Geneva's dolce vita portrayed by Paul Rousteau on the cover of Louis Vuitton's Fashion Eye guide.
This Swiss city not only knows how to have fun, but also takes advantage of its privileged natural environment, where Lake Geneva adds a certain Mediterranean flavor.
WHERE TO SLEEP
** Four Seasons Des Bergues ** _(33, Quai des Bergues) _
Geneva has many imposing and majestic hotels , but none as much as Les Bergues. In operation since 1834, this “great lady of the lake” was the first hotel in Swiss and today, after a recent refurbishment, it looks more glamorous than ever.
On Lake Geneva, the jet of the Jet d'Eau reaches a height of 140 metres.
Comfortably traditional and generous in doses of chic and elegance, Des Bergues exudes luxury and style, lots of style. If money is not an issue, reserve one of the fabulous suites on the second floor, with privileged views, and table for lunch in Lago , a modern Michelin star Italian restaurant.
If the 1,600 Swiss francs (about €1,440) that it costs to spend a night here are out of your budget, settle for taking a glass of champagne between the wooden walls of the Bar des Bergues . (_From €613) _
Rotary Geneva MGallery by Sofitel _(18-20, rue du Cendrier) _
British Russell Sage has been in charge of renovating the motley interiors of this four-star hotel, located in a discreet street of the commercial area north of Lake Geneva.
Now, under his new and charismatic personality -that of the MGallery group-, stone floors and antique furniture they are balanced by blue painted panels and subtle modern lighting.
The candles flicker in the windows of the bar L'Alchemiste , on the ground floor, a good place for a quiet cocktail. The rooms tend to have a classic feel, lined with carpets and with padded headboards that add an atmosphere of one hundred percent Swiss placidity. _(From €250) _
** Hotel N'Vy ** _(18, rue de Richemont) _
It's true, let's just say that the Swiss are not famous for their sense of humor, but the N'vy shows that this stereotype is not entirely justified.
One of the rooms at the Rotary Geneva-MGallery hotel
The first surprise is the interesting setting of the hotel, the Pâquis neighborhood, with its dilapidated aesthetics , their foreign exchange consignment shops, and those suspicious-looking nightclubs. And then there is the idiosyncratic style of the hotel: fun, friendly and with a playful design.
Look out for the brightly colored velvet armchairs in the lobby, the all-white, glass-roofed bar through which you sneak sunlight, urban art and the collection of electric guitars exhibited in showcases. Geneva never felt so rockin'. _(From €165) _
** La Cour des Augustins ** _(15, rue Jean-Violette) _
The new creative epicenter of Geneva , the district of Les Augustins, extends on the north bank of the Arve River, along tram route 12, between Plainpalais and beautiful Carouge.
this original 40 room urban retreat it's the ideal base for exploring the ever-increasing stores of music (on vinyl, of course) and design, and neighborhood ethnic restaurants.
Although the building dates from 1850, the immaculate interior design, the work of Philippe Cramer , it is comfortable and, at the same time, fashionable. Eclectic and very funky furniture, relaxing tones and works by the graffiti artist Meres One as a headboard. _(From €260) _
Samples of urban art and a rock atmosphere at the fun N'Vy hotel.
WHERE TO EAT
A Bout de Soufre _(14, rue Jean-Violette) _
this little and cute bistro , recently opened in the neighborhood of Les Augustins , is the definitive proof that the gastronomic scene of Geneva it moves in the right direction. His motto - “Inspired cuisine and pleasure wines” -, visible in its discreet facade, does not deceive.
From the kitchen at the back of this little place, chef Franck Heyden preaches the virtues of low-carb cooking and respect for the product, offering natural and artisanal wines to pair with them.
The midday seasonal menu (34 Swiss francs, about €30.50 for two courses and dessert) is even high.
Cafe des Bains _(26, rue des Bains) _
Founded in 1901, the Café des Bains has grown from a modest neighborhood eatery to a the most fashionable gastronomic bistro among the city's financial community.
The sunny dining room, with its old school chairs, is located at one end of the Les Bains neighborhood (very convenient to go to MAMCO). and the kitchen chef Rico Alexandre, originally from Madagascar, It's fresh, smart, and as bright and up-to-date as the modern artwork that hang here and there.
