The lights of the sunset over the town of Reine
THINGS TO DO
Back to the 19th century. The history of fishing, as well as the lifestyles of two centuries ago, in the Lofoten Museum (Storvågan, Kabelvåg; tel. +47 7606 9790) .
Visit an organic farm. Lofoten Gårdsysteri is Hugo and Marielle Vink's goat farm in Bøstad, Vestvågøy (near a great surf beach) , with cheese-making classes and a café serving delicious salads and dairy-based dishes (Unstadveien, 235 , Bøstad; tel. +47 7608 9631).
Meet the Vikings. The Lofotr Vikingmuseum it juts out from the road like a huge upturned ship. It is interesting to see the horned invaders from a more authentic point of view (Prestegårdsveien, 59; Bøstad; tel. +47 7608 4900) .
Take a fjord boat. It's a great way to visit the tiny lost villages of the fjords. The boat leaves and arrives in Reine (reinefjor-den.no; one hour €15).
Being adventurous. Reineadventure organizes hiking, climbing, and downhill skiing (reineadventure.com); Aqua Lofoten Coast Adventure focuses on arctic diving, snorkeling, the Maelstrom Crossing Ship, and Stone Age rock art (aqualofoten.no).
A moody sky over the rugged coastline of the Lofoten Islands, Norway
EAT AND DRINK
Kjøkkenet. The hotel restaurant Anker Brygge It occupies the former Svolvær Port Office, a huge wooden building (Lamholmen 1, Svolvær; tel. +47 7606 6480; about €140 for two).
** Børsen Spiseri .** In another wooden building with embroidered curtains and farm tools on the walls, but with slightly more sophisticated food (Gunnar Bergs vei, 2, Svolvær; tel. +47 7606 9930; about €140 for two people) .
Henningsvær Lysstøperi & Cafe . Pål Petersen and Line Jensen's candle and coffee shop is packed with locals eating cinnamon buns. Specify what kind of coffee you want or go straight to the thermos (Gammelveien, 2, Henningsvær; tel. +47 9055 1877) .
** Fiskekrogen .** Chef Johan Petrini cooks traditional dishes from the Lofoten Islands ( fish soup, baked cod, roast leg of reindeer ) with a soft, contemporary touch (Dreyersgt, 29, Henningsvær; tel. +47 7607 4652; about €110 for two) .
Queen Rorbuer . It's made of wood, has a cozy stove, and the food is traditional, with freshly caught fish and delicacies like reindeer and cured lamb. The terrace has views of the cabins and the port (Reine Rorbuer; tel. +47 7609 222; about €100 for two).
Hamnøy Mat og Vinbu. Family bar that serves as a pub in Reine and where you can discuss the price of fish and building bridges with the islanders (Hamnøy, Reine; tel. +47 7609 2145) .
Try the fish prepared by chef Johan Petrini at Fiskekrogen
THE BEST GALLERIES
**Nordnorsk Kunstnersenter.** A huge, airy building that stocks fine arts and crafts from local artists. It is very well maintained, with plenty of light and space to work (Torget, 20, Svolvær; tel. +47 4008 9595) .
** Galleri Dagfinn Bakke ** Owned by Dagfinn Bakke, a Lofoten artist and printmaker whose work is witty and daring, and run by his son's journalist (tel. +47 7607 1998).
KaviarFactory. A perfect white cube set in a glorious waterside landscape. Venke Hoff organizes an ambitious and comprehensive international program as well as Norwegian artists (Henningsværveien, 13, Henningsvær; tel. +47 9073 4743) .
KaviarFactory, art in a perfect white cube
TO GET THERE
Journalist Sophie Campbell traveled to the Lofoten Islands with Discover the World (tel. +44 1737 214291) . Seven nights from €1,500 per person plus car from Oslo: includes three nights in Reine Rorbuer (reinerorbuer.no; HD: €200), two in Anker Brygge (HD: from €150) and two others in Vesterålen.
Take advantage of the next outings he will do polar lands to the Lofoten and Vesterålen islands on December 2 and 27. Personally designed by the famous explorer Ramón Larramendi, founder of this specialized agency, the trip will include sleigh rides, boat trips and, almost certainly, the Northern Lights (seven days from €1,995 in a group of 6 to 8 people, including flight) .
* This article is published in the December issue of Condé Nast Traveler magazine, number 79. This issue is available in its digital version for iPad in the iTunes AppStore, and in the digital version for PC, Mac, Smartphone and iPad in Zinio's virtual kiosk (on Smartphone devices: Android, PC/Mac, Win8, WebOS, Rim, iPad) . Also, you can find us on Google Play Newsstand.
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Lofoten Islands: dream paradise