A road trip with stops along the way like the one that appears in this image
the north of Albanian It stands out for its mountains of overwhelming beauty and legend feeders. In this second part of this road trip through the country of eagles, we leave behind the mountainous north of Albania, to enter the southernmost part of the country.
The south of Albania is famous for its paradisiacal beaches and for being a more exploited area from the tourist point of view. Even so, if we manage to see beyond the umbrellas, which unfortunately are going to cut off our sight on some other beach, we will find the same magic that we had left behind in the rugged north. We continue our route by car through Shqipëria!
VLÖRE AND BERAT
Our route through the south begins in an unattractive city from a historical point of view, but perfect for stock up on everything we may need to enjoy the sun and the beaches (if in the hand luggage of the plane we did not fit everything we wanted to take).
Vlore It's one of those cities where the overconstruction of buildings won the battle over nature. But do not despair, because this is just the entrance to the wonderful Albanian coast, and the inhabitants of Vlöre are famous for being from the friendliest people in Albania. Also, take something in your promenade It's worth it, especially when it's sunny. And watching hundreds of people enjoying the outdoors by the sea can be a good pastime.
If you are not in a hurry—and especially if you feel like walking—another point of interest is the Kuzum Baba viewpoint. This place, which has a terrace, allows a bird's-eye view of the city, which is particularly beautiful at dusk. Before turning back to the interior of Albania for a moment, it cannot be miss a swim in the so-called Canal di Otranto —the point where the Adriatic Sea meets the Ionian. Whether on the beach of the city known as Old Beach or in the Narta beach, about 8 miles north and much less crowded.
Having a drink on the Vlöre promenade is worth it
Now yes, after cooling off on the coast, we headed east for a moment to enter the Albanian hills again. Our next stop is Berat. to this city UNESCO World Heritage it is known as the city of a thousand windows, a name that we will understand as soon as we arrive, as we will find ourselves surrounded by ancient constructions that seem to observe us from a distance.
According to several historical documents, the town was founded by the Illyrians in the fourth century, and there are not so many occasions to visit a city with more than 2,400 years of life. Despite not being very big, there is a lot to see in Berat.
To get started, simply walking it is a delight for the senses. Berat is situated in a valley, with the osum river crossing it in the middle. On both sides of the river, hundreds of white, old and very well preserved houses go down the hill almost like a stone waterfall. As we enter between them, the experience even improves. Berat is made up of streets that zigzag, go up, down and intersect, changing width with each new step, which makes walking it almost like walking through a storybook.
Within the city there are several points of interest, especially for lovers of history and culture. The Singles Mosque —reserved for unmarried men— or the ethnographic museum are good places to start appreciate the past and present of the city. In the Ethnographic Museum you can see how traditional Albanian clothing has changed throughout history — also due to different external cultural influences — and also what the typical houses of the country were like.
Berat is known as the city of a thousand windows
However, the best known and most impressive part of Berat, apart from the city itself, is the castle that rises like a guardian on the highest part of the mountain where the villa is located. known as Kala, the castle is a citadel that is a small town in itself.
Climbing to the top is an odyssey on hot days, but it's worth it. From here we have privileged views of Berat itself and of the nature of this area of the country. The citadel is a fortification surrounded by stone walls, with narrow streets where it is easy to get lost, bars where you can enjoy a drink and numerous points of interest. They stand out among them the Church of San Jorge or the Red Mosque. Although, without a doubt, the best thing, as it happens with Berat, is simply to walk it and enjoy the fact that people still live in a fortification dating back to the 13th century.
Dhërmi beach is one of the most famous in the country
HIMARË AND DHËRMI
Once we have felt that we have soaked up Albanian history, it is time to head back to shore. The road from Berat to Dhërmi, especially in its last section zigzagging downhill between mountains, is an attraction in itself.
Dhermi It's a small town with not much to do besides eat and walk around, but its beach with Mount Çika so close towering over it, it is a true marvel. In addition, Dhërmi is a city divided into two quite remote areas. The city center is on top of the mountain, and it looks like a postcard Mediterranean city, with its white buildings and the turquoise blue sea at its feet.
