The route of the magical castles of Bierzo
Spain is full of castles that have witnessed wars, betrayals, loves, conquests and secrets that remain eternally guarded under the custody of its walls. Unlike other fortresses in Europe, most castles in Spain they were not palaces, but had defensive and military functions and, to a large extent, were concentrated in Castile. Castile and Leon , an outstanding area both at the time of the conquest and that of the reconquest, it is dotted with huge defensive buildings.
We traveled to one of the stops on the Santiago's road, El Bierzo (Leon) , a region steeped in natural, cultural and historical wealth . There, seven castles stand in magnificent natural spaces and a few kilometers from each other. Until a certain point, the castles of bercianos they represent a differential variant with respect to the Castilians and Spaniards. And it is that, having these primarily a defensive purpose, the Bercians also had it as a House-Palace and served as protection for pilgrims. Are you ready to travel back in time?
Templar Castle
1.THE TEMPLAR CASTLE (PONFERRADA)
We got to the city of Ponferrada (A6 – Exit 387), the capital of El Bierzo, to discover the imposing Templar Castle , the great symbol of the city. Declared National Historical Monument , stands on a hill in the confluence of the Boeza and Sil rivers . We discovered that the environment in which it is located was a celtic hill fort and subsequently, a Roman and Visigothic settlement . We choose a guided tour in which they tell us the story of how this construction of military architecture from the mid-13th century was enlarged on a Roman citadel. to protect the Camino de Santiago.
“The Templar history of the castle began in 1178 , when Ferdinand II of León allowed the order of the templars were established in the current Ponferrada. The current building is heir to the previous Templar castle, of which part of the primitive wall and some factories . It underwent great changes from the 14th and 15th centuries, first with the Castro family and, later, with the Count of Lemos, to whom most of the current structures are due. The latest archaeological excavations have located foundations of a pre-Roman settlement . The castle hosts the Templar Library and Center for Research and Historical Studies of Ponferrada, with nearly 1,400 books, including facsimiles of works by Leonardo Da Vinci”, the castle guide tells us in detail.
Visiting hours are from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. and from 4:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. If you choose the afternoon schedule, you will enjoy a bucolic sunset . It is very close to the old town of Ponferrada, where it is essential to take a walk and enjoy its many restaurants to feel the authentic flavors of Bercianos such as the bottle , its most traditional dish, and its wide variety of wines.
2.- SAN BLAS CASTLE (COUNTRYSIDE)
Just 5 minutes from Ponferrada on the road to Molinaseca is found the field town , in which is located the Castle of San Blas ; You can also walk from the old town of Ponferrada, a pleasant walk of just 1 kilometer away.
This peculiar castle is popularly known by many as " the bachelor's castle ” because its many owners never got to marry or have a family and this circumstance has brought many entanglements when it comes to resolving the inheritance about who appropriated this fortress. It is located at the foot of the Boeza River and was built by the lawyer Daniel Valdés who died in 1904 and, having no children, his nephew kept it Miguel Fustegueras , known for having the greatest fortune in El Bierzo in the last century, and who also had no children.
Let's save the Castle of San Blas
We cross a path full of large pine trees, a plantation of fruit trees, some olive trees and even laurel while we observe in the background the charming castle, with airs of Walt Disney, on a large rock. The Castle of San Blas It surprises those who visit it due to its fanciful style, its three neo-Gothic towers and the viewpoint on the banks of the river. Currently, it belongs to the Fustegueras Foundation but access is free and can be visited at any time of the day. Recently, a platform was launched to save this castle and to declare Well of Cultural Interest with the intention of becoming a stop on the Camino de Santiago . Hopefully they get it!
3.CORNATEL CASTLE (PRIARANZA DEL BIERZO)
Following the N-536 road (16 km from Ponferrada) it is essential to make a stop at the Castle of Cornatel , a 13th century building that originally belonged to the Order of the Temple and, later, the Count of Lemos and the Marquises of Villafranca . This beautiful and complete castle is located on top of a rock near Villavieja (Municipality of Priaranza del Bierzo ) and less than 10 kilometers from Las Médulas, where it is also a good option to come and enjoy the largest open-pit gold mine in the entire Roman Empire.
It is a castle of 13th century of enormous beauty , imposing on top of a precipice, which gives it an air of legend and mystery . On the way up to the watchtower we find a sign that tells us that here is “The most beautiful bench in El Bierzo” . Upon arrival, we observe dizzying panoramic views of the Bercian mountain. We enter and discover the history of the settlement of the castle that begins in Roman times; It was built for defensive purposes, both due to its natural position and the two openings in its perimeter walls, although it is believed that it was initially a religious settlement and not a military one.