Grilled zucchini, miso and wakame at Café des Bains
Try the chicken salad with green papaya and mint. You won't find a daily menu better (29 francs, about €26). Reservation essential.
** Cafe Leo ** _(12, rue Pierre-Fatio) _
a look at famous prices Roberto's , whose lavish (and snobbish) dining room is a favorite of wealthy Middle Eastern businessmen and tycoons, will convince you to try Café Leo instead, near the shopping street Rond-Point de Rive.
Here, the old movie posters and retro wooden furniture create the aesthetics and atmosphere of an old Parisian bistro , although the food is more Italian than French: carpaccios, homemade pasta, agnolotti, fagottini...
As a lunch spot it is lively and, by Geneva standards, pleasantly affordable.
The Lacustrine _(5, quai du Général-Guisan) _
right next to the Mont Blanc bridge , with his fingers in the water, the classic The Lacustrine is the freshwater version of the seafood restaurants that we like so much.
The menu happily mixes local formulas such as perch fillets and fondue with pizzas (try the Sofia Loren) and pasta made to perfection -remember that Italy is right there, on the other side of the border-.
Le Lacustrine restaurant terrace
Try to sit on the terrace, outdoors, to enjoy a fabulous view of the lake and the mountains.
** Les Armures ** _(1, rue du Puits-Saint-Pierre) _
Swiss tradition is firmly established in this venerable hotel and restaurant, located in a wonderful 17th century stone mansion, in the heart of the historic Vieille Ville.
This is the place to delight yourself with local dishes like schübling (swiss sausage) grilled, rösti (a kind of potato omelette without eggs), lake perch fillets or the archetypal cheese fondue , here made moitié-moitié Geneva-style, with Vacherin and Gruyere cheeses.
Don't be fooled by its charming Swiss country house look: The Armor is a five star establishment with five star prices.
WHERE TO HAVE BREAKFAST...OR SNACK
Birdie Food & Coffee _(40, rue des Bains) _
The residents of Les Bains, the neighborhood of art galleries and yoga studios They would be lost without their favorite coffee shop. It's easy to see why: Birdie is the kind of place that would fit effortlessly into anyone's daily routine.
Loyal customers rightly praise the well-selected coffee and carefully prepared in a Marzocco machine handmade.
The Café Birdie is the favorite of the residents of Les Bains, the neighborhood of art galleries.
An extra claim are its famous breakfasts , which are served throughout the day and include from the classics what do hipsters like (porridge, avocado toast...) to croque monsieur and salmon with poached egg. The staff, efficient and with an easy smile.
** Boréal ** _(60, rue du Stand) _
The boring rue du Stand was transformed when this café opened in 2009. If you are looking for a good coffee and you don't want to think too much, Boréal is your place. A modern and elegant place where the baristas care about the perfection of your cup.
Regulars come for **the cappuccino (with hazelnut or almond milk for vegans)**, the espresso shots served in chocolate-coated cones, and the scrumptious 'Après Ski', a coffee with milk with chestnut syrup, chantilly cream and almond coverage. It has three other stores in the city.
HAVE A DRINK
_ L'Apothicaire Cocktail Club (16, boulevard Georges-Favon) _
Cocktail bars abound in Geneva for sensitive and stylish drinkers, but L'Apothicaire stands out for its dark interiors, its expert and multilingual waiters and its friendly atmosphere , as well as for its impeccable cocktails, which include classics of today and always like the Dry Martini or the Negroni and original creations with spices and exotic fruits.
Try the HerbalRoad , a refreshing mix of gin and Chartreuse liqueur with elderflower syrup and fresh basil with soda.
The decoration of Le Marcel takes you to the old bars of the south of France.
The Marcel _(6, rue Dancet) _
The decoration takes us to the South of France : village coffee tables, bare lightbulbs, vintage Pernod ad signs... and even petanque to enjoy a game with a glass of pastis in hand, or even a prosecco or a craft beer from local manufacturers Des Murailles or La Nebuleuse.
Le Marcel's formula for success includes **a menu of traditional croques (French-style sandwiches)**, perfect to round off a night of drinks and petanque.