Himare, our next stop and a good place to spend the night, is also a small village and it shows that it is one of the areas chosen by the Albanians to spend the summer. Yet it also has its own unique charm, partly caused by the fact that there are many people of Greek and Italian descent living in it.
The best of Himare is food —here the peculiar mix of Albanian foods is even more noticeable— and its energetic environment, palpable especially at nightfall, when young people and not so much go out to the promenade to practice the xhiro Or what is the same, flirt and meet people strolling at sunset.
Himarë is a small town and it shows that it is one of the areas chosen by Albanians to spend the summer
THE ALBANIAN RIVIERA
After a good rest in Himarë, we head to the most famous and beautiful coastal area of the Albanian country: the Albanian Riviera. This area is an almost obligatory stop if you go to Albania with the intention of enjoying its beaches. Even so, the most crowded tourism has already begun to arrive here, which means that the prices and the atmosphere are not the same as those found in the rest of the country, much less accustomed to waves of people. In any case, it is still worth approaching this southernmost part of Albania.
You can start the visit to the Albanian Riviera by Sarande, a good example of excessive construction of buildings that begins to characterize some areas of the country. Even so, Sarandë also has promenade —which by now we will have learned that it is the best area to enjoy a good atmosphere and a few drinks—, and, in addition, it has good beaches nearby where you can relax. For this reason, Sarandë is a good place to spend the night before heading to Ksamil.
The best beaches near Sarandë, especially in the morning when there are fewer people and we can enjoy some peace, are the beach of the Mirrors and the beach of the Seagulls. In high season, unfortunately, there are so many umbrellas in the afternoon that it is not easy to find a spot. Anyway, You can rent a sun lounger and umbrella for about 6 euros all day if you prefer.
Sarandë has good beaches nearby where you can relax
Next, we head to the final leg of our walk along the Albanian coast before heading back inland one last time to visit Gjirokastër. Our last stop near the sea is Ksamil.
Ksamil is a small irregularly shaped peninsula that is inside the Butrint National Park, in an area also known as The Three Islands. It has strong points the beauty of its beaches, with turquoise waters that on sunny days it seems that instead of the sea you find yourself surrounded by a huge pool. At nightfall, moreover, the bay, with the Island of Corfu in the background, makes one think in a pirate bay straight out of an adventure book.
Among its weak points, however, is the fact that private umbrellas have covered almost the entire coast and it's hard to find a place to sit if you want to avoid paying any of the hotels in the area.
Although Ksamil is especially famous for lovers of the sea and beach bars with good views at dawn, it also has historical attractions quite well preserved. The best is the visit to the Ruins of Butrinto, in the National Park that bears the same name. This city, named UNESCO National Heritage and that excavation began in 1927, is a vestige of the power of the Greeks between the 8th and 10th centuries. Legend says that it was founded by a Trojan hero, Aeneas, who ran into her fleeing the destruction of Troy.
Ksamil's strengths are the beauty of its beaches
GJIROKASTRA
Once we have calmly enjoyed the sun and the crystal clear waters of the coast, it is time to set sail for the final leg of our trip through Albania. Gjirokastra is one of those historical cities so well preserved that it looks like a modern reconstruction. However, almost all the constructions that we see in Gjirokastra are centuries old.
For some people, this city loses its charm because of the many souvenir shops that populate its old area. However, they sell traditional objects and are so well camouflaged with the old buildings that it is easy to evade its existence. At night, moreover, they usually have open-air concerts and so much eat and sleep in it, despite its fame, it is quite affordable for all pockets.
Among the highlights of Gjirokastra are its well-known tower houses: traditional houses that only remain intact in this city and date back to the Ottoman era. The most beautiful and best preserved are House Skenduli —where you are also offered a guided tour of the different highly recommended rooms— Kadare House, where one of Albania's best-known writers, Ismail Kadaré, was born and the Zetake House, which also has an incredible view of the entire city and whose owner is so nice that you will stay for a while talking to him.
The alleys of the old town of Gjirokastra will mesmerize you
To finish our trip, it is best to return to the central area of Gjirokastra, known as the bazaar, and enjoy one last beer surrounded by people, relics that recall the communist past of a country full of contrasts and with the sunset in the distance.
It is clear that Albania is one of those countries that stay in your heart even long after you have returned home.