Nice, fun and dynamic
1. THE OLD CITY
Be careful and don't get disoriented. yes you are in France , but walking through old Nice, you will have to remember it all the time since, at times, you will be invaded by the feeling that, somehow, you have slipped through some alley in Trastevere and you walk around its alleys, baroque churches, piazzetas, colorful facades and terraces, which are much more nocturnal here than their other French neighbors . In addition to monuments such as the Palais Lacaris (XVIII century), Cathedral and the archaeological crypt , under the Garibaldi Square , with remains of a fortification from the 14th century; in the pedestrian part of the Saleya, perhaps most picturesque of the entire historic center , you will find several markets: the one with flowers and the one with vegetables (every day except Monday) and the market of fleas (on Monday) .
A walk through the Old City, the Trastevere of Nice
two. PROMENADE DES ANGLAIS
In the mid-18th century, wealthy Englishmen arrived in Nice, hence the name of this vast promenade that borders the Bay of Angels and the main witness of what must have been the Côte d'Azur in the 1920s . Inevitably, because of its Belle époque fragrance, and even because of its orography, the postcard will bring to mind the La Concha Bay . Of course, its beach is not as good as San Sebastián, and instead of sand, if we want to lay down the towel, we'll do it on boulders , which, on the other hand, does not seem too much of an impediment for restaurants and bars to have tables and sun loungers literally on the edge of the sea (beware even in December) .
By its activity, however, it is more reminiscent of a Brazilian . Runners, skaters or cyclists (in addition to bathers), get all the juice out of this boulevard and its sea. If you dare, rent a bike with velo bleu, from 1 euro/day and with bases in 120 points in the city and 32 km of bike lanes. Travel its 7 kilometers. Here many of the great hotels are mixed, the imposing art deco casino , villas that produce the worst of envy and houses of little taste with seedy brasseries. Almost reaching the castle hill (where you have to go up in an elevator to get the best panoramic views, which mix city, mountain and manual Mediterranean), the large blocks become beautiful little houses of a couple of heights. Make a stop at Marine Gallery , an exhibition space for young creators to see what continues to inspire artists in this city, where he lived, among others, Henri Matisse in 1916.
The Promenade des Anglais
3. HOTEL LE NEGRESCO
It is "the" hotel in town. Not only because of its location (on the Promenade des Anglais, with a full view of the sea), but because its history is closely linked to that of the golden age of tourism in Nice. outside, its dome says it all . Pink, gimmicky, bulbous like a meringue and crowned with neon letters that can be seen from almost the entire walkway. Inside are the marbles, spiders with thousands of legs, sculptures, works of art and paintings with portraits of wigged princes in period costumes who rule the common spaces.
The rooms follow the same line: classic with solid wood furniture, damask fabric walls and soft and very comfortable beds (although perhaps not the right size for Nordic visitors). For nothing in the world should you miss three corners: the Brasserie La Rotonde , where breakfast is served, which is shaped like an 18th-century circus carousel between rococo and kitsch , with merry-go-round horses and even an automaton; the bathrooms on the lobby level , also with a festival aesthetic; nor la la central stained glass vault , which in this case will make you return to the Madrid Palace. Also take a "trip" in its red velvet and wood elevator, with chandelier and armchair included. Rather than climb two floors, it will be a trip back in time.
A hotel with history
Four. TWO UNIQUE BOUTIQUES
Rontani stationery is one of the oldest shops in town . You will find all kinds of maps, plans, guides to Nice and Provence as well as material for artists: oil paintings, pastels, gouache... It boasts of being one of the suppliers of the Queen of England and proudly wears her shield on its evocative and nostalgic façade. Our other recommendation, just down the road, is **Pour vos beaux yeux**, probably the most special optician you've ever been to . In the premises of what was an old restored shirt shop, it specializes in New old stock, that is, old but never used glasses. You will find pieces from 1860 exhibited for decades, ray ban of collection, Persil , models that have been made mythical in the cinema and authentic jewels that can reach 6,000 Euros.
A very special optics
5. TWO DISHES THAT ARE NOT WHAT THEY SEEM
You'll think it's a crêpe , but it is not, it is the socca , which has the same round shape, but is baked (not grilled) with chickpea flour, olive oil and water, and seasoned with salt and pepper. It is taken throughout the Blue Coast , and has variants in South America . You will find it in restaurants or on market stalls. On the other hand when you read pissaladiere pizza You will think that it is a pizza that you are used to, and the fact is that it is more similar to our cocas than to the italian one , since it replaces the tomato with a layer of candied onions and anchovy or sardine paste. Both are two of the most typical of Provence , with a clear Mediterranean touch and with that Franco-Italian influence, which is present in everything here.
Socca is the culinary specialty of Nice
6. A COFFEE
Les Causeries de Bandine It is an unassuming cafe, but very nice and cozy in the old nice . Serving homemade cakes and they have a huge tea menu , with exhibition space. Their snack and breakfast "formulas" are especially recommended. Yes, definitely yes, it is the place to stop along the way.
An unassuming cafe
7. A DAY AT THE BEACH... AND MOUNTAIN
So that there are no fights or, simply, so that you do not have to decide, in Nice you can organize a ski day in the morning and an afternoon walk on the beach . The Isola 2,000 station already on the border with Italy.
On the border with Italy, perfect snowy getaway
8. A MUSEUM
The Matisse . Although as we have said, there are more than 20 museums in the city, if there is only time to visit one, it must be the Matisse Museum. It exhibits many of his works, paintings, sculptures, gouaches and designs, as well as personal objects that evoke the life of the artist in this area . Also next year 60 years have passed since the death of the painter , with which different activities and special programming will take place.
The Matisse Museum houses priceless iconic works
9. AN EXCURSION TO EZE
It's a must in Provence : visit one of the "villes" perches ", Or what is the same, a hung town . We like Eze. Because it is close (and well connected by bus) and because it is very quiet. And also because it is said that here Nietzsche ended "Thus Spake Zarathustra." It doesn't have too much secret : medieval framework, artisan workshops, soap shops, the ruins of the medieval fortress and a little baroque church. also a nice Revere garden and the Great Cornice overlooking the sea.
The glamor of the French Riviera
10. A GOURMET DINNER
If one night you want to give yourself the whim, to live that other part of being in the Blue Coast , we recommend a dinner with stars. Specifically, those of michelin . We like the gastronomic restaurant of Le Negresco , in which Jean-Denis Rieuland , with its two Michelin stars, modernize the Provencal kitchen . Another option is to take a trip to Chin (a medieval town about half an hour away) for dinner at Mirazur . In his "house" the chef Mauro Colagreco (the only Argentine with two Michelin stars) makes a signature cuisine very imaginative combining the products of the land and its heritage Italian-Argentinian cuisine . with the stamp of Relais and Chateaus
The gourmet dinner with which to end a perfect day in Nice