The torrezno revolution, that's what this divine creation is called.
About a year ago the Cantabrian cook Joseph Guijarro, famous for its one Michelin star restaurant in Santander, Casa Lita, They gave him a challenge: “Bringing Cantabrian cuisine to a neighborhood like Las Letras (in Madrid)”. From the sea to the interior.
The challenge was posed by the CoolRooms Atocha hotel, a new luxury accommodation in the heart of the city, an old building from 1852 now restored with 35 rooms. They wanted Guijarro to transfer their pinchos concept to the hotel bar at street level, which they have called ** El 34, ** after the number it occupies on the populous Atocha street.
It's a pincho bar, so the bar and high tables win.
"The skewers is a formula that allows you to taste elaborate dishes in a couple of bites," says Guijarro. When they moved to Madrid, they decided that they would maintain the success of that formula: "We kept the quality raw material, the recognized and recognizable quality product, but we add local raw material from the Madrid region and nods to Madrid gastronomy”.
In this sense, in the letter we see from anchovies from Santoña, crab toast or a portion called Sabores del Esla (esla beef cured meat with toast and tomato tartare) some Chulapas of squid, which are their version of the infallible fried squid from Madrid.
Blood sausage skewer with tomato vinaigrette.
“We look for quality local raw material for many of our proposals. We play with a format of haute cuisine in miniature, with the adventure of creating and tasting pinchos with nuances and traditional influence”, continues the chef who has given very Castilian names to some classic recipes, such as Las castellanas, his beef meatballs. "We maintain the essence and spirit of the north and we put a bit of that traditional bravado, enjoying a street, a neighborhood and a city like Madrid where everyone has their corner”.
And El 34 is just that, a corner for everyone. With entrance from the hotel and entrance from the street. Is thinking for international customer who will also stay in the building and for the neighbor of Las Letras in the mood for a restful bite.
Potato omelette with Iberian shoulder and Guernica pepper.
“Pinchos and tapas have become part of the Spain brand”, says Joseba and that is how the Royal Academy of Gastronomy defined it when it presented the lid to UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage. “The international public, that's how they understand it and that's how they look for it and taste it. Madrid has become a world gastronomic benchmark, It demands more carefree, casual and fresh concepts for people from Madrid and also for the international public”.
As in the pinchos bars in the north of Spain, the El 34 bar exhibits these micro-snacks created by Guijarro, cold and hot options. But also, there are rations, like those Castilian meatballs. Y out of letter the ones you should ask about: like the oxtail ravioli. And, of course, desserts, like The creamy of the pasiego, the Cantabrian version of the cheesecake.
Among the stars of hot pinchos, Joseba Guijarro has not hesitated to point out a star: “The torrezno revolution”. This is how he has called his “pressed jowl sandwich cooked at low temperature with a reduction of red must and dried apricots”.
Crab with pink sauce and shrimp: an infallible classic.
WHY GO?
For the salad, the meatballs, the oxtail ravioli and, of course, that torrezno star... now that we live in the era of torrezno .
ADDITIONAL FEATURES
Joseba Guijarro has also been in charge of the menu of the restaurant on the hotel terrace: "Recipes for dishes that reveal the most authentic flavors of Madrid," he says. "So that the rite of 'good food' continues to be present at our table." Recipes from other provinces that Madrid knew how to make its own, artisan elaboration, quality local product and market suggestions.
Pinchos and wines: there is no greater happiness.
Address: C/ de Atocha, 34 See map
Telephone: 91 088 77 87
Schedule: From Monday to Friday from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 12 p.m.
Half price: Each skewer: €2.95