48 hours in Parma, the Italian city that it is time to put on the map
Decadent and majestic in equal parts, Parma It is the perfect enclave to get off the tourist circuit and soak up the essence of the country that loves gastronomy, fashion, history and culture.
Parma is one of those cities that tourists do not seem to pay too much attention to when passing through Italy . Relegated on numerous occasions by its neighbors Bologna , Verona and Milan , it is worth making a stop along the way to discover what was once the capital of the historic Duchy of Parma , until after the revolutions of 1848 a unification of Italy was achieved and finally in 1860 the city of Parma became part of the Kingdom of Italy in its own right.
just for this detail we should already put it on the map , but today there are numerous attractions that will make us enter a destination full of life, delicious gastronomy, impressive monuments, a enviable student environment , nail famous violets that bloom every spring, a remarkable medieval architecture and a cultural and historical heritage with which to discover something new at every step.
But tell it to Napoleon that he let himself be conquered by this place from start to finish.
A city that goes unnoticed... and shouldn't
Thanks to its size, this city belonging to the region of Emilia-Romagna , is easy to explore on foot: most of its tourist spots are located in the historic center, banks of Torrent Parma (a tributary of the river Po) .
Also known as the 'capital of music' , saw the birth -in the capital itself or its surroundings- of great artistic figures of the stature of Giuseppe Verdi or Arturo Toscanini and today you can still see his musical imprint impregnated in the city.
Parma is one of those places that still maintains the essence of a culturally rich and stately past who wants to look to the future but without leaving behind what identifies him and makes him unique.
FRIDAY
6:00 p.m. After leaving the luggage, we began by walking around the old town to take over its streets. Because of its small size and flat surface, it is easy move by bicycle from one place to another . In this way, we discover the city from a different point of view. Enter the Piazza del Duomo mounted pedaling and seeing monuments such as the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta at nightfall is an idyllic way to start our trip.
better by bike
8:00 p.m. . It's time to experience its best attraction: the gastronomy . Because we must not forget that it could be considered as 'the capital of Italian gastronomy' . Two of its star products, parmesan cheese (parmigiano) and the parma ham (prosciutto di Parma), they have their own Protected Designation of Origin.
Originally from the city or its surroundings, they can be tasted with honors in most restaurants, premises or delicatessens that will arise as we pass through it. To take the famous italian Appetizer, we just have to approach from the Piazza Garibaldi until reaching the Strada Luigi Carlo Farini, the quintessential street where to start the night or enjoy a refreshing spritz or beer.
Both locals and tourists of all ages come here to move from place to place and frequent the world-famous aperitif from work until late at night, especially on weekends.
You only need to choose a seat in some of the establishments on the street itself and, for very little, we will have our drink accompanied by food presented as a buffet showing from mini-pizzas, sandwiches, sausages, cheeses or nuts to calm our hunger until dinner time.
Historic center of Parma
There are those who go overboard with food and leave no room for what comes after, so there is also the option of move from bar to bar and dine this way.
halfway to Luigi Carlo Farini we find ** Il Tribunalino ** _(Luigi Carlo Farini, 29) _ with its large terrace where you can enjoy an aperitif on good weather days.
9:30 p.m. If we wish to dine at the table some of the delicious pasta or meat dishes so characteristic of the area , we have two options that will not disappoint the diner. A few steps from where we are, we have Trattoria del Tribunale _(Vicolo Politi, 5) _ where the horse meat dishes -typical of this area of Italy- or the pumpkin stuffed pasta They are a guaranteed success. If we walk some more, we find him Golden Rooster _(Borgo della Salina, 3) _ where tortelli di Erbetta and torta fritta e salume are the order of the day.
11:00 p.m. To sleep there is a wide range of accommodations suitable for all budgets in the center of Parma. In the heart of the city is located the Palazzo dalla Rossa Prati _(Str. Duomo, 7) _ a historic enclave that has been converted into boutique hotel on the same square as the church with views of the duomo and right next to the baptistery, making it the perfect place to start discovering the rest of the city. Their diaphanous spaces, its decoration taken care of in detail and its exemplary service conquer the guest from the first moment.
Italian pasta, how could it be otherwise in Parma
SATURDAY
10:00 a.m. . After giving us a spectacular tribute over breakfast, it's time to put on comfortable shoes and hit the cobbled streets of the city.
We can start our tour very close to torrent parma river, specifically in the Ducale Park (known to Italians simply as 'The garden' ) was a project of the farnese family from the end of the 16th century and the beginning of the 17th century, which was expanded over the decades until making this majestic park full of sumptuousness and beauty.
We can get to Trianon Fountain It is located at the end of the park to, later, retrace our steps until we leave the enclosure.
11:30 a.m. Just on the opposite side, on the other side of the river, one of the most beloved architectural elements awaits us: the Palazzo della Pilotta . It is named this way by the I play ball of the Spanish soldiers stationed in the city.
Farnese Theater
Today, it hosts a wide variety of cultural and historical attractions which are a real gem for art lovers. In total, we can find within this conglomerate the Galleria Nazionale, the Archaeological Museum, the Palatine Library and the Farnese Theater.
The library open to the public is of incalculable beauty and the Farnese Theater well deserves a separate mention, because one can not imagine everything that is hidden inside until you experience it in the first person.
With a complete wooden structure it was built in 1618 by Giovanni Battista Aleotti and although it was almost destroyed during World War II, it was rebuilt and reopened to the public in 1962 . Baroque in style, it is one of the few existing theaters with such characteristics today, making it a architectural gem that both locals and tourists fall in love with.
