Interstate 8, the border between the United States and Mexico
The Interstate 8 (I-8) of the United States is possibly the world's most famous border highway right now. It was completed in the mid-1970s and runs through southern California from east to west and although the highway in total exceeds the half a thousand kilometers , through this State only travels 277 . The rest go through Sonoran desert in Arizona , until linking with the Interstate 10 in Casa Grande , north of Tucson.
In the near 300 Californian km , I-8 **runs parallel to the border with Mexico**, at some points only half a mile from the neighboring country to the south.
We trace this route from east to west , to finish off the trip with a sunset over the Pacific, in ocean beach , hard to forget.
The condition of the pavement is excellent. throughout the journey and in some moments We drive alone almost without crossing any vehicle, accompanied only by prickly pears, green hills or pines; the most absolute diversity.
Despite the apparent loneliness In some sections, it is not advisable to get distracted and step on the accelerator too much, the police are usually hidden in those areas and in the United States, exceeding the speed limit is not a misdemeanor. Also, it is easy to find with US border patrol checkpoints , the US Border Patrol, armed to the teeth and with dogs in unexpected places and relatively far from the border, for example in Pine Valley, the furthest point from the border and the highest, 1,139 meters above sea level . In the 1990s, some mafias circulated in this area in the opposite direction and at high speed to avoid the patrols, which caused more than one serious accident.
Crops on both sides of Highway 8
THE ROUTE, KILOMETERS BY KILOMETERS
The first part of the tour It's a desert reminiscent of the best Western movies, with power lines zipping past the window.
Up Calexico , a small American town on the edge of the border and which has its twin, Mexicali , on the other side (this one is much more populated since it is the capital of the Mexican state of Baja California), we recommend turn north on the 111 , to visit Salton Sea and Salvation Mountain.
The Calexico Border Motel
Nearby are also the Coachella Valley and Anza Borrego Natural Park , where we stay at The House of Fox , a colonial-style spa resort and a wonderful swimming pool that we cannot avoid trying. It is essential have breakfast on the terrace overlooking the patio, a strong Mexican-influenced menu, with burritos and Huevos Rancheros.
Salton Sea It is the largest lake in California but its origin is artificial. It was created in 1905 as a result of an engineering error and the Colorado River floods . The aim was to make a canal to irrigate the fertile farming area of the Imperial Valley, which we passed through on the way there, but the failure flooded a vast area of almost 1,000 km2 and created the lake.
In the 1950s and 1960s it became an elegant playground , with fishing areas and beach. Until the pesticides from the huge neighboring plantations and nearby factories they killed all life in the lake.
Today it is a dead sea, almost ghostly, with carcasses of fish and birds on the shores that emit a foul smell. This situation has unleashed the wrath of environmentalists , like the deceased singer Sonny Bonno, that sponsors a bird recovery center on the edge of the lake.
Salton Lake, once a bird sanctuary... today a dead sea
super freak
Nearby, to the east, in Niland , is Salvation Mountain , a colorful hill in the desert built with straw bales, wood and debris collected from the garbage. He started riding it in the 80's a hippie who lived in a fenced camp and is still growing.
In 2007 he appeared in Sean Penn's film To Wild Routes , in the video Coldplay's 'Birds' in 2016 and a year later in 'Praying' by Kesha.
Salvation Mountain in Into the Wild
Calexico doesn't deserve to waste a lot of time. It's really a Mexicali neighborhood and more than 80% of the population is Mexican. A curious place sociologically but without any attraction.
Back on I-8 and on my way to San Diego the highway starts to climb cuyamaca mountains . It radically changes the landscape because we are more than 1,000 meters of altitude . From this point the road descends gently towards the sea.
The stars from the road through the Cuyamaca mountains
Upon arriving at The drawer, a very peculiar place, with low colonial-style houses and modern shopping areas who imitate what they must suppose to be a art deco style but the papier mâché can be seen from a league away, we are now entering the urban area of San Diego.
THE PACIFIC
The traffic starts to get heavier and heavier the closer we get to the sea. Ocean Beach is a peculiar beach r where the most sophisticated surfers mix with very young homeless people, environmentalists and dog owners, who take them for a walk on a beach specifically designed for them.
Shortly before reaching the sea, I-8 intersects with I-5 , the westernmost highway in the United States that leads north to The Angels and to the south, to the border and Tijuana, where you can see a part of the wall that separates both countries and even penetrates the sea.
The drawer
From downtown San Diego to Tijuana there are only 30 km. Next to the Santa Fe Station, In a charming colonial style, a tram leaves you at the border, in a shopping center, the typical and gigantic American Mall that responds to the pompous name of The Americas and which looks suspiciously like Las Rozas Village or La Roca Village, except for the prices, which are considerably lower.
In San Diego not to be missed Balboa Park , the cabrillo peninsula and the floating naval museum in the harbor. To sleep, or at least pay him a visit, the most charming hotel is the one in El Coronado , on the island of the same name, which is actually a peninsula but is connected to the city center by an impressive bridge. It was filmed in that hotel Whit skirts and being crazy and many chapters The Baywatch.
The northern part of the island of El Coronado is occupied by the largest US Army naval base in the world at the moment. But if you want a more surfer and Californian experience, we recommend the ** Tower 23 Hotel , in Pacific Beach **, with a super lively bar at sunset.
Tower 23 Hotel
FOOD, COFFEE AND CIGAR
Eating well in San Diego is very easy and the offer is quite wide. They have good fish and shellfish, but 'American style' (that is, shrimp and fish without heads) and a lot of influence from Mexican cuisine, as well as a good Italian offer in Little Italy , in the center, where any place is recommended. But be careful when ordering with the size of the portions, they are XXL.
We really liked it Top of the Market , specializing in fish, and with a terrace from which you have a spectacular view of the midway aircraft carrier . Logically it is in the port, next to the floating museum. In the 4th Avenue you can give yourself the luxury of having an ice cream and a coffee while you smoke a cigarette or a cigar from their wonderful cellar. They even have rollers preparing the cigars. For all the whims.
A BOOK TO ACCOMPANY THE JOURNEY
As a bedside book for this trip we recommend the power of the dog (2005) of Don Winslow , first part of the poster , by the same author, which narrates the origin of the Mexican cartels and which is set in much of the route we have made.