48 hours in Turin, capital of the Duchy of Savoy, of the Kingdom of Sardinia and the first capital of Italy, may not be enough. But it is possible. We get lost in this city flooded with museums and elegant palaces that, in addition, this 2022 has become the headquarters of the Eurovision Song Contest.
DAY 1: FROM THE REGGIA DI VENARIA TO QUADRILATERO
The best way to start a route 48 hours in Turin is to start from the Reggia di Venaria, a beautiful palace that it was the residence of the Savoy family and that it requires prior reservation to be able to visit it.
It took 50 years to build it and although it does not preserve the original gardens, one can let one's imagination take over and recreate the festivities celebrated by the Royal House of Savoy , high-society gossip in its ballroom that retains its black-and-white checkered marble floor.
Is baroque beauty It is said that it served as inspiration for palaces such as Versailles, and despite its incalculable beauty, it was in a state of abandonment since the 18th century until it was recovered, restored and declared World Heritage by UNESCO in 1997.
Interior of the Reggia di Venaria Church.
From here we could take a bus that would take us to the quadrilateral , our next stop, but the road becomes fast if we want to be adventurous and follow the Vía Lanzo.
The quadrilateral is the germ of what Turin was in roman times and that opens its doors through the Market of Porta Palazzo , which today is one of the largest open-air markets in Europe.
Peeking at the stalls is necessary just before getting hungry. From here we go through the Palatine Gate , which is one of the Roman remains that the city still conserves and which was formerly known as Julia Augusta Taurinorum.
The Royal Palace he's waiting for us; but in the middle of the morning you feel like a second breakfast, so we go to Vía Po and stop at Torteria Berlicabarbis, where we break with the traditional (and with hunger) and order a tea that we accompany with a piece of the thousands of cakes that seem to pose impetuous in the showcases.
In this foodporn cake temple you can buy infusions by weight , or enjoy them in a special environment, which we could almost feel as "country and Provencal".
With the body full of glucose we reach the Piazza del Castello, where the Royal Palace is located. The Italian monarchy resided in this marvel of architecture for many years and was the seat of the capital of Italy from 1861 to 1865.
It is another of Turin's UNESCO Heritage treasures, and the price of admission also includes visit to the Sabauda Gallery, which displays an incredible collection of Flemish painting, the Museum of Antiquities and the Royal Armoury.
Next to him is the Madame's Palace , a beautiful Baroque mansion that is home to the Civic Museum of Ancient Art and, of course, the Cathedral of San Giovanni of Turin, a very special place of pilgrimage for devout Catholics since it supposedly guards the original shroud that covered Jesus Christ after his death.
It is not shown to the public more than every 25 years, which is why an exact replica is exhibited in the Museo della Sindone, on Via Domenico.
Cathedral of San Giovanni, Turin.
Next to the Cathedral it is necessary stop to eat at Piola da Cianci (Largo 4 March 9), a place that you probably won't find in any guide and where you can enjoy Piedmontese cuisine in all its splendor at much more than reasonable prices.
Vitello tonnato, stewed pork, tiramisu and pairings where the Nebbiolo grape is the protagonist, because that is why we are in Turin.
If we still have the strength to continue and we want to see the replica of the Holy Shroud, it is vital picnic in the adjoining Piazza della Consolata , where you will find an essential of Turin, the Café Al Bicerin.
It gets its name because this is where we can find one of the specialties of the Turin cafeteria, the Bicerín. Its formula is simple coffee, chocolate and milk cream sweetened with a sweet syrup. Also the cream zabaioni here play in another league , a perfect snack accompanied by Piedmontese biscuits and chocolate.
We have lunched in a Turin classic, much loved by artists and writers. personalities like Nietzsche or Alexandre Dumas succumbed to the charms of this historic, wooden-walled cafe; a picture that Umberto Eco described in detail in his work “The Prague Cemetery”.
We left Al Bicerín and found ourselves in front of the Piazza San Carlo , where the Twin Churches, San Carlos Borromeo and Santa Cristina, are located, two almost identical baroque temples located opposite each other.
View of Turin.
The last stage of this first day ends here, in front of the Egyptian Museum and Palazzo Carignano left for our second chapter. It's time for dinner and from here we have several options.
If we manage to book in the Change Restaurant in the same piazza Carignano we can enjoy a Michelin star luxury menu in a restaurant that opened in 1757 and has a spectacular cocktail bar.
If we skirt the block we reach Bistrot Turin (Po 21), a small restaurant somewhat hidden specialized in Piedmont-style meat and fish Generous quantities at a more than fair price. That along with fine wines and cheeses from the country. You can eat inside the restaurant or under the beautiful portico that runs along Via Po.
