A city as magical as it is chaotic
How can so many cultures come together within their borders? So much tradition and at the same time the most rabid actuality? Halfway between Asia and Europe, between the Marmara and the Black Sea... istanbul It is a city between two worlds, a place as magical as it is chaotic in which to spend 48 unforgettable hours.
DAY 1
morning
Arriving in Istanbul can be shocking. In addition to its infinite beauty, there is something that especially attracts attention. As soon as you get off the plane and start on your way to your destination, you will come face to face with one of its biggest problems: the traffic . At all hours, everywhere. But what can we ask of a city with 15 million inhabitants ?
After the bad drink, the time has come to enjoy. We will not talk about what you have to visit, you can find that in any travel guide. The Blue Mosque, the Grand Bazaar, Hagia Sophia, the Topkapi Palace, the impressive Cisterns ... They are all a must see.
Here we go to mingle with your people. We are going to eat a kebab in a stall that is more than 40 years old, have dinner on a terrace with the best views of the city, have drinks and, ultimately, to experience the city like a local.
There will be sightseeing, yes
To the market
Whether you decide -that you should- do the usual tourist visits, or if you prefer to experience the most authentic Istanbul, our first stop will have to do with shopping . But with what the locals do.
First of all, very close to the well-known Grand Bazaar, is the Spice Bazaar. Here you can get a stash of typical sweets, nuts and, of course, spices. The best thing is that in almost all the stalls they vacuum pack what you buy, so you will have no problem bringing it back.
Another interesting market is that of Besikta fish . Under a triangular structure of steel and concrete, and resolved with great architectural mastery, it was conceived to revitalize the commercial area of the neighborhood. Open every day and it is worth going to gossip.
kebab baby
Ok, there are hundreds of döner in Istanbul, but one particularly caught our attention: Asim Ustanin Yeri . They've been around meat since 1973 (new every day, of course). And if a local carries more than 40 years in operation , it will be because they do it well, right?
A giant döner and next to it, working, a short and older man. He is Asim. He has been at the foot of the canyon since they opened his modest local in Besiktas and has become a legendary character in the neighborhood. They prepare the pitas and the durum at home, and every day long queues form to get the dream snack. Go eat, because the meat usually runs out around 5:00 p.m. And we don't want you to run out of your kebab!
Spice Bazaar
Afternoon: have a coffee in the university neighborhood
Crossing to the Asian part of the city, we meet one of the most bohemian and stimulating neighborhoods in the city . Is about Besiktas , the student district of Istanbul. Getting lost in its streets or stopping to have a restorative coffee can be one of the best ideas you have to spend the afternoon.
There we discover countless cafes where you can enjoy the comings and goings of people. Our favourite? just _(Alaybeyi Street,17) _. They opened not more than a year ago, in a tiny place with a few tables on the terrace, upstairs, and a small room with armchairs, downstairs.
The waiters are hipsters to say the least, the music that plays through the speakers could not be more fun and what about the cafes. The site has rollazo. They have their own blend with coffees from Kenya, Costa Rica and other coffee nationalities, they roast them themselves and prepare delicious Turkish coffee, filtered coffee, with ice, cold brew and 'in da house' specialties such as After Eight or Cascada.
right in front is Mambocino , from the same owner and just as good. If you can't find a place in one, go to the other.
Just a 10-minute walk away, you will find Deal Coffee Roasters 41 _(Yıldız Cd. No:41) _, another essential in the neighborhood. A cup of coffee, a slice of Nutella cake and we fix the day.
Just, coffee to taste
when night falls
Contrary to what it may seem, Istanbul is a vibrant city at night. Are you willing to delve into the Turkish meat?
We started with a tall dinner. And we refer to height, both gastronomic and location. To do this, we head to Neolocal _(Bankalar Cd. No:11) _ of the chef Maksut Askar. He is an expert in the local cuisine of his land, hatay . This province is one of the places with the most gastronomic tradition in Anatolia.
