Anafi: we reveal the best kept secret of the Cyclades
Do not try to count the islands that Greece is home to, you will lose count and have to start over. Just in the Cyclades archipelago there are more than 200, where Santorini stands as the jewel in the crown, and Mykonos, as the most hedonistic twin sister.
You will have heard of them (if you have not already visited them). Both are chosen by tourists to spend some authentic sun and beach vacation Greek: two million people visit it a year. Beauties of the Aegean Sea , of volcanic origin, with authentic, arid beaches, crystal clear waters and… especially crowded with umbrellas . However, not far from there, just an hour and a half by boat, is a little oasis from mass tourism , a little respite from the souvenir shops, the bars with happy hour and the hotels called 'Olympo'. His name is Anafi and, although little by little its secret is revealed, it is still a piece of land willing to preserve its authenticity.
Anafi or the Greece of the Greeks
DISCOVERING ANAFI
How unbelievably close Anafi is to Santorini and how tremendously unknown it is, are factors that make this island one of the favorites for those travelers (many of them nationals) who want to explore, contemplate and relax . The reason for his secret lies in his topography : Anafi is an island of about 40 square kilometers , small, but not at all manageable.
arid and robust , with a conical geography that makes most of its beaches are difficult to access . To get to them you must delve into their alcores and walk until you find the descent to the coast. Even, on some occasions, the boat will be the only option. Not all of them are like that, of course, but I could say, without fear of being wrong, that those hidden corners of sand and sea are what make Anafi so invaluable.
Anafi: we reveal the best kept secret of the Cyclades
We are not just talking about virgin beaches, soft sand and crystal clear water ; their walking trails penetrate into a fragrant interior where they find hills that stand proud, like vigla , -the highest mountain on the island with some 579 meters- or the monolithic Kalamos and Kastelli limestone in the deserted acropolis; country churches nestled in lonely and inaccessible places, and Chora, the only town on the island , a specimen of Cycladic architecture, a relief from the hurried life that many of us wish to escape.
CHORA, THE HEART OF THE ISLAND
You don't need more than a couple of hours to go Chora (is pronounced ' jora ’). However, you will want to repeat it as many times as possible, taking calm steps, to the rhythm of its inhabitants. Its atmosphere is bathed in the luminous blue color that interweaves the sea and the sky , and which contrasts with the white of its architecture . The city is built in the shape of an amphitheater, at an altitude of 260 meters above the sea. The print is as follows: low-rise cottages with vaulted ceilings , accommodated on slopes with slopes; patios full of flowers that are a spectacle, cobbled walkways and amazing views of the immensity of the Aegean Sea.
Unfortunately, Anafi is getting more and more abandoned . In 2011, Chora had about 400 inhabitants . Today, its population barely reaches 270 . Young people depopulate it in search of opportunities, so most of its population is retired and lives a quiet life , the same one that tourists who come to this corner of Greece are looking for for a few days; a corner with just a rent a car and few cars, two grocery stores and a tourist office that you will find many times closed. We are also forced to warn you that there is only one ATM. So, when you prepare your trip to Anafi, don't forget to take loose money with you : sometimes the cashier also runs out of stock, and although many bars and restaurants already charge with a dataphone, I do not advise you to take risks.
Where I do teach you to risk is on the restaurant menu , it is already known that Greek gastronomy is a mediterranean delight . And although it is always good to go to the popular tzatzikis (greek yogurt salads with cucumber) or moussakas , here meat lovers can enjoy the amathies , a dish consisting of pork entrails stuffed with rice and herbs ; of kavourmas , sauteed pork lung, or tsilardia Boiled pig's head with vinegar and spices. For more delicate stomachs, the fish option is always a successful one.
In the Liotrivi's tavern , they bring it to you every day freshly caught in the family boat. We also recommend you dine on fresh tuna or mussels at Armenáki , if you're lucky, a member of the restaurant's family may even start singing live traditional music.
Although small, Chora has comfortable hostels and apartments for spend the night , but without a doubt, the option of jogging it with a backpack and a tent is one of the most unforgettable yes Okay, you may be one of those who is not made for the harshness of the earth, but you cannot leave the island without at least spending one night camping on one of its beaches. Fall asleep in the light of the stars and wake up with the sunrise of this spectacular island is a mandatory experience. For me, I confess that I have not seen more starry nights than the ones I have enjoyed in Anafi.
View of Chora, in Anafi
WE DON'T FORGET THE BEACHES
The best of Anafi is spending quiet hours on its beaches . Remember that many of them are not accessible by car or motorcycle, and that you will have to walk a short -sometimes long- route to get to the place. No umbrellas, no hammocks, no bars : you are in an oasis sheltered from conventional tourism , so we recommend that you load yourself well with water, with something to eat and with LOTS of sunscreen.
The most accessible and extensive beach is that of Rokounas , the only one that has a tavern more or less close, the Poykoyna, a restaurant with a backpacker atmosphere and buffet food. Furthermore, it is also the only beach where you will find public showers (You will thank me for the information if you decide to go camping).
One of the least crowded and most picturesque is Agioi Anargyroi , a cove sheltered by a cliff at the top of which is a small sanctuary. More campers -and nudists - condense into Katsouni , one of the quietest beaches, although more difficult to access. There you will wake up with the shining sun, with the sound of the waves and maybe also with the noise made by those who will become your new friends among the bushes: some tiny and friendly lizards that will accept you a few crumbs of bread.
Agioi Beach, in Anafi
THE ISLAND WITHOUT SNAKES
If you weren't very amused about the lizards, it still comforts you to think that Anafi is a snake free island . Its name indicates it, which comes from ' An Ophis ’, in Greek ‘without snakes’ (and thank goodness!). they put it on Jason and his companions the Argonauts , sea heroes in Greek mythology.
According to legend, Jason and the Argonauts, from return from Colchis through the Aegean seas They were surprised by a great storm. Desperate, they prayed to Apollo for your salvation, so the god of Olympus shot arrows into the sea , from where an island emerged where they could take refuge from bad weather. As a thank you, the Argonauts built an altar on top of the rock of Kálamos . There they worshiped the god with some other sacrifice. The foundations of this ancient temple are found in the same place where the Kalamiotissa monastery , one of the places on the island where contemplate the aegean and imagine the marine feat that culminated in this Greek treasure that is Anafi, a secret that we share with you so that you continue to take care of it.
How to get: you can get there by ferry from Piraeus of Athens , with transshipment in the Cyclades. From Santorini there is an almost daily connection, although to return there is not as often. In total, it is a 9.5 hour boat trip if you travel from Athens and only an hour and a half if you travel from Santorini.