DAY 2: FROM THE QUADRILATERAL TO THE PO
Our second day will take us on a route from Quadrilatero to the Po River, and we start it visiting the Egyptian Museum from Turin , one of the most important in the world in this matter and which is said to keep more than 20,000 pieces from ancient Egypt.
The idea is to have breakfast Turin coffee , in the same square of San Carlo, which was the favorite of Ava Gardner and that it still has its original neon sign (it's over a hundred years old).
Behind the museum is the Palazzo Carignano (which we would have enjoyed if we had dined the day before at the Del Cambio restaurant), a Baroque treasure that, naturally, houses a museum inside: the one of the Italian Unification.
Our route through Turin follows the nearby Via Po, leaving the Royal Museum aside and protecting us from the sun under its powerful arcaded roof. From here you arrive at one of the icons of Turin, the Mole Antonelliana.
Is old synagogue It has a spectacular view from above and can be accessed by going up by elevator. In addition it is the home of the National Museum of Cinema and in the dome movies and cinematographic cycles are projected. It takes a couple of hours to visit and is a must for anyone visiting Turin (not just movie buffs).
At this point in the route, it will be time to eat and we will have left Via Po behind. Two blocks away there is a very original place to eat without waiting called poormanger (Maria Victoria 36).
The specialty of the menu are the boiled potatoes with skin , stuffed with a thousand things and seasoned with all kinds of sauces. A light and unusual lunch in a casual and elegant setting and not to lose too much time. Some of these stuffed potatoes are true works of art.
Villa della Regina, Turin.
The end of Via Po leads to the very bank of the river, where stands imposing Victor Emmanuel I Bridge . If we cross the bridge we will meet the Villa della Regina , a baroque palace from the 17th century that is worth visiting even if we deviate a bit from the route.
This villa was the residence of the sovereigns of Savoy for centuries and today, in addition to being a charming vineyard complex , its labyrinthine gardens look like something out of a movie.
We return to the riverbed until we reach the valentine park , a green lung that hides very romantic corners to immortalize the moment. In this park rises the Medieval Town , a medieval town that was built to the Italian Exposition of 1884 and that recreated a fifteenth-century citadel.
The Castello del Valentino is also located here, another of the residences of the Savoy family and which currently belongs to the Polytechnic University of Turin.
Parco del Valentino, Borgo Medievale.
If you still have strength, you have to continue further along the riverbed until you reach the National Automobile Museum . Turin is the headquarters of Fiat and the car is part of the hallmarks of this beautiful Piedmontese city. It is one of the most important collections in the world, with a great presence of national brands such as Lamborghini, Ferrari or Maserati.
We have then arrived at the Lingotto neighborhood, the place where two perfect endings for this adventure are located.
On the one hand, enjoy the collection of paintings of the Agnelli Gallery , one of the most curious galleries in the city, designed by Renzo Piano. On the other hand, crossing the Via Filadelfia and meeting up with all the mogollón that at this point is already in the surroundings of the Palasport Olimpico, the place where Eurovision is celebrated.
Pinacoteca Agnelli in Turin.
We already want to have dinner and a great option is to return to Via Po and look for From Varsa La Capanna dei Nonni (Guastalla 20), a small restaurant of what they call "beautiful people" that is not very well known.
Very curious decoration. In fact, they have inside a swing and a vintage caravan where you can eat inside. Here they play with the outsiders with mastery, so you have to take risks with the Italian because each visit is an adventure.
And as we have exhausted our 48 hours in Turin and we are next to Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the quintessential night spot in the city, we cannot help but get lost in its bars and cocktail bars . There are many options but not to fail, but we propose Flora , located in the same square. Cocktail and live the night, which is two days. Well, they have been.
EXTRA EXTRA
- Where to sleep? There is nothing like living an experience as local as possible. The Belvilla vacation home rental company has an interesting catalogue.
- The best views of Turin meet on the Monte dei Cappuccini , an excursion that will take you to an old convent and a wonderful baroque church. The sunsets from there are priceless.
- Turin is recognized throughout Europe as one of the most inclusive cities for the LGBTQ+ world. Diversity is part of their DNA.
- In winter, during the theatrical season , the shows of the "Chi è di Scena" company, the first Turin-based theater company to collaborate with the Compagnia della Rancia, are one of the city's greatest cultural attractions. It is another reason to travel to Turin out of season.
- Almost everything in Turin is paid, so if you don't want to leave half salary on the trip, the best is to get the Torino Card . This pass card allows you to enter the most important monuments of Turin for a reasonable price and depending on the days you need.