Welcome to the land of good wine: Montilla
If the master of the gothic story, Edgar Allan Poe (author of the barrel of amontillado ) would have set foot on the land of the Pedro Ximénez grape , not only would he have had a few glasses of this poetic and mysterious wine with some countryman. He would have celebrated every ray of sunshine on the Mountain range of Montilla.
And finally, a tavern route would have been marked through this little piece of land of white houses. So if you're a lover of good wines, **put on a great song by Lole and Manuel like 'Romero Verde'**, take the road and blanket and sing this about: "Come to the fields, child, under the sunlight!" to get into the situation.
vineyards everywhere
Because Montilla and Amontillado have many things in common. The two surprise. Beneath their simple and country appearance they reveal, after a slow sip, a type of wisdom that only the earth gives, and that gives birth to genuine characters beyond their appearances.
In this résumé of old celebrities of the city, there are natives and adopted children. It is, for example, Gonzalo Fernández de Córdoba, the Great Captain, who defeated the last Nasrid king of Grenade and from which Elizabeth the Catholic She was always platonically in love. His castle (or rather, what remains of him) presides over the city from the highest point.
Or the teacher of teachers, John of Avila , whose intellectual weight was key in Renaissance Europe and that he received mystics seeking advice from the likes of Teresa de Jesús and Ignacio de Loyola. And the Inca Garcilaso also lived here for thirty years , son of an Inca princess and a Spanish soldier, a singular and unique character, born in Cuzco , who dared to approach the Inca culture from the western point of view.
His best works were written from his uncle's house, which maintains the colonial atmosphere of the XVI century, the golden age of Montilla.
A wine paradise
It was also inhabited by witches like The Camachas , whom Cervantes immortalized in the Colloquium of the Dogs , or bandits like Jose Maria The Tempranillo , who scampered through the undulating sierra, which they now call Cordovan Tuscany stealing from the rich to give to the poor. They say that as a child this Andalusian Robin Hood he worked very hard on the grape harvest.
With the elixir of this land as a spiritual guide, we propose a series of visits that are made much more fun with these recommendations : 1. Have a glass of wine between one and the other. 2. Good company above all, 3. Always soak the wines with a lid. Four. Do it in the following order: tinaja (or young) wine, fine wine, odorous wine and crown with the amontillado.
WALKING, DRINKING AND CHATTING
Experts in giving “little talk” , here, in any corner and very early you can hit the boneless. At 8 in the morning there is already a lot of life in the streets, in the market, in artisan bakeries and tahonas (try their puff pastries) …
But before you dive into this weekend morning hustle and bustle, take a tour of the Cervantes Walk to know the strange poses and pirouettes of his protected cat colony . At that time the felines walk among the fountains and the tall palm trees as if they were wild animals of the African savannah.
Afterwards, set off towards the highest part of the town, the castle of the Great Captain , where he was born in 1453 and was until the age of 12 the man for whom Isabel La Católica drank the winds. King Ferdinand the Catholic ordered the castle to be demolished before the bravado of the Lords of Aguilar.
But in the eighteenth century, the Duke of Medinaceli built the barn , which is the only thing that remains, on its ruins. Next to the castle, watch over the town Santiago Parish , the epicenter of one of the bell towers whose bells you will hear ringing during your stay.
Taking a walk through the alleys behind the parish, you enter through the traditional neighborhood of La Escuchuela, with white houses. The viewpoint at the end of Calle Escuchuela, or the views of the parish from Calle de la Iglesia give you the opportunity to stop and take a photo.
Church of Montilla
Before having our first drink, we went down towards the Inca House , a fundamental place to understand this figure who lived here between 1561 and 1591 where he wrote the famous Royal Commentaries on him. Here is another tourist office (the first one is in the castle). They can tell you details about the life of this legendary mongrel.
And when you want to realize it, the perfect time will have come to take the first drink in a very neighborhood tavern, the typical corner bar always full of patrons: Bar Ciriaco . Tiled walls and a simple bar are enough to warm up the engines, chat for a while, have a drink, and sing softly down the slope to our next stop.
The House of San Juan de Ávila was one of the centers of spirituality of the Golden Age. The visit is a kind of time jump to the 16th century. But it is necessary to reserve the appointment in advance (at the tourist office) since it does not open every day and it does so at the request of the public.
Yes, just for you. Then, down the San Luis street, another stop is the Santa Clara Convent: “The Jewel” . Founded in 1517 by the first Marquis of Priego , his daughter ended up entering it as a nun and later his widow, the Countess of Fair.
The Plateresque Gothic portal that awaits you after passing the wooden gate, in a paved courtyard with a well, is attributed to the first Hernán Ruiz and gives an idea of the value of the complex. The interior of the convent is collected and has a spectacular altarpiece and several images of Pedro de Mena.
Nail cloistered nuns (mostly Kenyans) will give you a tour of the interior of the convent full of works of art (by appointment). If you pass by here on Wednesdays, one of the days that they sell sweets through the old lathe, you will be able to taste the delicious yolks of Santa Clara coming out of his workshop.
Museum of the Painter Garnelo
Abroad, the façade of the convent merges with the Arco de Santa Clara : one of those corners of the magical town painted hundreds of times. Passing the arch, the Palace of the Dukes of Medinaceli it is that imposing building for sale today, waiting to fall apart or be bought by some visionary hotelier.
