Pure beauty
Nothing more and nothing less than 600 steps are necessary to climb to the top of Skellig Michael.
Six hundred jagged and wet stone steps , an hour's journey sailing in a small boat with a maximum capacity for 15 crew members , in addition to decent weather conditions and the forecast of having booked in time to enter the quota of 15,000 annual visitors, accessed only during the months from March to October . Being in good shape and not having excessive vertigo also helps.
Ready to climb?
As you can see, reaching these irish atlantic islands It is not an easy task, but the effort to visit one of the oldest monastic settlements in the world, located in a unique and rugged area such as Skellig Michael, is recognized UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996 , well worth it.
Located at 7.4 miles from Portmagee -the small fishing village belonging to the county kerry and from which most of the ships set sail for this destination-, these two islands of the Atlantic Ocean seem created to remind us that ** nature ** is not always subtle and beautiful, and that in its most wild and hidden is even more admirable.
Only suitable for adventurers
Getting on a small boat with capacity for a handful of visitors is the only way to reach them. It takes a little over an hour to see the first of the islands , the little Skellig, which, due to its massive population of gannets -the second largest in the world with more than 70,000 copies-, presents at first sight a thick white coating that could be mistaken for snow.
But it's not like that. Thousands of these seabirds inhabit these 8 hectares of island, which for them is a paradise free of predators and human life , since it is not possible to land on it in any way.
Gannets on Skellig
In the surroundings, and without a trace of solid ground for several kilometers around -except the second and largest of the islands, Skellig Michael -, swim, fly, plan and fish together with other species such as puffins, arctic terns, seals, seagulls, fulmars, cormorants, dolphins or even whales.
The animal spectacle, added to an intense and almost permanent wind and waves, is wonderful.
seabird home
If the sky is clear, from here you will have the opportunity to see Skellig Michael in all its glory. If, on the contrary, you access it on a foggy day, the first view you will have of it will be much closer and more impressive, and I assure you that It will remind you of the island in the movie King Kong , which is revealed between thick clouds and a halo of mystery that will make your hair stand on end. An abrupt, wild, hidden and majestic coast awaits you when you disembark.
Vegetation with intense green tones, rocks, waves and wind They accompany us at all times along the path that leads to the beginning of the ascent.
However, in all this inhospitable scene there is a detail as tender as it is curious: the hundreds of puffins that become the center of attention of everyone who visits the island , starring in some of the funniest and most endearing snapshots, which invite you to spend long moments watching them.
The colony is huge and they are present at all times to liven up the walk and "play" to hide and discover themselves in the tiny holes between rocks and grass that they use as nests. They they share their home with maned shearwaters and guillemots , among other species of sea birds.
One of the islands puffins
The steep ascent cannot begin until the statutory safety instructions are heard and it is clear that climbing here is no game. Stone steps are uneven and often mossy and damp , two factors that favor slips.
Taking care of each step is very important, as well as go back in case we feel dizziness, vertigo or excessive fatigue. The journey is increasingly steep, so it is not convenient to start it if you have doubts or we are not in a position to do it.
Once we started climbing, the staircase is presented divided into more comfortable sections, in which they are always appreciated a few minutes break to catch my breath and power Admire the landscape more carefully. The road skirts the mountain and offers impressive views that improve as we gain height.
The last section of the climb is the steepest of all and from it you can see the old stairway with more than 670 steps that the monks carried out every day after obtaining the catch of the day. As admirable as shocking.
The views are worth it
get to the 218 meters above the ocean in which the top is located has its reward. The first constructions - dating from the 6th century - of what was once this enclave occupied by monks are beginning to be discovered: enclosures delimited by walls, gates with their arches, secret passageways, a small cemetery and the striking clochain.
These stone huts , beehive-shaped on the outside and rectangular on the inside, have starred in some of the most ambitious scenes in Star Wars , a relevant fact for fans of this saga who seek to relive some of the moments starring Luke Skywalker and learn about the special place in which they were filmed.
The clochain were built to prevent the smallest drop of rain from entering them , and today they remain practically intact, being possible to freely access their interiors.
Now from the other side, the view of Little Skellig It is another show, as long as the weather allows it. The ideas obtained after the visit to this place are contradictory.
On the one hand, it's clear that seclusion and serenity could be found effortlessly in this secluded corner of the world; however, it is difficult to understand the ability to survive , especially considering the high percentage of rainy days that are presented here, coupled with strong winds, fog and other inclement weather.
The 'clochains'
Be that as it may, the wild beauty that can be observed is worth the effort required to achieve it. According to the most reliable historical data, this monastic community was present on Skellig Island until the 13th century , approximately, when the religious left the island practically forced by the worsening of the weather conditions.
The descent , far from what we can imagine, done more easily and quickly , but you should not let your guard down at any time. You have to take into account the time of departure since the Irish captains are very strict with punctuality, and nobody is interested in staying here to sleep.
Before saying goodbye, the famous rock on which Rey practices his training on the island of Ahch-To (_Star Wars: Episode VIII - The Last Jedi) _, invites you to take a photo and immortalize this unique visit.
Once back on land, the charming little town of Portmagee awaits us with its typical Irish pubs, its traditional music, pints for everyone and its delicious gastronomy , in which fish and shellfish are undisputed protagonists.
green landscapes among those who hide ancient castles and fortresses surround the area. To finish off the day, the views from Aghadoe Heights , In the town of Killarney , are wonderful and fill with energy and tranquility after having overcome the visit to the remote Skellig Islands.
Portmagee, a charming fishing village
DATA OF INTEREST
The Skellig Islands belong to the Atlantic Coastal Route -also called Wild Atlantic Way -. The route, accessible at all times by road, skirts the rugged west coast of Ireland and exceeds 2,500 kilometers , from the south, starting from Cork , to the north, reaching Donegal.
- Approximate price of the visit departing by boat from Portmagee: 85 euros per person.
- Maximum capacity on excursions with landing at Skellig Michael: 180 visits per day.
- Duration of the journey on land from landing on Skellig Island: 3 hours approximately.
- Duration of the boat tour: About an hour.
- Alternative: there is the possibility of book a boat tour who does not land on Skellig Michael Island but that offers the opportunity to see both the islands and the fauna that inhabits them up close.