Root chiclana: waste of Cadiz essence
"I am from the place for the four coasts and I can proudly say that I have not slept in La Banda not a single day of my life," he tells us, as well as those who do not want the thing, Manuel Manzano, the President of the Cooperative Union of Viticulturists Chiclaneros , within two minutes of meeting.
At first, it will probably happen to you like us: you don't understand a single word. No problem that can't be solved with a couple of brief explanatory sentences—the same ones that expose us, for the record.
turns out Chiclana of the border , this very Cadiz town in the middle of Costa de la Luz full of attractions, it has been divided into two parts separated by the Iro river: The band It is located in the most peripheral area and in the past it was surrounded by fields, today largely transformed into housing estates. The place , however, is the historic Chiclana: the one in the center of town, the one that lives to the sound of the tolling of its church bells and in which life takes place, directly, in its narrow streets. The rivalry between each other, as you can imagine, is historical (although from affection, of course): what better excuse to spice up everyday life?
The point is that this express class of chiclan essence It is given to us while we enter the domains of the cooperative, located —obviously— in the heart of The place . We came to it willing to understand that little piece of history that made wine, for many years, one of the economic pillars of this town that today is better known, however, for the luxurious hotels in Novo Sancti Petri , its infarct beaches and its golf courses.
Root chiclana: waste of Cadiz essence
We, who always scratch a little more in search of those other benefits that really feed the heart of each destination, listen to the explanations that reveal to us that part of the wines that are produced there are bought from their 180 members for the Jerez wineries , since Chiclana also belongs to the Marco de Jerez . Meanwhile, we tour the cooperative's facilities where the grape grinding machines, presses and fermentation tanks are already preparing for the imminent harvest. In September, the fuss begins.
THE MEMORY OF TIMES PAST
The point is that there was a day when in Chiclana there were more than 90 wineries . tell us Chano Moreno, from Bodega Manuel Aragón , another of the only four that resist today.
We walk among century-old boots and strongly inhale that smell that only southern wines emanate . We advance through the albero under cover of stories that our cicerone strives to tell us: the battles about what happens to this elixir are endless. And when we say war stories, we do so in the most literal sense: the historic confrontation that took place off the coast of Chiclana in 1811 between the French on one side, and the English, Spanish and Portuguese on the other , now finds his most beautiful tribute in the white wine that the winery has just baptized with his name. The Battle of the Muddy.
Chano insists that we enjoy these exquisite wines that taste so like Cadiz, and while he tells us about the commitment of this ancient family winery founded in 1815 to sustainable agriculture —they use the pomace of the wine to fertilize the vines or rosebushes as of informers to combat various plagues-, comes one of his finest, the fine barn . as only someone who has been doing it for a lifetime knows. This is pure glory!
The equestrian club of Chiclana
Between sips —and the occasional wedge of cheese, of course—, we glimpse, at the bottom of the vineyards and among leafy pine forests, how a group of friends enjoys an original horseback ride. Can there be a more authentic scenario than this? They immediately tell us that the excursions are organized by the Royal Center Horse Riding , a equestrian club chiclanero with attractive activities to get to know Chiclana from a different point of view. What, does he take a walk?
BETWEEN ESTORES AND SALINAS: THE OTHER LIFE OF CHICLANA
That Chiclana that pulls roots and strives to hold on tooth and nail to the traditions of a lifetime reveals itself in its own way. You just have to know how to search.
In those we walk —looking for its most authentic side— when we approach the Salt flats of Chiclana , the only craft that exists in the town and where you can learn everything about this exciting world in its interpretation center, as well as receive a treatment in its natural spa — the high amounts of minerals are very beneficial for the skin — or enjoy a dish based on estuary fish in your restaurant.
Salt flats of Chiclana at sunset
Rocío, our guide through a unique landscape full of whitish pools , tells us that sea water enters through Sancti Petri and reach, through its marshes , the place where we meet. Some gates let them first access the estuary, an extensive lagoon into which fish also enter with the current: sea bass, sole, smooth and golden are some of the species that finish growing in it . Thanks to this, there is another deep-rooted Chiclanera tradition that remains alive: estuary fishing.
And what does it consist of? Well, it is a technique that is carried out at the end of each year, when the fish have reached the right size, for which the fishermen enter their waters equipped with box nets to carry out the defishing. In a completely traditional way, they corner and collect the catch. The show is so attractive that many people come to see it. Trying this type of delicacies, by the way, is as simple as ordering it at your restaurant.