Like the one in Ponferrada, it belonged to the order of the Temple and, later, it became the property of the Counts of Lemos and Marquises of Villafranca . The building, after multiple wars, was forgotten, although in the 20th century interest began to preserve it and in 1949 was declared a Site of Cultural Interest . In 1999, given the deterioration in which it was found, the Association of friends of the Castle of Cornatel that with his effort has managed to bring it to the current state of restoration. The ticket price is 3 euros and children up to 12 years old can enter for free.
Castle of Cornatel
4. THE CASTLE-PALACE OF THE MARQUISES OF VILLAFRANCA (VILLAFRANCA DEL BIERZO)
Continuing along the Northwest motorway (A6) we find ourselves in Villafranca del Bierzo with another interesting castle in the middle town of Burbia. Villafranca Castle , 16th century fortress served as the home of Manuela Caro y Carvajal (heir to the Marquises of Villafranca and who died in 2017) and her husband, the famous composer D. Christopher Halffter , recently passed away (on May 23, 2021), so its interior cannot be visited. Currently, ways are being discussed to conserve both the castle and the valuable pieces inside.
We take a walk through this beautiful village that is known as the " small Compostela ” and in which pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago could find forgiveness. Villafranca del Bierzo is the historical capital of the entire region and hides within it an admirable artistic heritage that is well worth a visit. The best thing is to wander around freely on a walk that takes us directly to its medieval origins always latent in every corner or in the Plaza Mayor where we make a stop to have a good D.O Bierzo wine.
Castle of the Marquises of Villafranca
5.THE CASTLE OF CORULLON (CORULLÓN)
Not far from Villafranca, we find Corullón Castle , strength of private property, which preserves its three-story quadrangular tower that reminds us of other buildings in Tuscany . It was built as a mansion and recreation for the Rodriguez Valcarce family in the fourteenth century, on a Roman fort and a medieval tower. Later, it belonged to the family Álvarez Osorio (Count of Lemos) until 1482 later passing into the hands of the Alvarez Toledo . The castle currently belongs to the descendants of the Marquises of Villafranca.
Corullón Castle
6.- SARRACÍN CASTLE (VEGA DE VALCARCE)
Just 20 minutes from Corullón we arrived at Vega de Valcarc and where is the Sarracín Castle , located on top of Mount Vilela. They tell us that this castle it was founded by a local nobleman in the 10th century and remodeled in yes fourteenth , when it passes into the hands of Marquis of Villafranca , and finally becoming the property of the Counts of Lemos. The fortress is strategically located on the right bank of the valley, controlling the passage and safety of all pilgrims passing through the area.
Sarracín Castle
7.BALBOA CASTLE (BALBOA)
Located on a hill that dominates the valley and just 11 km from Vega de Valcarce, this 14th-century fortress was built for defensive purposes, like most of the castles in Bierzo. We walk along a path under the shade of chestnut trees, most of which are centuries old, until we reach the fortress. It passed from hand to hand for three centuries (It belonged to D. García Rodríguez, advanced mayor of Galicia, and was sold to the Catholic Monarchs in the 16th century, who incorporated it into the Crown of León). Legend has it that Vasco Núñez de Balboa , the "first European to see the Pacific Ocean", has descendants of this town or, and that his father was a hidalgo of this castle (and, therefore, they share a name). It is essential to take a walk through Balboa and eat at one of its pallozas. We recommend you stop for a drink at the Aguita Mill.
Battles in Roman times, prominent nobles and the Camino de Santiago have made the Bierzo an indisputable region of fortresses full of stories, some of which may never be told.
Balboa Castle Ruins
WHERE TO SLEEP AND EAT
We chose the Hotel de Floriana (Molinaseca) to stay and rest but also because it is the perfect place to enjoy the delicious cuisine of Berciana in its restaurant and that is what we are looking for after arriving exhausted from this route of strengths. It is a modern hotel, made of wood, slate and glass , traditional elements that merge with the nature of their surroundings.
There is a romantic atmosphere, jazz music sounds and the smell of jasmine. It is the perfect place to unwind and enjoy a bath in one of its Jacuzzis, a tasty breakfast in its garden or even a good delicacy for lunch or dinner. Its succulent innovative and traditional fusion cuisine makes it one of the most prominent and acclaimed restaurants in the entire region. . We tasted a traditional fusion menu with foie chocolates, gyozas stuffed with creamy botillo, scallop carpaccio, blueberry caviar and tempura octopus... dishes that lead us to an authentic explosion of flavours. The taste of Bierzo is one of those that is not forgotten!