Kirkenes, a tiny corner of the world that hides many surprises
To get to Kirkens, a small town of just 3,500 inhabitants on the border of northeastern Norway, you have to do it conscientiously.
No one ends up here by chance, by a "as we are" or without intending to. Because like it or not, Kirkenes is where the world ends. At least, the Norwegian world.
Only 15 kilometers further is that thin line that separates two completely different territories. Only at that small distance, is Russia.
But this does not mean that there are not multiple ways to get to Kirkenes. One of them is by car, advancing along the E6, the infinite road of the Arctic that unites the north with the south, and that only the most adventurous explorers will have dared to finish.
Kirkenes, the end of the world –Norwegian–
You can also reach the destination By plane: Kirkenes airport is one of the most important in the region and connects the city with the capital daily, as well as with other national destinations.
And lastly, Kirkenes can be reached as yours truly did: by sea. And it is that this tiny town is the northernmost port of call for Hurtigruten ships, that carry out a complete itinerary along the entire Norwegian coast.
Be that as it may, once in this mysterious place, all that remains is to try to discover what Kirkenes has to offer the traveler.
And it turns out that, as much as it may seem otherwise, the possibilities in this tiny corner of the world are vast.
Kirkenes, the most remote Norway awaits you!
But let's go by parts. The main thing is to stay. And where to do it?
The most daring may be encouraged with the funniest option: the Snowhotel Kirkenes , a hotel that appears and disappears each year as the weather dictates.
winter has come the best ice artists from around the world come to Kirkenes to sculpt this original accommodation of 20 rooms only suitable for non-cold people.
Would we be able to spend the night at -4 degrees? Ahem… We bet so, but just in case, we have plan B. The Thon Hotel Kirkenes , just a few meters from the ferry terminal, is our site.
The fjord view From the rooms they are one of those that take your breath away: the possibility of contemplating the immensity of the landscape without leaving the bed is something wonderful.
With modern and elegantly decorated rooms, the Thon is practical and cozy at the same time.
However, and No matter how comfortable we are by the fireplace in your living room, It's time to go out and explore the city. And around here the cold is noticeable, so we better bundle up...
The hotel that is rebuilt every year
Reaching the most central streets of the city in a town of these dimensions only takes about 5 minutes. We immediately arrive at Dr Wessels Gate , a pedestrian area in which those So cute and cuquis Nordic-style shops, –the same one that we have been plagiarizing for years in the rest of the world–, become the protagonists.
The children's parks they also have their space, and while we meet parents pushing their baby stroller, we take a look at some of the products of ** Husflid Kirkenes as , a decoration business in which we end up falling in love with each one of the pieces.**
On the same street we take a look at ** Terminal B , an innovative art gallery where borders capture the most attention ** and in which the artists of the area develop all their creativity with the most avant-garde exhibitions and projects.
Back outside we notice a detail. The signs of many places, including those on the streets, are not only written in Norwegian: they also appear in Cyrillic.
The Russian presence is noticeable beyond this curiosity, and it is that until 1926, the year in which the borders between Finland, Russia and Norway were established, the entire area was jointly occupied by the latter two.
You'll want to take everything from Husflid Kirkenes
Precisely meeting so close to the then USSR –something that gave it an obvious strategic position–, added to the iron reserves that were found in Kirkenes at the beginning of the 20th century, caused the town to be forced to live a most convulsive story.
Coveted by the Nazis during World War II, they did not hesitate to bring 100,000 soldiers here, something that, unfortunately, caused Kirkenes to become the second most bombed place – up to 320 airstrikes – during the war, after Malta.
Although the town has long since recovered from those events, a visit to the Grenselandsmuseet allows a better understanding of what happened in the area.
In the main square of Kirkenes is also the Monument to the Mothers of War , which commemorates the efforts of the women of that time.
To complete our historical immersion, there is nothing like going to ** Andersgrott a , a cave that served as an air shelter and bunker.**
A walk through the history of Kirkenes
And we decided to change the third. How about exploring the spectacular nature that surrounds Kirkenes? For this you can hire various excursions.
We bet, in the first place, on gastronomy – did anyone doubt it? And the best way find out what the 'Arctic Menu' tastes like, is letting yourself be carried away by the experts.
Hand in hand with ** Barents Safari ** we enter the waters of the Barent Sea in boats with a purpose: catch the famous king crab.
This species, artificially introduced by the Russians in 1960 to provide a new and valuable catch for Soviet fishermen, it became a real danger to the native species of the area.
The colony multiplied rapidly, and today it spreads more and more, governing a territory that does not belong to it. The only positive is that its catch has become quite a claim: its meat is juicy and tasty like no other and we, of course, want to taste it.
After collecting some specimens captured in cages in the depths of the Kirkenes Fjord –Beware, some king crabs can reach 2 meters and their claws are a real danger for our fingers, so it is better to leave it to the specialists to act–, the moment we were waiting for will come: In a beautiful cabin they will cook these delicacies for us while we accompany them with, why not, a glass of white wine.
On the hunt for the famous king crab
But if the march is going for us, what will really make our adrenaline go through the roof will be a visit to Husky Park.
Up to 180 of these huggable dogs will give us an unforgettable experience: that of cross the snow on sledges while we contemplate the overwhelming landscape that occurs in these parts.
Postcards that, for us, are like true works of art sculpted by nature. In a paradise like this, what can go wrong?
Absolutely nothing. Although it can improve, that always! Because, what if we changed the sleds pulled by huskies for snowmobiles? From the Snowhotel Kirkenes they organize outings to explore the surroundings through what is, without a doubt, the most practical means of transport during the winter months.
And if we take into account that in this corner of the world snow covers everything for 6 months a year, what for us is a novelty, for the Norwegians it is part of their daily life.
And it will be like this, mounted on our snowmobile, as the excursion climbs one more step: In the middle of a frozen lake, it will be time to check how good we are at arctic fishing. After making a hole in the ice, we will have to demonstrate our expertise. Will there be luck with some cod?
The ride on a sleigh pulled with huskies or on a snowmobile will make you enjoy incredible landscapes
Perhaps the luck of the beginner is on our side, although there is no need to fear: our appetite, fortunately, will not depend on skill with the rod, and dinner will be guaranteed in one of the restaurants scattered around the city.
For example, in ** Gapahuken , the beautiful restaurant of the Sollia Gjestegård hotel.** A menu full of proposals based on local products –salmon, cod and reindeer are the most acclaimed–, and impressive views of a lake, as well as the Russian border, confirm that the experience will be worth it. Of course, it is necessary to notify in advance and decide on the menu at the time of booking.
At this point, we have it clear: nothing can spoil our foray into this small town in the north. Anyone up for a drink? A shot of vodka will be the perfect ally to toast Russian-Norwegian style which is so popular in the area. In the Havna Pub , a most authentic tavern, we will be part of the Kirkenes nightlife in first person.
The second, for the more lively, may fall into the Ritz, a lively nightclub of the most peculiar. A few hours later, already in bed and sheltered in the warmth of our cozy hotel, it will be dream of reindeer Or with cod. With huskies or with vodka… What difference does it make! What we are clear about is that we could not take a better memory of Kirkenes. Of this amazing destination at the end of the world –Norwegian–.
Gapahuken, the beautiful restaurant of the Sollia Gjestegård hotel