The definitive guide of our grandparents to eat well in Barcelona
It seems unbelievable what we Spaniards like to eat in general and even more so if we go recommended. Those same ones who talk about food before, during and after eating and those who plan the next gastronomic meeting just sitting at the table. Blessed meals and endless after-meals!
If you easily recognize yourself by googling “where to have breakfast / lunch / dinner in …”; or “the best Brunch in the city in…”; either " Top 10 restaurants in... ”, this guide will be your Bible. We have prepared **our grandparents' definitive guide to eating well in Barcelona** with some of the places with more years of history between stoves , best possible product and the same quality as the first day.
3,2, 1… Let's eat!
** BONANOVA RESTAURANT ** _(Carrer de Sant Gervasi de Cassoles, 103) _
Located in the upper part of Barcelona and inside the same century-old building that once housed the famous Casino of Sant Gervasi, Bonanova Restaurant is without a doubt number one in this guide.
this mythical eating house q which began its journey in 1965 from the hand of Adolfo Herrero Villanueva , continues to serve seasonal cuisine, with the same taste and quality as on the first day.
Today, 54 years after its opening, we can still continue to enjoy its famous Prat artichokes , its mini favetes (broad beans) from Sant Boi, its vegetable and cuttlefish rice, its black truffle, or its lamb shoulder (...) thanks to the second generation that works in the restaurant made up of their three children Adolf (room manager) , Carles (cook) and Cristina Herrero Salvador (accounting and administration) ; who never forget the motto that his father instilled in them: "We serve what he plays when he plays."
Average price per person: 65 euros.
Their mini Sant Boi favetes are religion
** THE SMOKE COVA ** _(Carrer Baluard, 56) _
Formerly it was one of the best kept secrets between locals in the neighborhood of La Barceloneta.
Today it is still located as it was on the first day –and without a sign to identify it– behind some brown doors on the street Bulwark number 56.
And it is that this tiny fisherman's tavern that opened its doors now more than 70 years continues to offer homemade cuisine based on fish and shellfish, native dishes and of course its well-known “bombas” accompanied by two sauces , guilty that every day there are endless queues of locals and tourists before opening the doors.
Fortunately "the cave" –an abbreviation used by many of its regular customers–, is still in charge of three generations of the same family dedicated to the kitchen: palmyra (founder), Josep Maria and Magi (children) and Guillem Sole (grandchild) ; just as it continues to keep intact as on the first day, both the menu and the marble tables to share and where still today they use it as a blackboard to calculate the account.
Open from 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Monday to Wednesday, also in the afternoon from 6:00 p.m. to 8:00 p.m. only on Thursdays and Fridays, and on Saturdays from 9:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m. Sunday closed. Average price per person: 20 euros.
More than 70 years keeping the secret in La Barceloneta
THE XARXA _(Via Augusta Street, 115) _
Completely refurbished, this small but mighty restaurant now led by Carlos Allue (his chef from him), pretends to be a tribute to the origins of the Varela Group and also with good service and a very good price.
Characterized by market products and suggestions of the day, the new philosophy of the restaurant La Xarxa is based on the quality product and mainly seasonal.
The beginnings of this restaurant date back to 1969 , when Manuel Varela, a native of the province of Orense, inaugurated with his wife Mayte Gago the La Xarxa Seafood Restaurant which, years later, moved to the current location of Casa Varela (another of the group's five restaurants).
Among the so-called "dishes to share" stand out the shrimp tacos with pico de gallo and chili mayonnaise , the ugly tortilla made at the moment, the oysters from the Ebro Delta , cockles, papas arrugás with mojo picón, sticky seafood rice, assorted seasonal tomatoes, Galician blonde sirloin with Café Paris butter... not forgetting the chocolate bread or the homemade cheesecake to top it off.
Sunday closed. Average price per person: 30/45 euros.
A neighborhood seafood restaurant with origins in Ourense
THE PINEDA _(Carrer del Pi, 16) _
Is old delicatessen offers from 1930 some of the best cheeses, sausages, preserves and wines of the country.
Luckily, the establishment breathes the same relaxed atmosphere and with the same decoration of all life. So much so, that many of its products exhibited in the premises are still accompanied by its price in pesetas.
Registered in the Gothic quarter, this mythical charcuterie recommends not failing to order the Cheeseboard -highlighting the cured cheese with rosemary or Rioja wine-, the mojama with almonds -a delicacy based on dehydrated tuna-, and of course the acorn-fed ham sandwich , tuna with peppers, Catalan white or egg sausage, or Vic's llonganisa.
Average price per person: 25 euros.
An old xarcutería that maintains all its essence
XAMPANYET _(Carrer de Montcada, 22) _
Located in the popular El Born neighborhood , this bar began its journey in 1929 under the name Ca l'Esteve until in 1972 it was renamed El Xampanyet –name by which it was popularly known in the neighbourhood, thanks to the typical sparkling wine that can only be consumed in this place–.
Today, ninety years after its opening, Xampanyet continues to offer many the best preserves, tapas, sausages, montaditos and traditional cuisine Catalan of the city
But apart from enjoying delicious food and a very, very lively atmosphere –where you always end up making friends, talking to the people at the next table and leaving much later than you had planned–; the best thing about this place is the service that attends you, always between jokes and with his best smile, thanks to the fact that the family that runs it has managed to preserve its spirit for three generations.
