The residents of Chiclana lose count of how many decades it had been there, on the pig hill , East old Civil Guard barracks completely abandoned. The walls were half in ruins, some windows had had to be boarded up and the rubble was piled up under the few clues that left latent what his past had been: "All for the homeland" , still reads a sign on the modern terrace of the newly opened The Sea Barracks , from which several friends enjoy the sunset today. “Everything for the beach” , defend those who have decided to grant a new life to the place.
Chiclana from this old Civil Guard barracks
A second chance offered by Azotea Grupo , the Madrid-based company behind this wonderful project —and other successes such as the Azotea del Círculo, at the Círculo de Bellas Artes; NuBel, in the courtyard of the Reina Sofía Museum, or Picalagartos, on the roof of the NH Collection Gran Vía Hotel—, thanks to the magic of architecture studio More-co by Paula Rosales , of the delicate work of the interior designer Alejandra Pombo , and the careful touch of ** Rent a Garden ** when it comes to landscaping.
The Sea Barracks opened its doors on June 5 after intense restoration work that has known how to distribute its 2 thousand square meters in a masterful way. In addition to his stylish terrace there is also room for a restaurant indoor, a fancy patio in which to enjoy daily DJs, concerts, and even —why not— workshops of artisans, and a room that will be dedicated to cultural exhibitions performed by local artists. In its highest part is the ** Azoteza viewpoint **, another plus: an excellent corner that delights ornithology lovers. The reason? The Limes-Platalea, one of the most peculiar native birds , is often seen here during its intercontinental migration.
Today, in this little corner at one end of La Barrosa beach , the unbeatable views of the sea and an old watchtower that witnessed great historical milestones — the mythical battle of Chiclana during the War of Independence neither more nor less—are set to chill out music while the smell of embers emanates from their wood-fired oven, making it clear that gastronomy is taken very seriously here.
THE FLAVORS OF THE BARRACKS
It is certainly your culinary offer one of the forts of El Cuartel del Mar. In the hearth of this brand new project is Manuel Berganza , executive chef of Azotea Grupo and in charge of shaping and flavoring the delicacies reflected in his menu. A lot of pleasure to sea and a lot of southern orchard : the product of the area, recognizes Manu, is 10.
At only 34 years old, this young chef has a very busy career behind him. A life that has taken him from his native Gijón to the Leioa Hospitality School in Bilbao to the kitchens of Sergi Arola or Quique Dacosta , and even to New York: there he launched his first personal project, Barrage 141 , a restaurant that he would end up achieving, in just two years, a michelin star . After passing through Singapore, where he was in command of club tapas , a Spanish tapas concept with an international outlook, Azotea Grupo crossed his path and brought him back to Spain. Since then, he has been happy to pour that culinary knowledge acquired halfway around the world into each new company project.
A terrace adapted to the new normality
As a result, in the kitchen of this barracks, proposals are prepared that are as appetizing as their grilled artichokes with Payoyo cheese or its grilled coquinas with a touch of sherry. When it comes to talking about tuna, the bet is very strong: the almadraba red tuna loin tartar marinated in anchovy garum —from the barbatian Gadira, it couldn't be any other way—it's like from another world; although their parpatana meatballs in tomato they are not far behind.
Rice dishes, fideuás, octopus, red mullet or an exquisite mackerel glazed with piriñaca are also present. When it comes to meat, there is no doubt: the black cow You have an important space in your kitchen. Manu has also wanted to leave room for improvisation. Being in the south, it is clear that the fresh product of the day must have its space, so the ones off the menu are a safe bet and a perfect excuse to light the peculiar barbecue that governs the patio of the barracks.
Anything else to add? Of course: the complete menu of wines which also has, of course, land names , including rich broths made in the town of Chiclana itself.
BEFORE OR AFTER: THE PERFECT COCKTAIL EXISTS
And so much that it exists. You only have to listen to the passion with which the great Luca Anastasio He talks about each one of the ingredients that he uses in the elaboration of his cocktails to want to try them all. And when we say everyone, we mean it very seriously.
And given this, the solution is clear: the expert in cocktails from Amalfitan will only need a couple of questions to know which of his proposals is the perfect one for each client. So maybe what he recommends is to try some exotic recipe fruit of his ingenuity, or with classics like the Cosmopolitan, the Mama Tai or the Deluxe Mojito . Proposals of a lifetime, yes, but versioned in a fresher and more complex way , choosing long drinks that invite you to contemplate sunsets and animated chats between friends.
Luca, who studied hotel management in Switzerland and was also trained in London, has 18 years of experience in which his main task has always been the same: to surprise those who try them with his cocktails. What if, we can say emphatically that he has achieved it.
DESIGN AND DECORATION: THE KEYS TO THE PROJECT
Everything is in harmony in El Cuartel del Mar, like a visual poem of shapes, colors and textures that give a single meaning to everything. It is noted that both Paula Rosales and Alejandra Pombo and Rent a Garden they worked inspired by the environment in their designs: earthy colors, with beiges and browns In all their scales, they envelop both the building itself, where the sobriety of the old construction contrasts with the marvelous spiral staircase that presides over the patio —a Rosales trademark addition—, as well as the decorative elements of the interior.
The landscape is dotted with native plants that help to give a certain uniformity to the whole, while inside, what prevails, is the beauty and calm . It is impossible not to notice their lamps: with rounded shapes reminiscent of those stones from the sea that have been shaped by erosion for years and years, they are simply the best. The design of the chairs, the wicker on the outside, and even the shapes chosen for the crockery, are the house's trademark.
It is each one of these small-big details that have been making the difference, turning, after all, an old building in ruins into a most special place in this little corner of the Barrosa beach, in front of the extensive sands of the coast and the immense Atlantic. The ideal place to celebrate life while toasting with the words that have already become, inevitably, the motto of the project: **“Everything for the beach”. And there is no doubt that it is so. **