Fish aside, and continuing with the salt flats —which we turned off—, it turns out that the waters that reach them do so with about 37 grams of salt per liter . When they finish their journey from the estuaries and through the calls wide laps of retention and narrow laps of parakeet , reach the crystallizers, where the water continues to evaporate until it reaches a concentration of between 250 and 300 grams of salt. The resulting treasure is collected manually. Whether it is virgin salt, fleur de sel or flakes, it is a natural miracle!
LET'S TALK ABOUT EATING
The time has come to do what we love so much: get to know a land for its flavors. and being in Chiclana, which is Cádiz pure and simple , can only mean one thing: nothing can go wrong here.
To give a good account of it we go to Seafood Castile , a bar-cocedero where Jesús, who already started working in the hotel industry at the age of 16 and has been running several businesses related to seafood for four years, awaits us to delight us with some of the benefits of the menu. On the table, two of his star recipes: his Carabinero Campero —chopped semi-raw shrimp with quail egg - and the Grilled cuttlefish eggs on regañá with seaweed mayonnaise and fried seaweed . Speechless.
Cooker Castilla Seafood Bar
You don't have to go very far to reach another unquestionable gastronomic temple. In this case, dedicated to bread: the creampie It's been a long time since it became one more Chiclana claim and he knows that very well Daniel Ramos , the absolute genius of sourdough. Upon arriving at his workshop, we caught him cutting pork rinds to make one of his most acclaimed breads: chicarrones from Chiclana , Sure.
And that is specifically his secret: not only the quality of his bread, made with the best product and to which he dedicates all the time and patience they deserve; also his bet, which is still risky, to innovate with unimaginable recipes and ingredients. Bread with red tuna from Gadira, with cuttlefish in its ink or with tomatoes from Conil; scolding of shrimp omelettes or algae hamburger bun . For something has become the real bread chef ! So much so, that together with his wife, Mari Ángeles, he works all hours of the day and more to provide coverage not only to his clientele, but also to a large part of the renowned restaurants —Michelin stars included— in the province. of Cadiz.
But the gastronomic offer of Chiclana is immense: almost as much as its territory. Because, where we see it, More than 80,000 people live in it, spread over its more than 200 square kilometers..
The 'bread chef' at work
To explore its most coastal version we go to Sancti Petri, where the remains of a old fishing village that one day was dedicated to the almadraba . There we decided to look at the Bongo Beach Bar , where Zaida, busy behind the bar, does not erase her smile while she affirms without hesitation that she is lucky to work with the best views in all of Chiclana . Which? The ones that give Castle of Sancti Petri, built in the 17th century on a beautiful island at the mouth of the Sancti Petri channel and surrounded by the most turquoise waters that we can imagine. To taste: a grilled bluefin tuna that almost makes us cry with happiness . To visit the castle: as simple as hiring an excursion with Zaida's own sailing school.
Just two steps away The Lighthouse Keeper's House and with —more— incredible views of the marshes, she is the chef Meme Rodriguez , from Malaga although from Chiclana by adoption, who moves between pans and stoves to give a most original touch to the product of the area. Already the situation of the restaurant promises us a unique experience: in this precise place Formerly lived the lighthouse keeper who took care of the castle lighthouse, which he arrived every day by boat . The only case in Spain, Meme tells us, in which the lighthouse keeper and the lighthouse were in different places.
We cheer up with a Chiclana oyster with mojito granita and lime air . It also has a red tuna tasting menu : from the starter to the dessert, absolutely everything is made with different parts of the bluefin tuna from Barbateña Gadira. The passion and enthusiasm that Meme puts into the explanations of each of the dishes makes the experience absolutely unforgettable.
The best views of Chiclana?
At sunset, what the body asks for is a walk on the beach, and the the muddy It has kilometers and kilometers to delight us in it: eight, neither more nor less. The best? From it the sunsets are tremendous. We were so delighted with the area that, to sleep, and continuing with the search for that most genuine side of Chiclana, we stayed in Sancti Petri . There, in the small family hotel Sancti Petri Marsh and with great views of this natural symbol, we find the tranquility we are looking for.
And also the final touch to this article. There couldn't be a better one.