One weekend a year... Ronda plays
We storm the city together with the Spain Food Sherpas team, who show us some of their Ronda secrets. In winter, the Ronda field dawns with a thin layer of frost . The puddles are frozen and the Torrecilla summit, almost 2,000 meters high , shows a small blanket of snow. The sun usually shines almost every day, so the temperature soars: even more so these days, when the cold season is tiptoeing through the province of Malaga.
A magnificent place to start the day, warm up and enjoy the winter views is the Descalzos Viejos winery, where you can see a large part of the Tagus Hole surrounded by immense tranquility. It is a project that they have been directing since the mid-90s. Paco Retamero and Flavio Salesi . Then, both had a unique opportunity to acquire some beautiful land at the foot of Ronda that included an old Trinitarian convent in ruins and a generalife irrigated by a water source located on the estate itself. Both architects and "without any idea of the field", as Salesi says, they did not think about it and, in addition, they dared to take up an ancient tradition of those lands: wine production.
So they planted eight hectares of vines and, as they grew, they rehabilitated the temple and its terraces to create Descalzos Viejos in honor of the old monks who resisted there. Today, 18 years later, the facilities are well cared for in detail and the vineyards produce some of the best wines in Ronda. “They are powerful, rich wines. With a small, careful production, which averages 30,000 bottles per year” , adds Salesi, born in Buenos Aires and adopted from Ronda. "These are the wines that we like," he insists. To them and to many other people, since Descalzos Viejos sells the six varieties of wine that they currently produce in the United States, Taiwan and half of Europe. Also to those who participate in the Guided visits Along a route whose main attraction lies in the central nave of the convent, where ancient frescoes have been recovered, the barrels are preserved and the excellence of Ronda wines is preached. If you're lucky, you can also find yourself there with the presentation of luxury cars and concerts by bands like Bird or artists of the stature of Chano Dominguez . And maybe you come across a group of huge vultures that hover over the vineyards, a spectacle that the local nature gives you.
Old Barefoot Winery
This winery is a great way to start a weekend in Ronda, although you have another twenty to visit, since in this city is the only wine route in the province of Malaga certified by the Association of Wine Cities of Spain. And the wineries are an interesting first approach to the uniqueness of these lands to the west of the province of Malaga. From Descalzos Viejos, in addition, you have very close a hidden cobblestone path that runs through small farms , charming hotels such as the Hacienda Puerto las Muelas and cross the Guadalevin river. The same one that saves the famous Tajo de Ronda, which almost at the end of this path you will be able to contemplate in its fullness. In fact, a path even allows you to get up close to its base, although the most impressive views are from the main path, when you can take in its entirety and discover how the little houses lean out of the precipice around it, clinging almost to nothing.
A little further on, between slopes and cobblestones, the road finished in the San Francisco neighborhood , known to the locals simply as The neighborhood . A good area to park and prepare for the assault on Ronda, similar to what the Christian troops had to do at the end of the 15th century to take the old city. Just get close to the huge wall to understand the difficulty of the company they had and, also, to travel back in time to understand the Arab physiognomy of the old town of Ronda.
Tagus Hole
Before crossing the Almocabar Gate wave of Carlos V , the neighborhood offers some spaces of gastronomic interest. Like the one in Sevillian Rogelia, which offers homemade pastries, special breads, toasts and coffees at Ronda Sweet Bakery: a nice little corner where you can also put your hands in the dough thanks to the different workshops they organize. A few meters away is Casa María, one of the best restaurants in Ronda. It offers market cuisine and, for this reason, its proposals vary weekly, adapting to the best product of each moment. There is no letter, but let yourself be advised: from scallops in pumpkin sauce to retinta veal from Cádiz or grilled asparagus.
After the first notes for the stomach, it is now time to go through one of the gates of the wall without forgetting another place for when hunger returns: of crazy tapas . Located next to the Puerta del Almocábar, you will probably find a lot of tourists there, many of them Japanese. And you will have to call to reserve a table if you want to find a spot. If you are one of those people who plan ahead or want to try new things, do it: you can have oysters in bloody mary sauce, three different types of gazpacho, anchovies in vinegar presented in a sushi roll, taboulé, ceviche and a large number of delicatessen with products from the environment that, if you get lost, will make you stay there all day.
