Somiedo: the brown bear as an excuse
Spring has reached all its splendor in the remote valleys of Somiedo, in Asturias, where the bears roam freely through the beech forests in search of honeycombs of rich honey . We humans, however, seek them out.
This idyllic corner of the Cantabrian Mountains is one of the very few places in the world where brown bears still live and can be seen. Contrary to places like Romania, where bears are lured with food, here care is taken to interfere as little as possible with nature. **To see them you need binoculars (or sharp eyes) **, a guide who knows how to track through the forest and a lot of luck. We all fantasize about it happening to us like those tourists who, in May 2008, saved a little lost bear cub. Villarina, they called her.
An idyllic horse ride
But usually their fresh footprints, or that moving blur on the other side of the gorge, are as close as you get to them. It doesn't matter either, strolling through these valleys and ravines is reward enough. To learn more about the relationship, not always friendly, that the inhabitants of the council have had with the brown bear since time immemorial, it is best to go to the interpretation center of the Brown Bear Foundation , in the village of Pola de Somiedo , where we recommend that you hire a guide to accompany you on your walk.
The council of Somiedo is criss-crossed by trails that advance through unretouched landscapes under the watchful eye of golden eagles, sparrowhawks and falcons. Apart from bears, this is home to wild boar, deer and wolves.
Along the way, the traditional cabins of teito , with its vegetal roofs of broom plant. Used to store cattle and farm implements, they are so unique to Somiedo that the City Council has converted those in the village of Las Vegas in a open-air ecomuseum.
The cows, owners of the valley
One of the most spectacular trails is the one that leads to Lake del Valle. It is easy to see chamois on the slopes that border the path and roe deer running through electric green meadows. The lake, at the foot of a glacial cirque, is the largest in the region. But he's not the only one. very close, in Salience , where the terrain bears the scars of mining, a 14 km route leads to three equally impressive lakes. It is a good place to go for a picnic. But the occasion deserves a good spoon dish, a pot of cabbage or a forceful bean stew , in the shelter of Saliencia . Without sophistication, pure good Asturian table.
One of the most spectacular trails will take you to Lake del Valle
At night, dreams are rocked by the **murmur of a stream at the Flórez Estrada palace hotel**. The relaxation and hospitality offered by this 15th century mansion is proverbial. It was the house of Álvaro Flórez Estrada, an economist, politician and poet in the time of Fernando VII. Now run by one of his descendants, Manuel Galan, offers stays of disconnection, silence and fresh air , 'Smart Vacations', and the possibility of collaborating with his NGO in Tanzania. It is one of the many secret treasures that are hidden in the valleys of Somiedo.
Florez Estrada Palace
* This article is published in the May 84 issue of the Condé Nast Traveler magazine. This number is available in its digital version for iPad in the iTunes AppStore, and in the digital version for PC, Mac, Smartphone, iPad and iPhone in the Zinio virtual kiosk (on Smartphone devices: Android, PC/Mac, Win8, WebOS, Rim, iPad, iPhone). Also, you can find us on Google Play Newsstand (for Android smartphones and tablets) .
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Flórez Estrada Hotel Swimming Pool
The valleys of Somiedo