Can you imagine being on horseback on a paradisiacal beach? Stop dreaming, welcome to Sumba.
gallop at sunset along the shore of the wild Nihiwatu beach . enter in the rainforest on horseback . Surf some of the best waves in the world, like the dream God's Left . Immerse yourself in an ancient culture or practice yoga from a natural viewpoint of the Indian Ocean. **Just an hour from Bali, Sumba was waiting for us , an unexpected journey back in time on one of Indonesia's lesser-known islands... for now. This is where ** Nihi Sumba is located, a regular on lists of the best resorts on the planet , as well as a dream place for any **adventure lover, especially surfing and horse riding **.
Adventure, surfing and horse riding in a paradise called Nihi Sumba.
We take off from Madrid airport, leaving behind the autumn weather of Spain to **land, hours later, in warm Bali**. We spent our first night there before taking the last short flight to Tambolaka, a city hardly highlighted in the guides , something that makes any trip even more exciting, since it implies being able to write from your own experience on a blank page, about the unknown.
However, it may be one of the corners of Indonesia where it is more difficult to cross paths with people who are not native beyond the few resorts on the island. It will be for this reason that we managed to quickly connect with **the calm and peaceful energy of the inhabitants of the island**, leaving behind the western rhythm.
In Tambolaka a hotel car was waiting for us to take us to Nihi. Its roof and rear door were **prepared to load surfboards**, since a large part of its clients are amateurs (even professionals) who come here in search of the best waves . They know where they come from: their beaches are at the top of any expert, since only, maximum 10 people stay in the water at the same time to surf . Something like the St. Moritz of the sea.
During an hour's journey we crossed various towns and unpaved roads , we even had to stop on one occasion because a herd of buffalo blocked our way. A priori, that arid landscape did not fit us with what we had seen or read about the island of Sumba.
The best scenery comes from the horses at Sandalwood Stable.
Suddenly, however, just over a hill and, as if it were an oasis mirage, we visualize the dream spectacle: jungle, crystal clear waters and, in the distance, horses galloping on the beach . Beyond any expectation, before our eyes we had **the paradise of Nihi Sumba**.
Six people from the team were waiting for us at the reception with the kindness that characterizes the locals , among them Baba Rober, who would be in charge of guiding us to discover all the corners of the establishment and proposing the activities that best suited our interests.
Inspired by traditional Indonesian architecture and perfectly integrated into the surrounding environment, the 27 villas, built with thatched roofs, large windows and private gardens, they also have infinity pool that offers fabulous views of the Indian Ocean in the middle of the tropical forest.
Here the luxury consists of not having a television to immerse yourself in a sensory experience of harmony with nature. The property extends over 567 hectares, of which only 65 are built , which guarantees a private experience, as well as a great respect for the environment to avoid any type of overcrowding or overexploitation of the area.
Surrounded by wood and earth tones, the Nihi Sumba villas are the best option for a trip to disconnect.
We went out to tour the farm. Its magic surrounds you and makes you understand why some of its guests return every year and travel halfway around the world to get here and unwind in your weeks off. In fact, its growing popularity is due to the fact that surnames like Kennedy, Hermès and Beckham , among many others, have already gone through your reservation book.
After a night of well-deserved rest, at six in the morning he wakes up in Nihi with the unmistakable sounds of the jungle and the sea accompanied by the neighing of the horses , who wait patiently in the stables for their daily walk along the beach. Perhaps our most longed-for moment of the trip. Of course, before galloping nothing better than the delicious breakfast served at Ombak , one of the three restaurants in the resort next to Nio Beach Club and Kaboku , located on the beach.
Despite its remote location, the quality of the kitchen is impressive and the explosion of authentic flavor comes with each bite thanks to the fact that fruits and vegetables come from our own organic gardens and farmers from neighboring towns, in addition to offering fresh local fish . So much so that while you contemplate the beach you see the fishermen arrive with the proposals of the day.
