El Calamar Bravo, obligatory stop in Zaragoza
The first time I stepped The brave squid I couldn't even peek over the bar. More than a place, that first establishment was a corridor with a bar on the left and half-barrel-shaped tables on the right where not even a pin fit.
My parents used to sit me on the table while they ate a squid sandwich (I ordered them on a plate, since the delicacy in question was almost bigger than my head).
It always amused me that from time to time the waiters yelled "Long live the Squid!" Joaquín Navarro, the current owner, told me a few days ago that she had been wrong for years.
Outside, rare was the day that the line 'to take away' (that take away or milk) did not reach the end of the street Moneva, in Zaragoza, the city where El Calamar Bravo was born more than fifty years ago.
The current location on Cinco de Marzo street
In 2009 he moved to the street fifth of March, where locals and visitors continue to pilgrimage religiously to taste what many consider to be the best squid sandwich in the world (and be careful not to contradict a hand).
HALF A CENTURY OF HISTORY
Joaquin Navarro Bern is part of the third generation of a family that opened a humble place with the calamari sandwich as its star dish.
“My grandfather, Ramón Berna, founded the bar in the year 1967, then passing to my parents in 1969. Everything I know (about hospitality and life) I learned from them”, Joaquín tells me.
The current owner of El Calamar Bravo studied to be a teacher and he started working at the bar to get some money while he opposed.
As you may have guessed, Joaquín stayed at El Calamar, where he has been in charge since 2003. “My father taught me that the important thing is to provide a quality product at a good price and to treat the customer very well”, explains Joaquín.
The beer to pass the calamari, don't miss it
The move was not by its own decision, but because the Zaragoza City Council declared the building in which it was located to be in a state of ruin (a minute of silence for all those nights of Pilares eating squid sitting on the floor of Juan Moneva street).
The new place is much larger and has high tables and stools, although many other customers still choose to order them to go.
The bar is still on the left and the last time I was I counted nine waiters, plus Joaquín – where was the captain going to be but with his crew?
Long live Squid!
THE SANDWICH
If you ask my father (a palate I trust more than the Michelin Guide) what he thinks of the squid sandwich at El Calamar Bravo, two words will suffice to define it: "BLESSED GLORY".
But let's dig a little deeper into the matter. First, bread. Do not expect the typical baguette, here the bread is tender and forceful and many of those who considered it an aberration to put the squid in the crumb have changed their minds after passing through El Calamar Bravo.
The squid, with just the right amount of egg and flour batter, are coated with (drum roll) the spectacular, famous and (unfortunately) secret salsa brava.
A temple of obligatory pilgrimage
SALSA, THE BEST KEPT SECRET
Mayonnaise, a little garlic, a pinch of spice... I have spent centuries trying to find the exact ingredients of this delicacy, getting – as they say in my land – ‘lost’ in the attempt.
“Salsa is a creation of my parents and you are going to excuse me, but I can't reveal the recipe to you, it's a house secret”, Joaquín tells me.
That same sauce is the one that accompanies the spicy potatoes, another of the essentials of El Calamar Bravo. In his menu we also find mussels, pickles, potato omelette, Russian salad, anchovies, anchovies and other delicious tapas.
Zaragoza doesn't have a beach, but it has the best squid sandwich in the world
LONG LIVE THE SQUID!
As for the cry of “Long live El Calamar!” that I heard so many times as a child, "Actually what they say is 'Cold squid!' to tell the kitchen to fry more squid”, explains Joaquín (years and years of my life living in ignorance).
Characters like the film director Miguel Angel Lamata the paralympic swimmer Theresa Perales or the footballer Andrew Herrera They couldn't resist trying the squid sandwich at El Calamar Bravo.
By the way, as a good morning, I'm not going to give my arm to twist: Long live the Squid!
Patatas bravas and bravo squid: the secret is in the sauce
Address: Cinco de Marzo, 14, 5004 Zaragoza See map
Telephone: 976 79 42 64
Schedule: From Monday to Sunday from 11:00 a.m. to 2:45 p.m. and from 6:00 p.m. to 11:15 p.m.