Cobo Strata
Almost everyone knows that in Burgos there is an imposing jewel of european gothic in the form of a cathedral. However, there are many who are unaware that this city had the honor of being Spanish Capital of Gastronomy in 2013 and, in addition, it is together with Denia, one of the only two Spanish representatives in the list of the Network of Creative Cities of Gastronomy , produced by UNESCO.
To become part of this select world club, it is necessary to demonstrate that the candidate has a gastronomic project of great value, in which innovative cuisine is perfectly combined with traditional cuisine, using products of the land and promoting the local and sustainable economy to create a wide range of inspiring culinary offerings.
Yes, it's easy to find a roast suckling lamb and a rice blood sausage of great quality in Burgos, but much more than that is cooked in the kitchens of its restaurants. And it is that gastronomy, after all, is part of the culture of any destination. Each bite tells an interesting story of the place. And in Burgos they have always been specialists in narrating stories of unparalleled feats.
HEROES AND MICHELIN STARS
An indisputable protagonist of the epic history of Burgos is Don Rodrigo Diaz de Vivar, better known by the nickname "The Campeador Cid" . His remains rest, along with those of his beloved Doña Jimena, inside the monumental Burgos Cathedral. To see the great gentleman from Burgos with a much more fearsome and imposing bearing, it is necessary to walk to the equestrian statue which was erected, in bronze, in the middle of the 20th century next to the waters of the Arlanzón River.
A few meters from it, in the central Plaza de La Libertad, the Chef Miguel Cobo – First participant of the Topchef Spain television contest to obtain a Michelin star with his subsequent personal project, Cobo Vintage– he has just opened a complete gastronomic space, Cobo Estratos, which houses two restaurants with independent kitchens: Cobo Tradition and Cobo Evolution.
Even Will we have to wait a few months to be able to test the daring proposals –based on the history of the evolution of man– of Cobo Evolución, but in Cobo Tradition you can already taste a tasty, simple and close cuisine , in which the flavor and quality of the product prevail. Thus, dishes such as the classic grilled black pudding from Burgos, accompanied by roasted peppers and fleur de sel; the organic beef jerky ; the stewed lamb legs old-fashioned; and the truffled beef meatball in its sauce with mashed Robuchon, are some of its most successful dishes.
Legs of suckling lamb stewed in the old way
STROLLING THROUGH THE HISTORICAL CENTER
Another evolution is found on the ** opposite bank of the Arlanzón **, where the famous sword – called 'Tizona' – wielded by the statue of El Cid points out: human evolution. The Museum of Human Evolution is one of the best archaeological museums in Spain , and it recreates the scenery of the important finds made in the nearby Sierra de Atapuerca , where the remains of what could have been the first European human appeared.
Crossing over the river again, you arrive at the most beautiful of the access gates to medieval Burgos: the Arch of Santa Maria . After passing under it, you access a historic center in which a tangle of narrow alleys start from a main nucleus: the Main Square . Also known as the Plaza del Mercado Menor –because, since the late Middle Ages, basic necessities were traded here and popular festivities were held–, it overlooks old houses with colorful facades and the aroma of good Burgos cuisine assaults to the many travelers who walk towards the nearby cathedral.
And it is that close to it are gastronomic jewels, such as La Favorita. housed in an old house Rustic in appearance, with exposed brick and sturdy exposed wooden beams, this place offers a excellent montadito of sirloin with foie , tasty chops suckling lamb and some anchovies grilled, with onion confit over charcoal and peppers, which take away the meaning.
Not far from there, the brewery Morito is the perfect place to drink some beers, or wines , to accompany the caloric festival that its delicious black pudding, patatas bravas, eggs with chorizo, ribs or its magnificent ham espadrilles. It is difficult to find another place with better value for money in Burgos.
On Avellanos street, Bocalobo presents an original decoration, with trees that seem to emerge from its high tables, and Varied, elaborate and high quality portions , highlighting its spectacular torrijas.
SAN LORENZO STREET, TEMPLE OF BURGALESE BARS
Starting from the Plaza Mayor, Calle San Lorenzo is also known by the name of Los Herreros, since that was the guild that inhabited it in medieval times. Today, it is another guild, that of the hoteliers, which has taken the street by storm.
It is worth stopping at La Quinta del Monje, which offers a miniature market kitchen , proposing very original tapas made with traditional ingredients. An example is the deconstruction of truffled egg with foie and boletus.
Just beside, the lorencita you can boast of your winning skewers of the first tapas prize in San Pedro (a distinguished trophy in Burgos). One of them, the cod belly confit in olive oil with boletus and hazelnut oil is one of those preferred by regular customers. Lovers of the classics will be attracted to El Pez de San Lorenzo, a store that tries to maintain the aura of the old grocery stores, allowing the customer to try the high-quality products they have for sale at the bar, accompanied by of a good vermouth.
It's time to digest all these tasty food walking through the tree-lined Paseo del Espolón , for centuries one of the favorite places for those from Burgos who couldn't find a better plan than wandering around admiring the monumental beauty of the city in which they lived. A monumental capital in which gastronomy has always wanted to be the protagonist.