Once there, don't forget to try the anchovies with vinegar –star delicacy of the house–, marinated sardines –which, as happens with anchovies, you can order per unit–, the tortilla skewer, cod or chorizo omelette, sausage with mongetes (white beans), Iberian secret accompanied by padrón peppers, giant asparagus heads, spicy Payoyo cheese (...) and of course always well accompanied by the very simple and delicious Catalan invention Pa Amb Tomàquet (bread with tomato) .
By the way, every time you hear the bell it will be accompanied by a waiter yelling "Boooooteeee!", and that means someone has left a tip.
Average price per person: 20 euros.
The basic classic of El Born
CARBALLEIRA RESTAURANT _(Reina Cristina Street, 3) _
Located near the sea, next to the old gate of Port Vell and of the already disappeared port customs, Carballeira is still open to one of the most beautiful ports in Europe.
Born in 1944, this place was the business adventure of the Mr. Millán and his wife with an establishment dedicated to best Galician seafood . His first clients, some Galicians like him, were high-ranking officials, soldiers and smugglers of the time who came attracted by the exquisite seafood that arrived daily from Galicia.
From the beginning it was consolidated as a benchmark in the city and the first quality Galician restaurant in Barcelona.
Today, despite having changed hands, the pillars of its success remain intact: top quality product, the best seafood and fresh fish brought daily from Galicia , and excellence in service, ensured by attentive waiters with years of experience in the house.
And, although Mr. Millán is no longer waiting to greet his regular clients, the portrait of him hanging on the wall , on his table, continues to welcome them.
Because first of all, Carballeira maintains its essence , as befits such an emblematic and traditional site. All the seafood and fish is fresh and simply delicious, but if this place is known for something, it is for its arroz a banda.
Average price per person: 50 euros.
LEOPOLD HOUSE
House of meals founded more than eighty years ago in the heart of Barcelona, in the central Raval neighborhood.
In 2017, a new stage began with the help of the chefs Oscar Manresa and Romain Fornell , and although the current gastronomic proposal represents a somewhat more modern version of Catalan cuisine, Casa Leopoldo continues to maintain some of the iconic dishes that are part of the culinary heritage of the city.
Don't stop trying the shrimp and Iberian ham omelette with American sauce , the “Leopoldo” oxtail with Priorat wine, the paella “from the gentleman of Casa Leopoldo” or the whole grilled turbot with Béarnaise or Bilbao style.
Average price per person: 40 euros.
BOTAFUMEIRO _(Carrer Gran de Gràcia, 81) _
According to Moncho Neira , Chef and owner of this emblematic seafood restaurant: “When the raw material is unquestionably the best on the market , the only thing a cook must do is respect the product, give the right point of fire and the right dressing to awaken all its flavor and aroma on the plate”.
And it is that Botafumeiro has been delighting its customers since 1975 with fish, shellfish and Galician cuisine in a classic and elegant room with a wooden balustrade and a maritime air since 1975; and ensure that each of the pieces of the “Botafumeiro Seafood Selection” has been chosen at the foot of the fish market in the most popular auctions on the Galician and Catalan coasts.
dare with the Botafumeiro style lobster , the Grilled prawns from Palamós , the seafood croquettes, rice dishes, seafood dishes and casseroles.
Average price per person: 75 euros.
Be sure to try their Botafumeiro-style lobster
L'OLIVE _(Carrer de Balmes, 47) _
They say the Catalan and Mediterranean cuisine They have no limits and neither does L'Olivé. Recently renovated and open every day of the year since 1984, this legendary restaurant has become a great classic of Barcelona , as well as the other restaurants of the same group: El Barceloneta, Paco Meralgo, Bar Cañete and Barcelona Milano.
Located in the well-known Quadrat d'or (golden square: main artery of the new Eixample that was born from 1860, when the walls that drowned the old Barcelona were demolished) ; its gastronomic proposal is transparent, clean, honest and with the right handling.
You know, less is more, but also here all the dishes and preparations are their own, desserts included. If what you are looking for is to meet again with classic and traditional recipes that remind us of those we ate at our grandparents' house, this is your place.
Yes, always treated with this touch of modernity that make them more elegant, light and sophisticated. Don't forget to try the Maresme tear peas , the boneless oxtail with potato Parmentier, or the delicious house rice dishes.
Average price per person: 55 euros.
L'Olivé black rice
PINOTXO BAR _(Carrer de la Rambla, 89) _
It was impossible that this mythical tavern was not present in this guide . His chef, Joan Bayén, He is a marathon runner in his eighties, king of bow ties and fancy vests.
Juanito to his friends, or Pinotxo as everyone knows him –because that was the name of his dog in honor of the 1940 Disney movie–, he has been working from Monday to Saturday from 6:30 a.m. to 4:00 p.m. behind its tiny bar inside the well-known Boqueria Market.
And it is that there are few Barcelonans and tourists who visit the market, who do not know or do not get to know this nice, talkative and very kind character -awarded with the prestigious prize City of Barcelona –, But above all to the wonders that only he and his team – now led by Jordi Asin Bayen – they will offer you.
His culinary proposal offers Catalan cuisine, always with seasonal and market products. Some of his specialties are hood (braised veal head and leg) Grandma Catalina's recipe , baby squid with beans from Santa Pau, croquettes, sautéed chickpeas with black pudding from Burgos, or fresh fish among many other delicacies.
As the place is reduced to a single bar for about ten or twelve people at a time, it is most likely you have to do some queuing.
But since it is very worthwhile, take note: position yourself after the last of each row that is created behind the one who is already sitting and eating at the bar, and be patient. The best is yet to come.
Average price per person: 20/25 euros (without wine).
You will have to queue... but the wait will be worth it