On this esplanade known as Palace Plain , under the shady plane trees, we had the next drink, on **the terrace of Bar Carrasquilla**. Snacks of local cuisine of the highest quality and all made with great care.
You have to try everything but if you are looking for the typical, flamenquines, oxtail or crispines , do not miss. Let yourself be advised by Antonio and his team.
AFTER MEALS, LAUGHTER AND MORE WINE
After eating we went up again, this time in the direction of the town's main square, the Rose Square which had better days. After its remodeling it was somewhat galactic and not very genuine.
Rose Square
Despite everything, it is a lively place with terraces, and surrounded by a hermitage, a restored theater from 1917 and the building of The Third , some houses that would be built by the seventh Count of the Curtain , Francisco de Alvear y Gómez in the twenties and whose façade (which also needs a little sprucing up) we can admire while we had another drink on the terrace of The Tavern of the Barrels . Here you can also snack on something.
With bells already in our soul, and chatting up to our elbows, we will head down the main street, La Corredera, pedestrian and quiet, passing in front of the Basilica of Saint John of Avila (His remains lie here and it is a place of pilgrimage).
The House of Waters is our next destination, where the Museum of the painter Garnelo , teacher geniuses like Picasso . a collection of 180 works among which you will find some interesting discoveries.
On the upper floor, a foundation, that of the Manuel Ruiz Luque Library , was ceded by this resident of Montilla with more 30,000 volumes among which are numerous rarities.
Let's finish off this little binge on art with a good candy binge in the picturesque Manuel Aguilar's Bakery , on the main street, two steps away.
Almond tiles with Alfajor praline
This pastry shop can boast of being practically the same (recipes included) since 1886. Among its top ten: the pastelón, the alfajores, the tiles with praline or the almond powders.
One last drink before the aperitif? The Old Tata , on the main street, a few meters ahead, a perfect corner with terrace to see the montillanía go by.
THE NIGHT: DINNERS WITH WINE
When the rhythm begins to slow down and the truths begin to come out of that mouth (In vino veritas, the Romans said) it is time to take a break and rest. Have a leisurely dinner, quietly, having an aperitif accompanied by an Amontillado in one of the oldest taverns.
Ask what to pair it with Bolero , an informal and warm option with a small patio, which is a plus. The local cuisine is very well represented on the menu and the service is familiar and impeccable. If you are left wanting more taverns, the nearby the chiva is another highly recommended option, also with a patio, and whose walls and atmosphere you will find bits of the history of Montilla.
But if you are looking for a restaurant with tradition, where you can dine with a table and tablecloth, The Camachas . It is located on the outskirts (a pleasant 20 minute walk dotted with bars). The restaurant, with terrace and lounge with fireplace, is famous for serving the best Montilla artichokes (which marry perfectly with an amontillado) and its cellar is well nourished.
If you are looking for a more modern concept, ** Los Lagares is specialized in rice dishes** in case you want to get out of the jack, horse, king.
Specialized in rice
WINERIES, WINERIES AND MUCH MORE
A guided tasting at **Alvear, the oldest winery in Andalusia (1729) ** after strolling through its oak barrels and tasting some of its most emblematic wines is an unforgettable experience. A genuine way of To do wine tourism in Montilla is to visit a couple of wineries in the mountains.
lost between vineyards and olive trees , these family farms make wine from their own vineyards and each one has its own philosophy.
Among our favourites, the Lagar Cañada Navarro (ideal to visit at sunset and dine under the stars among vineyards : contact Santiago and organize your visit) ; White Winery (to test your signature wines overlooking the valley) or the La Primilla Winery (where you can eat a good bowl -of rice- washing it down with more wine from their harvest. Ask Charo to let you try their must porridge, a typical dessert which is a delicatessen in extinction).
And if the world of oil also attracts you, the miller's breakfast and the visit to the Juan Colin Mill , a farm dedicated to the cultivation of olive groves, also in the mountains, is another plan that combines terroir and product.
For more exclusive and tailor-made experiences, the agency JustExplore is specialized in Montilla, in the mountains, in the raisins, the presses, the oil... “Full Montilla experience”.
WHERE TO SLEEP
If the idea is to put you fine of fine, the boutique hotel Lujo Pobre is the best option because you don't have to leave the town. It is on Calle Ancha, a place with a ‘semanasantera’ resonance, near famous taverns. This house from the thirties It has three rooms and all the comforts.
Our favourite, ** the Amontillado suite .** But if you are looking for a more rustic experience, and it seems romantic to get lost in the mountains, on one of the hills of the countryside is the Rural House White Hill , with three rooms and a cozy atmosphere.
Another option also rural, but in the direction of Cordova (not in the mountains) is the Buytron Estate , with eight rooms that offer the experience of living in the Montillana countryside.
Poor Luxury Amontillado Suite
WHERE TO BUY
Each winery, each winery, each cooperative such as ** La Unión or La Aurora sell their products and also oils.**
In addition to these possibilities, one of the most famous places for wine sales is Eladia Duran's shop , a wine cellar where you can ask questions and get to know Montilla wines first-hand.
Also, it's next to the gold barrel , which is another good place, by the way, to have a drink (and another tapa) .