Barn in Finca La Morisca
Outside the urban jungle of Madrid we find an unexpected oasis in the province of Cáceres. After a little over three hours by car we reached our destination, a typical family farm of the region, called La Morisca, near Salorino, which is sustained thanks to two activities that are as local as they are ancient: livestock and pig farming.
La Morisca is reached by a long path of goats that suddenly crosses a ball of deer. The owners of the farm explain to us that this is a common animal in the area and its hunting is an exploited activity.
The entertainments here are a pleasant return to the basics: make grilled meat and get together with friends and board games in front of the fireplace.
Door of a chicken coop on the farm
With the light of day, the task is to go "to make a way" through the field. Sometimes to greet the neighbor from the farm next door, others to contemplate the cattle and the pigs.
You quickly dive into the leafy meadow, with its hectares of holm oaks –the province of Cáceres has the largest forest area in Spain– that supply the necessary acorns for the controlled rearing of pigs.
In the distance, the hills that divide our country from Portugal use the Mediterranean forest as a blanket, adding to the oak other species, such as eucalyptus, pine and juniper.
By car along the roads of Cáceres
A walk gives us picturesque landscapes of streams and ravines. On our way back to the farm we met herds grazing a few meters from our terrace.
If the siesta hours are too long, it is a good idea to use them in visit Salorino and Membrío, two small towns of just over 500 inhabitants.
Spring onions to make the coals
After a tour of the center of the town, we decided to venture into its surroundings, walking along the dirt roads that begin on its outskirts. Once again, the landscape leaves us speechless.
On each side, stone walls that only stop your path with the appearance of picturesque gates with bars. Behind them, meadows bathed in yellow flowers, a lonely shepherd and his two mastiffs herding a flock of sheep.
Porra in La Morisca
funny how In just half an hour by car, the landscape, the language and even the food change. A few kilometers from the border with Portugal is the city of Marvão, current candidate for World Heritage Site.
After climbing the hill where the city is located, we leave the car outside its walls and enter on foot. Marvão surprises by the beauty of its small streets, white facades and innumerable charming corners.
Street in Marvão
Going through its walls allows you to appreciate the incredible panoramic views of the Alentejo region, and the adjoining province of Cáceres, coming to show in the distance the city that bears the same name.
Back in the car we eat in one of its few restaurants, where we try the typical meat pastéis and bolinhos de bacalhau. Between two terras.
A coffee in the sun
JOURNEY NOTEBOOK
Province of Caceres:
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
The plan is simple: stay on a farm and visit the towns of Salorino, Membrio and the noble, ancient and loyal town of Valencia de Alcantara.
HOLIDAYS AND FESTIVALS
About San Ildefonso (January 23) the most important festival of the year is organized in most towns. It is celebrated the Cultural week , during which activities such as the Popular Matanza, contests, dances and exhibitions are organized.
Room in the La Morisca farm
On Carnival Sunday the Quintos are celebrated. Formerly the tapes were run on horseback; Today, in the style of modern Halloween, young people walk the streets asking for food and money through the doors, with which they later organize a popular meal.
Another funny moment is the Romería de los Molinos, which takes place on the second Sunday in May. On this date a party is held on the riverbank that bears the same name and which basically consists of spending a day in the countryside with family and friends.
Detail of the pig
Marvao:
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
It is famous for his castle , but also worth visiting its museum, the church of Santa María, its gardens and the convent of Nossa Senhora da Estrela.
HOLIDAYS AND FESTIVALS
The medieval fair It takes place the first weekend of October. The Almossassa It is a festival that dates back to the time when Marvão was under Muslim control. The streets are painted in colors and there are Live Arab music and dance, medieval music, theatre...
The International Music Festival (in July) brings together hundreds of artists from around the world. Throughout ten days, more than 40 concerts are held in different churches, squares and museums.
The facades and corners of picturesque Marvão
All photos taken with Canon AE1 Kodakcolor C200.
This report was published in number 138 of the Condé Nast Traveler Magazine (April 2020). Subscribe to the printed edition (11 printed issues and a digital version for €24.75, by calling 902 53 55 57 or from our website). The April issue of Condé Nast Traveler is available for all of us to enjoy from any device. Download it and enjoy.
Detail of the pig farm