Travel notebook: directions to fall in love with Montenegro

Anonim

Landscapes that will leave you speechless

Landscapes that will leave you speechless

From the stunning Bay of Kotor to Lake Skadar and from the wooded Dinaric Alps to a rugged coastline that Lord Byron defined as the most beautiful in the world: Montenegrin Will not leave you indifferent.

WHERE TO SLEEP

Aman Sveti Stefan _(Sveti Stefan)_

It is not only the best hotel in Montenegro... but one of the best in Europe and the world , a destination in itself and a true ode to perfection. It is an island that in the fifteenth century was inhabited by fishermen and to which the legend unites Barbarossa himself.

Aman Resorts has turned the place into 50 rooms, cottages and suites which is joined by the no less imposing Villa Milocer , located just opposite and former summer residence of the Queen Maria of Romania.

Panoramic view of the Bay of Kotor and Gospa od Škrpjela island from Perast.

Panoramic view of the Bay of Kotor and Gospa od Škrpjela island from Perast.

private beaches , yacht service, spa, swimming pools... everything you need and more is here_. (From €608) _

Iberostar Heritage Grand Perast _(Marka Martinovica, Perast) _

The Spanish hotel group saw the enormous potential of the Bay of Kotor as an imminent luxury destination and in 2018 it landed in Perast, the prettiest town on this fjord insultingly beautiful no matter where you look at it.

A 18th century palace at the level of the water gives life to this bet for its Heritage stamp. The best option to experience Kotor with the decadence and splendor that its venetian past deserve. _(From €150) _

Regent Porto Montenegro _(Obala bb, Tivat) _

Created together with Tivat , within the Bay of Kotor, in response to the boom in the area, Porto Montenegro looks more to the future than to the past and intends a luxury closer to that of other European ports , stunning yachts included.

Bling-bling with hotel response including villas, penthouses and residences and every imaginable comfort. _(From €189) _

** The Chedi Luštica Bay ** _(Novo Naselje b.b, Radovići) _

Lustica peninsula look at the Adriatic and the Bay of Kotor, perfect epicenter to enjoy dips in both waters.

The views from the Iberostar Heritage Grand Perast are impressive

The views from the Iberostar Heritage Grand Perast are impressive

Quieter than Tivat and without the bustle of expendable Budva (save for Stari Grad , its beautiful old city), has its best hook in this hotel. It is part of ** The Leading Hotels of The World ** and has private beach. _(From €149) _

** Palazzo Radomiri ** _(Dobrota, Kotor) _

We couldn't resist including this cozy boutique hotel, simple but full of little details and antiques and located in a small town just after Kotor. Perfect for those who seek the authenticity of the quiet life in Las Bocas. With pool , precious here, and direct access to the water. a delight _(From €188) _

One & Only Portonovi _(Kotor Bay, Herceg Novi) _

The most obvious example that something big is brewing in Montenegrin ... for better or worse. One&Only Resorts, powerful dubai hotel group , finalizes the details of this complex a few kilometers from the Croatian border and just at the beginning of Bocas.

will be 140 rooms, villas and residences , apart from a port and a beauty and health center under the seal of the exclusive Henri Chenot . _(Next opening) _

WHERE TO EAT

** Nobu ** _(Sveti Stefan) _

Pop-up format (opens only in the summer season) of the famous restaurant and hotel chain of Robert de Niro and Nobu Matsuhisa , is located opposite the Aman Sveti Stefan, where most of its clientele comes from.

Detail of one of the pools in Aman Sveti Stefan

Detail of one of the pools in Aman Sveti Stefan

Part of the team that has passed through here is now in charge of Nobu Barcelona , newly opened and in this case is also a hotel.

Bokeski Gusti _(Jadranska magistrala, Prčanj) _

The luxury here is to eat between “walls” made from old fishing nets , at the edge of the water and with red checkered tablecloths.

the ubiquitous Kotor mussels (they are raised here), fish soup, squid and risottos They are the perfect aperitif with a bottle of white wine before diving from the table.