2:00 p.m. As we still have things to see, the best thing is to eat something fast, but make it delicious, as Italian cuccina commands. Such a description is called pepen (Borgo Vicolo Sant'Ambrogio, 2), located in the heart of the city a few steps from Piazza Garibaldi and the Università degli Studi di Parma.
Try their delicious gourmet sandwiches It is an experience that we will always remember from our trip through Italy. And what should we ask yes or yes? The quintessential sandwich is one that includes horse meat, so we must opt for the raw horse pesto either polpete di horse . Absolutely delicious!
4:00 p.m. Let's continue visiting the Teatro Reggio and the Basilica di San Maria della Stecatta. A few steps from this is the Piazza del Duomo with its cathedral as the main claim. Named as Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta , is Romanesque in style and was built at the end of the 11th century. Next to it is the Baptistery, the Episcopal Palace, the Chiesa di San Giovanni Evangelista.
5:30 p.m. We cannot be in Parma without visiting -or tasting- first-hand some of the spectacular meats and cheeses so emblematic of the region. Starting with him Prosciutto di Parma and for the cheese parmigiano , but without stopping there... bresaloa, the salsiccia, the salami, the speck and the pancetta They are a real delight for meat lovers.
Leaving behind the majestic Piazza Garibaldi, we cross the well-known Via Farini to stop at number 9 . Right here is one of the cheese and sausage temples s best known in all of Parma, the Prosciutteria di Silvano Romani.
The temple of Italian cured meat in Parma
Founded in 1965 in the San Lazzaro neighborhood , can currently boast of having two purchase points for its exceptional gourmet products. essential to make a technical stop to test your gender and, why not, buy a good shipment to take as a souvenir on our return to Spain. ¡ Family, friends and colleagues will thank us for the rest of our days!
8:00 p.m. We can give the traditional passegiata Italian and opt for any of the places to close the day with a refreshing beer, wine or spritz . After this break, he plays a dinner with honors in one of the most emblematic places of Parma: Trattoria Corrieri _(Str. Conservatory, 1) _.
lead from 1800 offering -probably- the best pasta dishes . And it is not an exaggeration. Due to its fame, it is recommended Reserve . Although at first glance it may seem small, we are in front of a large two-story venue with a patio for good weather days.
The checkered tablecloths and the frantic comings and goings of the waiters coming and going from one place to another, are the clear example that we find ourselves in a traditional trattoria. Where to start? By fried cake accompanied by its sausages, and continue with the pasta dishes (their tagliatelle with ragout, the tris di ravioli and the cappelletti with ragout, for example).
The best pasta in Parma?
10:30 p.m. The dessert can be savored in run or approach us Gioelia Cremeria , until recently known as Emilia Cremeria (Via Farini, 29). The quality of the raw material, its location and the great variety of flavours, have made it one of the essentials of Parma. The temple of Italian ice cream was this.
SUNDAY: GETAWAY TO MODENA
9:30 a.m. Whether in a rented vehicle or by train, the distance that separates Parma of Modena is almost so insignificant that it is worth approaching the city where the famous balsamic vinegar to know everything that it can offer you (which is not little).
In a journey of less than an hour, we arrive at this place that can boast of having a academic environment, a cultural proposal that has nothing to envy to other Italian enclaves and a delicious gastronomy so typical of the Emilia-Romagna region.
11:00 a.m. What should we not miss on our tour of Modena? Right in the center of the city is the historic center with its Piazza Grande , guarded by the Duomo of the city (one of the creations of romantic style most relevant throughout Europe). Both the tower of the cathedral known as Ghirlandin, the Duomo and the Piazza Grande They are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
When it comes to museums, palaces and churches, Modena has a lot to say about it. The Palazzo Ducale, the Chiesa di Santa Maria delle Assi, the Parrocchia di San Francesco di Assisi, the Chiesa di San Pietro or the Palazzo dei Musei They are a must visit.
12:30 p.m. At mid-morning, the Albinelli Market is in full swing. stalls full of fresh pasta, vegetables, balsamic vinegar vegetables, sausages, cheeses, oils and even lambrusco they will become our absolute undoing. We can whet our appetite at some of the market stalls and proceed to the tasting of some of their pasta and cold cuts . And let's not forget to buy a bottle of balsamic vinegar.
Castle of Torrechiara
2:00 p.m. If we choose to sit down after this visit, right next to the market there are Bottega Mamma Puglia _(Via Luigi Albinelli, 32) _ and the Trattoria Aldina (Via Luigi Albinelli, 40). If we go to the first, we must taste the delicious panini from a wide variety of ingredients inspired by different corners of Italy; If we opt for the second place, without a doubt, pasta will predominate in our meal. Both 100% delicious.
3:30 p.m. After eating, the Enzo Ferrari Museum . An exhibition focused on the life and work of the founder of the famous Car brand and that it is a true fantasy for those who know how to appreciate designer cars.
5:00 p.m. After leaving the museum, it is time to take the car or the train to return to Parma. On the way back, we can deviate a bit until we reach the Castle of Torrechiara , one of the best preserved fortresses in all of Italy, which stands on top of a mountain massif guarding the valley below.
Here is the perfect spot to watch the sunset . Once witnessed this bucolic moment, it's time to head to the city to spend our last hours there. Will it be time to enjoy it as it deserves, right? In the purest hedonistic style, of course.
Modena Cathedral