events in which the autonomous community shows muscle as a great producer of this delicacy.
Each year Aragon produces approximately about 30 tons of black truffle of the 150 at most that are collected around the world.
There are two main production poles: the region of Gúdar-Javalambre in the province of Teruel and of Ribagorza in Huesca, in addition to other areas that are standing out: Moncayo, Maestrazgo, Matarraña or even Jiloca.
And it is that the 10,000 hectares planted in Aragon represent almost a fifth of the hectares of cultivation of this fungus throughout the planet.
BURIED TREASURES
The black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) is a fungus as prized as it is mysterious. It can appear both spontaneously (wild truffle) or not bear fruit in a plantation in which all the details have been taken care of.
The cultivation of the black truffle continues to hide secrets from the most veteran truffle growers. This precious fungus needs to be associated with the roots of some trees, such as oaks, holm oaks or hazelnuts, to grow by establishing a beneficial symbiosis with them.
Very sensitive to the rainfall regime, the black truffle and other somewhat inferior varieties such as the Tuber brumale have found in the cold Aragonese lands a place where they feel comfortable.
Buried a few inches underground, their presence is betrayed by the so-called “bald spots”, that is, small circles at ground level in which the vegetation disappears. But even this clue can lead us astray.
Truffle growers need the powerful animal nose of trained dogs to locate each of the pieces.
On the hunt for the black truffle!
A PIONEERING TRUFFLE TASTING PANEL
In Teruel the world's first Truffle Tasting Panel promoted by the Center for Research and Agrifood Technology of Aragon (CITA) and the Association of Teruel Truffle Producers (ATRUTER).
And how to evaluate such a product? If it meets the basic requirements of maturity and good general condition, what makes the difference is The fragance.
Each of them, even if they have been collected a few centimeters away, is capable of developing different aromas: some discreet and others downright intoxicating.
This Panel has identified some as the sulfur, the black olives, the memories of mushrooms or nuts and the notes of butter.
There were no precedents and for this reason the work led by the researcher from the University of Zaragoza, Pedro Marco, has been arduous and has involved sommeliers, perfumers and those who know the most about truffles: the truffle growers.
It is in their hands to certify the best specimens, train the producers themselves and give the necessary recognition to an incomparable product.
THE TRUFFLE ON THE PLATE
the truffle is a most desired seasoning, not so much for its properties or composition as for its aromatic capacity.
His greatest quality is the ability to create superlative dishes from modest ingredients: potatoes, rice or a simple fried egg are your best companions.
To appreciate it in all its splendor you have to avoid long cooking times and ingredients that can rival its aromatic power: garlic or vinegar, for example.
Croquettes with grated truffle from the ARP restaurant, in Benabarre (Huesca)
A freshly harvested truffle is preserved at most two weeks in the fridge. Stored in an airtight container, in three days a truffle the size of a walnut is capable of flavoring a dozen eggs.
will hold up very well rolled in a mild extra virgin olive oil in a jar and also submerged in brandy.
A seasonal product much appreciated in French cuisine that arouses more and more curiosity among gourmets and that represents a very interesting economic activity in areas plagued by depopulation.
Tuber melanosporum is the black heart that beats hidden in the lands of Aragon.
Graus Market