Round
To download the first bites, it is time to start learning about the extensive history of this city. The first large building next to the wall is the church of the holy spirit , built after the arrival of the Catholic Monarchs in just two decades with a clear appearance of a fortress: in addition to being a religious temple, the building occupied an outstanding place in the defense of Ronda and it had to be finished quickly . Inside there is a marble slab where, according to legend, the horseshoe of Fernando el Católico's horse was marked when he triumphantly entered Ronda. The narration also says that, before his triumphal ride, as a distraction maneuver for the conquest, the King had all the shoes changed to the horses so that the Muslims would think that the Christian army was fleeing and, thus, managed to deceive them and take the city. If you don't have vertigo, it is worth the effort to climb the bell tower of the church and understand even more its value as a fortress.
From there, continuing along the Arminan street , a small detour through the small It costs Staggers flows into the Duchess of Parcent Square, one of the most interesting in the city. On one side is the beautiful Ronda Town Hall, on the other, the Shrine of Mary Help of Christians -typical Ronda name- and, beyond, the Poor Clares convent.
However, the side that we have left is the one that most impresses. It's about the Royal Collegiate Church of Santa María la Mayor , a temple with cathedral aspirations and that still preserves remains of the original building that was centuries ago, the Great Mosque of the Ronda medina. Of course, the construction of this temple was done calmly: it took more than two centuries, so its initial Gothic style was completed with the Renaissance and culminated with the Baroque. As a result, a unique place not to be missed.
In a privileged situation
Yes, you can get lost in the nearby cobblestone streets, but don't worry because they will always take you to places that are worthwhile. Whether it is the Municipal Museum of Ronda and the Plaza de María Auxiliadora, the Wine Interpretation Center or the Bandolero Museum where you can discover the romantic and tragic stories of The Tragabuches, The Tempranillo or The Pernales. Already between slopes, the minaret of San Agustín, the house of the Moorish King and the arch of Felipe V direct you towards the beautiful Arab baths, from where you can see the two old bridges that traditionally served to cross the Guadalevín river. Before, of course, they decided that, for bridges, it was better to make a spectacular one. And well they did.
This low area of Ronda is perfect to see the enormous work involved in building the New bridge , popularly known as the Round Cut . But the best experience is, without a doubt, going up to its road, leaning out of one of its wrought-iron windows and letting oneself be carried away by the imagination. Are a hundred meters above the Guadalevín but the feeling of vertigo is even pleasant here. It is over two hundred years old and serves to unite the old medina with the more modern city. And before you leave this place, you can't help but peek into the Aldehuela viewpoint , whose views will leave you speechless. The terraces of the Hotel Don Miguel are also a recommended place to have a snack and continue enjoying wonderful views of one of the most international monuments in Malaga. Just opposite you will find the Parador de Ronda, a wonderful headquarters for your days in Ronda.
Aldehuela viewpoint
A few meters away, the Virgin of Peace street It takes you to another of Ronda's great landmarks: the Real Maestranza de Caballería bullring. Built in the 18th century, the bullring was inaugurated with a bullfight by Pedro Romero, considered the father of modern bullfighting. There are always tourists there, many amazed to see the busts of Ernest Hemingway , a great fan of Ronda and the bulls; Y Orson Welles , whose ashes rest on the San Cayetano estate. Behind her is the quiet Alameda del Tajo , at one end of which rises above the precipice a concrete platform not suitable for people with vertigo. Next to the bullring also begins the best-known street in the city: the Carrera Espinel, which everyone calls Calle de la Bola. In it, restaurants of all kinds coexist with souvenir shops that are the delight of visitors and numerous fashion shops where the flag of Spain is the protagonist. A route that mixes times and traditions, such as when the strident music of Stradivarius reaches legendary grocery stores like the one run by the daughters of Francisco Becerra.