** Tabouret Bar ** _(38, rue de la Coulouvrenière) _
One of the places that add a touch of distinction to the impoverished port-industrial environment of rue de la Coulouvrenière is this new branch of the famous Le Neptune restaurant by Nicolas Darnauguilhem.
It is a nice after-work Specialized in Swiss and natural wines, craft beers and cocktails full of imagination.
Regulars love the high tables and low lighting, the greenery hanging from pots, and the great food. The best: homemade Provençal fougasse served with cheese, pickles and charcuterie.
SHOPPING
Halle de Rive _(29, boulevard Helvetique) _
This is the proposal: a covered market in the heart of the city where the products are of the highest quality (and almost always from the region) and everything is presented with love. Among the 23 stalls are greengrocers, butchers, delicatessens and Italians like Casa Mozzarella and Delizioso.
A more intimate corner? Tabouret Bar
In Magne and Feuad they sell excellent food to take away (try the Lebanese beef tabbouleh Feuad). Do you want to take home a sample of the best in Swiss cheese? **Go to the Fromagerie Bruand **.
And then give yourself a break with **a coffee at the Bistrot des Halles bar**. Go on Saturday, when local growers set up their stalls outside the market.
Les Enfants Terribles _(24, rue Prevost-Martin) _
in the popup augustines neighborhood , this ultra-stylish furniture warehouse housed in an old garage is almost certainly the coolest store in Geneva. The space is designed to make shopping a pleasure and design freaks will find themselves like a fish in water.
The nordic simplicity is the dominant aspect and among the main brands, many of Scandinavian origin, include Muuto, Andersen, Jorgensen and Carl Hansen.
If you find prices demoralizing, regain your composure with a glass of wine at the store's bar , an urban oasis.
Philippe Pascoet _(12, rue Saint-Joseph Carouge) _
Chocolate is, along with watches, the pride of Geneva. Of all the chocolate shops that pop up all over the city, the most reputable are ** Auer , Bonbonnière , Sprungli , Micheli , Lederach and Du Rhone **, but Philippe Pascoët's, in the picturesque Carouge village it is a lesser known gem.
You have to be warned at Philippe Pascoët's chocolate shop: if you try them you'll become addicted.
Pascoët shows a modern trend of the current chocolate industry, using in its exquisite (and precious) creations subtle aromas such as saffron, verbena, currants or lime. Notice: the chocolate covered caramelized pistachios it is dangerously addictive.
DO NOT MISS
Bains des Paquis _(30, quai du Mont-Blanc) _
If the democratic spirit of authentic Geneva is expressed anywhere, it is in these public baths (hamman included) located in the port, on the shores of the lake. The Bains du Pâquis are a beloved institution among residents of all ages.
In summer (although the baths are always open), a good plan is to join the locals in their morning dip and later see how the famous Jet d'Eau fountain launches its vertical jet of water 140 meters high.
A small cooperative-run restaurant serves simple meals (yes, sure, they have fondue) at outdoor tables. Tuesdays are reserved for women only.
MAMCO _(10, rue des Vieux Grenadiers) _
The Patek Philippe museum is great if you're interested in watches, and there's a very different museum just a few streets away. **MAMCO is the most important public contemporary art institution in Switzerland ** and the cultural epicenter of the Bains district.
Four floors and a total of 3,500 square meters of diaphanous spaces with a post-industrial aesthetic (the building was built to house a factory) are the backdrop for the displays of Swiss modern art for which the center is famous. Admission is free on the first Sunday of the month.
** L'Usine ** _(4, place des Volontaires) _
This cultural center occupies an old factory on the banks of the Rhône and shows that Geneva is neither so serious nor so conservative. It hosts everything from anarchist meetings, comedy nights and techno raves to avant-garde films in the Spoutnik cinema screen.
The avant-garde atmosphere of the building and its black painted corridors will make you feel that you are in the East Berlin instead of in safe and well-to-do Switzerland.
White water rafting at La Jonction _(3, sentier des Saules) _
During the summer days, Geneva shows its most hedonistic side at the ** Buvette de la Jonction **, a riverside bar with live music and terraces to rest.
This stretch of water right where the rivers Arve and Rhône meet , offers the main entertainment for a hot afternoon: dive into the crystal clear water and drift with the current to the swimming platform downstream.
Pay attention to how the locals do it and just have fun.