Sweden's capital exudes a special charm. We go 48 hours to Stockholm to enjoy its 14 islands on the shores of the Baltic, culture, gastronomy and one of the liveliest lives in northern Europe.
It is impossible not to fall in love with the thousand and one charms of Stockholm. The Venice of the North , as some call it, is made up of no less than 14 islands, where something is always happening.
Majestic and modern in equal parts, the capital of Sweden is also a city in full growth and a hive of plans and trends.
You have to walk it, go by bike or by boat through its canals. Until you do it aboard your iconic subway decorated with murals.
You have to return to its colorful old town, Gamla Stan, one of the best preserved medieval historic centers on the continent, visit the Royal Palace, photograph Strandvägen boulevard again or walk through Kungsträdgården park, especially beautiful in spring.
Stockholm, Sweden
But we are not going to talk only about its tourist attractions, but we are going to focus on creating a roadmap for live the city like a local , enjoying the seasonal exhibitions, its sustainable cuisine, the growing wine bar culture and one of the most desirable hotel openings in recent months.
THE EXHIBITIONS OF THE SEASON
The city is a garden arty , with dozens of museums. And with 48 hours in Stockholm, we know that there is not enough time to visit them all. The secret? Select well before going.
For example, the large space dedicated to contemporary photography, Fotografiska, hosts until August 21 an exhibition that presents the figure of Andy Warhol beyond the lithographs of Marilyn Monroe or Campbell's Soup.
Here you can meet the man, the photographer and even the filmmaker with more than 100 photographs taken between 1960 and 1987 as a visual diary, many of them almost unpublished.
The unique iconography of the French Pierre et Gilles , halfway between history and pop culture, can be enjoyed at the Spirit Museum until September 28, while the Swedish National Museum is betting on 'Swedish Grace', an exhibition of Swedish design in the 1920s.
Avici Experience.
At the end of February opened in the city Avicii Experience, an interactive space as a tribute to the Swedish artist who left us in 2018. In this dynamic exhibition you can access the world of one of the icons of modern musical culture and learn how he created his music, as well as listen to unreleased songs and stories never told before .
SUSTAINABLE AND CUTTING EDGE GASTRONOMY
Sustainability and organic cooking are part of the Swedish character. And even more so if we set our sights on Stockholm, which has become one of the mecca of eat clean, eat green , besides being one of the greenest cities in Europe.
The city is the cradle of top restaurants as its only three stars, Frantzén, which is located in an impressive three-storey building in Norrmalm, Gastrologik, or the two stars by Anton Bjuhr, gastrology, standard-bearer of ecological and sustainable cuisine - a trend that others like oaxen krog , another of its great gastronomic restaurants.
In many of them it is practically impossible to book without a few months in advance and let's be honest, the prices of their menus make them something for very occasionally.
However, in Stockholm you can enjoy the beauty, no need to break your pocket . What's more, many of these top chefs have launched second brands that are more accessible and just as fantastic.
Interior of Brasserie Astoria.
One of them is Brasserie Astoria , the new bet by Björn Frantzén that opened just a year ago in an old cinema . The idea? An international and timeless cuisine, with touches of France and New York, dishes such as moules-frites, steak tartare or Swedish classics such as råraka, a kind of pancake with potatoes and caviar, brunch on weekends and a cocktail and wine bar.
In the premises almost next door, also in Östermalm is Schmaltz, a deli, bar and restaurant inspired by the new york jewish culture , perfect for a morning coffee, a mid-afternoon wine or to enjoy their star dishes, the chicken soup and the Reuben sandwich.
Don't lose sight of either. Saluhall, the most famous food market in Stockholm , where you can either shop or sit at one of their stalls. Our favourites? The Shrimp smørrebrød from Nybrœ.
More second kitchens from renowned chefs? Reserve in Oaxen Slip, little brother of Oaxen Krog. As soon as you enter, you will be captivated by the boats that hang from the ceiling and the large windows through which you can see the canals.
Already at the table they will its Swedish bistro flavors with veggie dishes like asparagus with scrambled almonds and pickled plum butter or roasted beets with a cranberry and sunflower seed glaze.
Another essential is Bar Agrikultur. Always crowded and lively and with barely a dozen tables, Filip Fastén's casual concept bets on natural wines and small plates to share that they are changing.
You cannot miss one of his classics, the pickled cucumbers with smetana and honey , a steak tartare to remember or the black pudding with mashed potatoes, apple and prune juice.