Mademoiselle _(Jadranska magistrala, Prčanj) _

A few meters from the previous one, its menu is not so much based on fish and, while during the day it is perfect for a snacks under the olive tree (local ham and cheese, carpaccio...) and a few dips , at night it brings out its romantic side and offers live music and candlelight dinners.

Tanjga _(Suranj Bb, Kotor) _

Let no one think of Kotor as a fish paradise... because it is not. Montenegrin cuisine handles better Italian meats and pasta and pizza. That's why this carnivorous steakhouse is one of the most popular in the area. Bustling, simple and with a wide range of meats to take away or take in your garden.

Klinci Village Resort _(Luštica, 85340 Klinci) _

A tiny abandoned village on the Luštica peninsula is today a cozy country hotel famous for its cuisine... and the courses they teach.

homemade breads , great effort to preserve the local recipe book and management of zero kilometer ingredients , like vegetables (chard with potatoes is the national accompaniment) , cheeses and goulash.

Note: another typical Montenegrin dish, especially in Sveti Stefan and surroundings, is the Pastrovsky Makaruli, a handmade pasta something is enough and very forceful what in The Piazza , inside the Aman Sveti Stefan, prepared with meat ragu. Delicious.

Wine cellar _(Njegoseva, 103; Cetinje) _

Perfect garden to rest from the walk after visit Serbian Orthodox monastery in which are the relics of the right hand of Saint John the Baptist, no less. **Cetiña shares with Pogdorica the status of the capital of Montenegro **, although in its case as the Ancient Royal Capital.

Mamula Island

Mamula Island

On this terrace you can try Montenegrin wines, such as Krstač and Vranac from Plantaže , which boasts of being the largest vineyard in Europe on a single estate. Accompany them with a pizza and be careful if you drive, they are powerful and curves back to ** Kotor **... endless.

mirista _(Luštica b.b, Mirišta) _

In Kotor it is easy and cheap rent boats or yachts with and without driver. The best plan is to go through the Bocas to its entrance and reach the Mirista's silver , already in the Adriatic, just off Mamula Island , sadly known because Mussolini turned it into a concentration camp during World War II and today controversial for the intention of turn it into a super luxury resort.

Another fact for freaks: a B-series horror movie was shot here, also called Mamula, about a killer mermaid.

Closer still to the restaurant, with views of crystal clear waters and a typical menu, there is another dream island to anchor, Otocic Gospa... but beware, in its tiny abbey, which looks like a fairy tale, lives an orthodox monk who does not like visitors very much.

SHOPPING

Antiques Stankovic _(Montenegro Maritime Museum, Kotor) _

The history of Kotor, its baroque legacy and the mixture of Catholic and Orthodox religions give meaning to a wide catalog of jewelry, Sarkoy kilims of unique patterns and a curious collection of military effects from the 18th and 19th centuries. Keep an eye on your furniture and objects Biedermeier, Jugendstil and Art Deco.

Antik Hobi Shop on the road around the Bay of Kotor.

Antik Hobi Shop, on the road that borders the Bay of Kotor.

Antik Hobi Kotor _(Prcanj, Kotor) _

Right on the highway, where it is not easy to stop due to its narrowness. But you will when you see the amount of communist era objects and junk of all kinds. If you search... you find.

AquaMaritime _(Palih boraca bb, Tivat) _

In 2002, a couple of Zagreb opened his first marine clothing store on the Croatian island of Brac. today they have more than 50 stores worldwide and their striped t-shirts are the perfect Adriatic souvenir.

Traditional Njeguši _(P1, Njegusi) _

The village where the Petrović dynasty was born is today a perfect example of traditional architecture situated to 22 kilometers from Kotor... but the road, called "serpentine", it zigzags along 26 hairpin curves. In Google Maps it is scary to see it, but the panorama deserves it. In this store you will find the typical Njeguški cheese and ham, facts here.

** Montenegrin Tourism **

Official guide of the country.

Ready to discover Montenegro

Ready to discover Montenegro?

***** _This report was published in **number 132 of Condé Nast Traveler Magazine (October)**. Subscribe to the printed edition (11 printed issues and a digital version for €24.75, by calling 902 53 55 57 or from our website). The October issue of Condé Nast Traveler is available in its digital version to enjoy on your preferred device. _

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