In their menus they merge Mesopotamian, Anatolian, Arabic and Mediterranean cuisine , of course. Starting from the Turkish tradition, Askar has prepared dishes with very current culinary techniques. The hummus with fermented herbs it is to cry of good. Another essential dish is Katmer & Tirit, beef with duck juice, pistachio filo pastry, yogurt and tarhana cream . They have a tasting menu to share, which is the best option so you don't miss an iota of their cuisine.
Fancy a drink? We propose two essential sites. For this we moved to the district of Karakoy . First of all, visit mitte (Kemankeş Mah, Necatibey Cd. 66/A). Yes, like the Berlin neighborhood.
In this place, Taner Ozkan, barman and ideologue of all his signature cocktails, he puts into practice what he learned during his training in the United Kingdom and Norway. he has distilled his own vodkas, he smokes some cocktails, others he frames within the molecular stream... Pure alchemy.
In second place, Finn Karakoy _(Süleymaniye Mahallesi, Necatibey Cd. No:8) _ , in the same area as the previous one, has more than 60 different types of cocktails that change with the season.
Mitte, pure cocktail alchemy
DAY 2
Morning: walking around Bebek
Taking a cruise on the Bosphorus, something catches our eye. There, as far as the eye can see, we see an area that could pass for being the French Riviera or any coastal town. It is Bebek, one of the jewels of the city. He is famous for the number of cafes and restaurants that crowd the boardwalk.
Strolling along the strait is the best way we can think of to escape the Turkish hubbub. This is the plan: have a drink in front of the sea, the best marzipan in town at Bebek Badem Ezmecisi _(Bebek Mh., Cevdet Paşa Cd. 53/C) _ or simply get carried away by the good vibes that floats in the environment...
Eat. Come on. explore
Do you want to eat like a local? Join one of Istanbul on Food's food tours. This group of gastronomy enthusiasts has hit the nail on the head. To share is to live. And they have created a series of experiences that combine cuisine and culture.
From the taste of the two continents to the flavors of the old city, passing through the most succulent street food. You will taste typical dishes in the best shops and restaurants in the city and you will discover a new vision told by experts in the field. Does anyone give more?
The French Riviera? Nope! istanbul
Afternoon: Hammam time
We couldn't leave the city without trying one of the most popular beauty and relaxation treatments in the world, the hammam or Turkish bath.
What could be better than enjoying the benefits of these centennial Ottoman baths for a few hours? Therefore, we recommend you visit one of the most special in the city. Ayasofya Hurrem Sultan Hamami _(Cankurtaran Mh., Ayasofya Meydanı No:2) _, located very close to Hagia Sophia, exudes oriental luxury from all sides.
It was built in 1556 as a gift from Suleiman the Magnificent to his wife. It consists of a cold room, a warm room and a hot room. The first is to relax before bathing, drink a sherbet (fruit juice) and rejoice at such an architectural marvel. The second is where the exfoliation ritual is performed; and in the third, where they wash you after the hammam. You will leave there refreshed.
You will leave here renewed
Night: women take the controls
In recent years, there has been a movement in which women have raised their voices and have been at the helm of many restaurants in the country.
It is the case of Ebru Baybara who leads the initiative Harran Gastronomy School Project . Through this project in Harran (southern Turkey), Turkish and Syrian refugee women work side by side, thanks to cooking training.
Back in Istanbul, we suggest you go to Nicole _(Tomtom Mahallesi, Tomtom Kaptan Sk. No:18) _ , in front of which is chef Aylin Yazıcıoğlu.
Born and raised in Istanbul, Yazıcıoğlu has strong French influences, as she studied at a French school and traveled all over the world.
His quirk of her? Every six weeks they change the menu . That gives them the opportunity to use the products when they are at their best. The cuisine is Turkish, with strong flavors, use of spices, but also with important French and Mediterranean influences. The best thing is to let yourself go and order one of the restaurant's tasting menus. You will not fail.
Nicole, Turkish cuisine with strong flavors