Garajonay: almost Jurassic
This landscape of the Tertiary Era (so that we understand each other, that of the first mammals that replaced the, already extinct, giant lizards) overwhelms by its contrasts and by its almost mythological aspect . Since there is no fear, we venture to see if we find any velociraptor that has defied the fateful fate of its species.
The beauty of La Gomera is directly proportional to the meters of altitude covered . Although it has some natural monuments on its coast (such as Los Órganos), what is truly beautiful is gained by climbing through its steep and bare ravines, until reaching 700 meters above the recently abandoned sea level. Until then there are only curves and more curves, with the exception of some viewpoint that opens in the gutters to offer the views of the sea with neighboring Teide in the background . The visitors' faces fill with annoyance, with a slightly angry feeling of scam: "Are we coming by ferry from Tenerife to see it from afar?" Little thing.
However, without eating or drinking it, up the hill, the dry moors begin to fill with palm trees first and the dense green landscapes of the laurisilva later . As if it were the story of the ugly duckling, the visitor discovers, admired, that before him a dense green swan opens , culminated by the exuberant volcanic massifs. And, with this promise on the horizon, you reach the Degollada de Peraza, just before entering the park. In this viewpoint, the natural line that separates the barren from the leafy can be perfectly observed (as long as the fog respects it).
dense green landscapes
The park takes its name from Garajonay, the highest peak on the island , which is close to 1,500 meters. In turn, and how could it be otherwise in this magical place, this peculiar name comes from a legend of those of tragic love , of those that transcend generations and leave the most innocent speechless.
They say that Gara, a Guanche girl (former aboriginal inhabitants of Tenerife) from the island, and Jonay, a handsome man from Tenerife, met at a party and fell in love. So far everything is normal, one could say that it is a custom that is still very common and settled in the social life of the 21st century. But on this love fell the curse of Teide, which, upon learning of it, erupted . And of course, the respective in-laws did not want to tempt the gods of fire, so they were forbidden to see each other again. So Jonay, who was not satisfied with the women on his island, crossed to La Gomera to see his beloved. When they were discovered, both fled to the highest peak where they took their own lives. Since then this place has been baptized with his name. The end.
Once the visitor knows a little about the legend, it is time to soak up the palpable history and enter the park to learn what were the landscapes like before the appearance of hominids . And this natural area, a World Heritage Site since 1986, welcomes you with a whole display of original mountain formations : they are the roques, which are presented here in a different way than they are in the rest of the Canary Islands. Unlike the nakedness and redness of their neighbors, the rocks of Garajonay are slender pointed shapes of a grayish tone, dressed up to the head in an intense green. The three most characteristic ones received a name each: Agando, Zarcita and Ojila, affectionate denominations that any pet could receive, which shows the appreciation of the locals for these clubs.
tendril
But what makes this park really special is its Laurisilva, a forest that covered all of Europe in the Tertiary, in which various types of evergreen trees can be identified. To admire it is to contemplate a unique forest due to its length and because it is a prehistoric ecosystem . For this reason, it was one of the first spaces in Spain to be declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, since its ecological and historical value is incomparable . It is the spitting image of what our continent could have been if it had not undergone any change since then.
What is the secret of his eternal youth? It's simple: La Gomera is the quietest island in the archipelago, the one that has suffered the least seismic activity in recent millennia. That, together with its calm climate and the low voracity of man, has made this crown, which populates the heart of the island, become a perfect time capsule , unaware of the changes.
Obviously, you don't need to have read Wikipedia to enjoy the nature of this park. its almost 4,000 hectares of extension are crossed by dream trails that make their way between endemic trees. The aspect of its great forest is almost mythological and many times the visitor almost expects Gandalf the White or Robin Hood to appear mounted on a pristine steed. The fog that usually resides in its mountains accentuates this sensation. To enjoy it 100% you have to touch the moss that perches on the branches , get lost along the delimited paths until you hear nothing but the wind between the treetops and a rubber tree whistling in the distance.
For those who fear the thicket, there is the Laguna Grande, a recreational space located in an old crater. It is the only enclave in the park that recalls the volcanic origin of the island . In its brown plain there are rest areas and swings for children, as well as being the starting point for paths without loss that allow you to get an idea of what the forests are like without fear of getting disoriented. In the center of the Lagoon there are some stones arranged in the shape of a circle, **a mini Stonehenge** (saving a lot of distances) with a rock in the middle that, it is said, has the power to help young women get pregnant. So be careful, lest some girl (or “mullalla”, as they pronounce it on these islands) make a mistake and mix rest with a surprise at nine months.
The arrival of the Garajo-night (it would be a great name for any pub) is announced with the last orange rays of the sun sneaking through the dense forests , shading the rocks and saying goodbye to hikers descending the highway (so called ironically because of its twisty curves and the narrowness of its road).
oh! the closest thing to a velociraptor that can be found here are the giant lizards , scary and harmless animals that run around freely and that can give some sustenance due to their ability to appear anywhere. Their dark complexion makes them seem friendly and elusive, although the level of interactivity with humans is zero.