The range of options to spend your time once the day starts is immense, from all kinds of activities water **(surfing, kitesurfing, fishing, snorkeling, private boat trips...) **, to land **(trekking, mountain biking, hiking to waterfalls) **, equestrian and cultural , without forgetting those dedicated to personal well-being, such as yoga or spa treatments.
The idyll can only be preceded by a delicious breakfast that will surely make you take out your camera.
But without any doubt, one of the star plans to experience authentic Sumba consists of descend the Wanukaka river in stand up paddle , going next to the buffalo that bathe in its waters and receiving in many cases the visit of local people. For the more adventurous there is also the possibility of hiring an authentic Robinson Crusoe experience and **spend a day on a desert island**.
Although the main reason for this trip was horseback riding, we did not want to miss the opportunity to enjoy a yoga class from the impressive platform on top of the cliff and, of course, of surf the mythical waves of Nihiwatu beach . For those who want to combine surfing and relaxation, there is also the possibility of traveling by boat, jeep or horse to Coconut Cove , a private club where you can receive surf lessons taught by instructors of world prestige.
Let's go, now yes, to the horses . The blocks, Sandalwood Stable , surprise by its unique essence, the riding school with the hurdle roof and all located on the beach , which instantly immerses you in the equestrian atmosphere of the island. Inside, a team of local sport horses waiting ready to take you to discover the charms of the place , with programs for children and also for those who have no prior knowledge of riding.
From here everything is possible from swimming in the crystal clear waters on the back of your horse to galloping at sunset through Nihiwatu or get lost in the jungle with a stop at the villages surrounding the hotel, such as Watukarere , with more than five hundred years old and where we could see the way of life of a society that still maintains the customs of their ancestors.
Not only beaches live Sumba. Villages like Watukarere introduce you to fairytale jungles.
Another of the most recommended horse routes is the one that takes you to the Spa Safari, where dreamlike landscapes such as rice fields or Lapopu, a ninety-meter-high waterfall, are crossed perfect to enjoy a bath in the middle of nature.
Preserving local culture and improving living conditions of the locals is the fundamental pillar of Nihi Sumba, whose creation was a huge boost for the island both for the generation of jobs (his team is mostly made up of natives), and for his absolute commitment to reducing poverty.
Thus was born the Sumba Foundation , active since 2001 and responsible for different social and health projects that have allowed significantly reduce the problems of malnutrition, vaccination, drinking water and schools, covering an area of about four hundred villages where more than 30,000 people live. The experience of knowing the work of the Foundation is the part of the trip that most touches the hearts of all those who visit it, since almost half of the hotel staff has been trained in its schools.
Thatched roofs, large windows, private gardens... Nihi Sumba is a traveler's dream!
It is undeniable that horses are the soul of Sumba , an island that has a long equestrian tradition behind it with its characteristic equines small size , whose origin dates back to the breeding of mongolian and arabian ponies for trading sandalwood and spices.
Despite his height they are very agile and energetic , which is revealed in the most emblematic of its equestrian traditions: the Pasola, an ancient ritual in which different clans of horsemen throw handmade wooden harpoons at each other wearing colorful costumes Unique in the world. Such an amazing custom it really is a fertility ritual that takes place before the harvest and the exact date of its celebration fluctuates between february and march , dictated by the local priests.
Although many magical experiences remain in the pipeline, the best summary is that this island captivates the heart of everyone who visits it and Nihi Sumba sublimates this paradise for any discerning traveler looking for rediscover yourself and connect with the wildest nature.
Nihi Sumba is the definition of an unforgettable experience.
***** _This report was published in **number 134 of Condé Nast Traveler Magazine (December)**. Subscribe to the printed edition (11 printed issues and a digital version for €24.75, by calling 902 53 55 57 or from our website). The December issue of Condé Nast Traveler is available in its digital version to enjoy on your preferred device. _