Do you prefer more street food ? Then you have to try one of Stockholm's gastronomic delights, one of the best hotdogs in the world according to many. We talk about the creations of Brunos Korvbar.
Specialized in hot dogs that they make with homemade sausages made on the grill, which they insert inside a baguette with sauerkraut and seasoned with mustard and homemade tomato sauce.
VINBAR CULTURE
Between 4 and 5 in the afternoon, Stockholmers leave work and here, more than in many places, practice the culture of after-work.
You will see them going from here to there on their bicycles or sitting on terraces or outdoors next to restaurants. One of the most desirable sites? The Vinbar or wine bar.
The wine culture in Stockholm is booming and there is something for everyone. From those that specialize in natural wines, to those that bet on classic wines with references from Bordeaux, Champagne and other wine regions.
Stay with only one? Impossible. So let's go with some recommendations in different parts of the city.
In the always lively Sodermalm , known as the city's hipster mud riddled with gastro addresses and vintage shops, is Folii.
Wine Bar Tyge & Sessil.
Sommeliers Béatrice Becher and Jonas Sandberg created the wine bar they would like to go to. Wood, candles and a most welcoming space, where you can enjoy more than 40 wines by the glass, including bubbles, Jura or Arbois wines and other origins, which are paired with snacks such as olives, banderillas (yes, they are also called that and they all have them), cheeses or sausages and some seasonal dishes, such as some memorable morels in cream.
A few blocks from there is ninja bar where Niklas Jakobson has managed to create a menu where more than 80 percent of the wines are natural.
Back in the center, in Östermalm, there are two that you cannot miss. First? Tyge & Sessil . In one of the most posh areas of the city, this wine bar exudes simplicity and good vibes, which ensure a good time.
More than twenty wines by the glass, paying special attention to those from small producers who work as close as possible to nature, selected by Lewis Morton and the creator of the concept, chef Niklas Ekstedt.
For a purely French experience, go to The Sparrow . Despite the Anglo-Saxon name, in this space within the hotel of the same name, the idea is an extensive Gallic wine list and a bistro-type cuisine by Mathias Dalgren.
VILLA DAGMAR: REST IN THE HEART OF ÓSTERMALM
One of the hotel newcomers to the city has been the charming boutique Villa Dagmar, belonging to the Preferred Hotels and Resorts label. Little brother of the Hotel Diplomat, it opened its doors just a few months ago next to the historic Saluhall, conceived as if an urban village it was, inserted inside an Art Nouveau building.
The team made up of designers Anna Cappelen, Per Öberg and Helena Belfrage managed to create an eclectic place with Mediterranean inspiration, with which it is impossible not to fall in love.
70 rooms with fluffy canopy beds , decorated with Swedish and Italian wallpaper and furniture, are joined by lavish marble bathrooms in which no detail is lacking, even its own amenities, designed from a holistic approach, combining Scandinavian freshness with mediterranean aromas.
Outside the room the surprise does not stop and is formalized with Gazebo, their concept store where they sell books, design objects or jewellery, a wine bar and Dagmar Spirit & Retreat, your spa with special treatments , gym and therapies such as sound or gong baths that take place every Saturday morning.
Room of Villa Dagmar.
The center of everything is its interior patio under a glass roof, which could well resemble the garden of an Italian villa. Mention deserves its gastronomic proposal, which is run entirely by Daniel Höglander and Niclas Jönsson, chefs and owners of the two Michelin stars Aloe.
For this adventure, they have adapted Nordic cuisine to a very international taste, with Mediterranean influences and touches from Italy, France and the Middle East.
The proposal starts with its breakfasts, which are served in the patio, with a menu and buffet, with not too many options but very well selected.
From a trout stuffed bagel , horseradish, cream cheese and spinach, at a croque madame with Cantal cheese, ham, Dijon and a fried egg, going through your own porridge or the classic avocado toast, here versioned with chermoula, chili, hemp seeds and za'atar.
Villa Dagmar restaurant.
Needless to say they have their own bakery in the hotel , so you can get an idea of how the breakfast rolls and cinnamon rolls are.
In addition to the lunch and dinner options, there are wonders such as its foie gras hamburger with tomato compote, the red prawns al pil pil with chili oil , a selection of pizzetas or the one that has undoubtedly become the star of the house, the lobster schnitzel that they make with the tail of the crustacean that they bread and fry, to accompany it with garlic jam, hot sauce and a slice of Cantaloup melon.
For dessert? His citron, so beautiful that it is even sad to eat it. Inside hides a lemon and mint mousse.