Walking around Ronda makes you hungry, both for the local products that are sold in numerous groceries and for the multitude of restaurants that exist everywhere. like those of the Commander Salvador Carrasco Street , where one of its sections is already known locally as the Ronda seafront promenade thanks to the usual atmosphere of the six establishments that are located there: La Ponderosa, Los Caracoles, El Retiro, Cervecería Cero Grados, Gastrobar Camelot and the Gin&T Bar. However, it is through Carmen Abela Square where three of the most recommended establishments for tapas in the city of the Tagus and little known among visitors appear. The first of them is him Faustino Bar , a place little frequented by tourists and much loved by the people of Ronda. Flamenco chairs, a beautiful patio, two floors and bullfighting decoration surround you to taste classic rations such as meat with tomato or quail eggs. All at prices of another century. Even more so if you try one of the best serranitos in Ronda: difficult to match the flavor of this loin, pepper and ham sandwich . They have been doing it since 1986, perhaps for that reason they have more than caught the point.
Tuna teriyaki from Las Martirio
A few years earlier, in 1969, the Casa Moreno bar was born, known since then as The Lettuce for one of its most common tapas: a bud with oil. Ask for it, because it is a good way to accompany your beer and, also, to overcome the difficulty of choosing between its 72 tapas at 80 cents and six dishes at a few cents more. Do not expect the cuisine of a Michelin star restaurant, but dare with anything because you will be right. And let yourself be carried away without prejudice by one of the most classic places in Ronda.
A few steps from there is one of the most recent and most worthwhile tapas bars. It's called The Martyrdom and there everything is a party : it couldn't be any other way with a comb as the logo and the surname of gastroflamenco bar. The chairs are colored. A lighthouse illuminates the premises from the wall where they resonate Estrella Morente, Kiko Veneno, Camarón or Paco de Lucía . The bars are made of old recycled doors full of optimistic phrases and the windows show the best: an interesting variety of fresh fish that completes a more than attractive menu at prices that make you want to stay and live in Ronda. The generous portions of fish are served in brown paper cartridges, as established by the canons . And its cuisine knows tradition with classics such as the juicy and exquisite marinated dogfish with fine shells, the tasty acedías or some interesting cuttlefish croquettes. However, the letter is current thanks to proposals that should not be missed. One of them is the almadrabito , with a pure oriental flavor and formed by a crunchy toast with tuna marinated in soy and honey with wasabi mayonnaise. another, the so-called Sailor of lights, a montadito of fresh squid with aioli. Their secret is knowing the genre well: the Rosado family has always had a fish market in Ronda, which you can still find on José Luis Ortiz Massaguer avenue. If it's nice, don't hesitate to take advantage of the terrace, located in Las Tiendas street, pedestrian and as central as it is quiet . And if you go on a Thursday you're in luck because you can enjoy live flamenco and, yes or yes, the night goes on between palms, heels and wine.
To rest it you can give yourself, why not, a little luxury on your trip: the Reina Victoria hotel, a recently renovated four-star hotel with almost a hundred rooms, a spa and 3,000 square meters of gardens where there is a wonderful swimming pool that, yes, in winter will be of little use to you.
The Lettuce
To finish the trip, it is essential to go to one of the groceries that, along the Ronda, allow you to discover the best local gastronomic secrets and that, probably, you will not find easily in other cities. The Queso y Jamón boutique is one of them and La Cueva de Pasos Largos another, where you can find the classic yemas de Ronda (which you can also buy directly at the Las Campanas confectionery, in the Plaza del Socorro) or the sweets called goyescos, based on black and white chocolate and almonds.
Although further away from the historic center and its incessant tourism, already back in the San Francisco neighborhood, La Tienda de Trinidad was born in December 2013 . The manager Miguel Angel Mena , who named his premises in honor of his grandmother, who formerly had a similar establishment in the area. It is a small UN of products of the region , where each town has its representation in the form of gastronomic delight. Namely: liver blood sausage from Arriate, Igualeja pork rinds , Iberian pork loin sausage from Benarrabá, zurrapa pork loin from Benaoján, payoyo goat cheese from Villaluenga del Rosario, honey from Grazalema or oil from Estación de Gaucín, among many others. In addition, jams, vegetables, spices, brandy, mistela and, of course, Ronda wines such as Seis + Seis from the Chinchilla winery or the so-called Perezoso, from the Gonzalo Beltrán winery, as well as Andresito, from the Fontalba Capote winery, in Almargen . Unbeatable options to continue tasting Ronda and its surroundings when you return home. If you come back
The Trinity Store
Goyesque cakes
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