Drakensberg: magic in the mountains of South Africa
The darkness floods everything when, still at dawn, the van in which we travel arrives at the marked meeting point. The cold is intense, it goes through the four layers of clothing that cover my skin, but who cares: what is about to happen is well worth the sacrifice.
Upon reaching our destination, an esplanade between crop fields, we see that someone has been in charge of lighting a bonfire. A sparkling fire that doesn't take long to reform, although the coffee that they immediately offer me makes it even more so. Over my head, an infinite blanket of stars; on the horizon, clarity appears. Dawn is already here.
Suddenly, a huge fan begins to fill the immense colored fabric with air. which, just a few minutes later, will take shape and take us for a ride hundreds of meters high. Maybe it's nerves, but before I even know it I'm jumping into the basket of the hot air balloon. Yes, the time has come: we are going to fly over the mythical Drakensberg Mountains.
the dragon mountains
It is here, acting as a natural border with the kingdom of Lesotho and in the heart of South Africa, where the largest mountain range rises —and of mountains, hey, South Africa knows a while— of the entire country: 200 kilometers of reliefs that form a backbone and that run through part of the province of KwaZulu Natal.
The landscape is governed by peaks that exceed 3,000 meters in height, imposing cliffs, deep valleys and immense meadows. An authentic jewel of nature that has been inhabited by man for more than 5,000 years and that, however, is one of South Africa's best kept secrets.
A secret that has yet to be revealed: as soon as we begin to climb, we see how the dawn mist clings tightly to the landscape. We move smoothly and the silence, the peace, the harmony, are absolute.
The largest mountain range in South Africa: 200 kilometers of relief
At our feet an almost dreamlike image in which the clouds, very low, play with the farmland and reach the neighboring mountains. When they finally dissipate, the magic is done: the picture is spectacular.
After almost an hour of flying with Dave from Drakensberg Ballooning at the controls, we touched down. A few glasses of champagne serve to celebrate the feat; a diploma, to prove it.
It's still early and hunger strikes: how about a breakfast at the family farm of our cicerone to recompose ourselves? Homemade jams, various breads, cereals, fruit juices... The feast is guaranteed and leaves us ready to continue the adventure.
FROM CAVE PAINTINGS TO ART GALLERIES
However, despite an epic journey start, the route promises many more treasures to discover in a land that, somehow, has something of a mystery. So much so that the first Dutch settlers who arrived there in the 17th century did not hesitate to name it the Drakensberg, “the mountains of the dragon”.
The journey continues this time by road, and takes us along undulating asphalt tracks that dodge all kinds of valleys, gorges and sandstone cliffs. The festival of colors of its mountains varies from ocher to red; from brown to gray.
We are surprised to learn that many of the refuges and caves hidden in the landscape are home to the largest concentration of cave paintings in sub-Saharan Africa: more than 35,000 figures tell the story of its ancient inhabitants, the San. One of the many reasons why in the year 2000 the Drakensbergs were declared Heritage of humanity by unesco.
The charming city of Clarens becomes our base camp. Secluded, quiet on days of low season —we are already warned that in high season, there is no room for a pin—, and frequented by artists and famous South African personalities, is nicknamed “the Jewel of the Free State” , state you are in. After staying at the foot of the Maluti Mountains in the charming Protea Hotel Clarens, It's time to go exploring.
It is logical that a city that lives facing the mountains has in its few streets with businesses dedicated to material for outdoor activities. But it draws our attention that, however, most of the premises are occupied by art galleries.
At the Windmill Center, an old windmill welcomes a series of shops where craftsmanship takes over: Clarens Gallery is committed to the sale of works —mostly paintings and ceramics— by local artists; Oak Leather, for leather bags and shoes.
In Mona Lisa vintage reigns everywhere, while outside of The Purple Onion an old Chrysler welcomes a gastronomic universe without equal: If there is one place in the area to stock up on South African produce to take home – chocolates, jams, the famous biltong or their beloved wines – this is it.
LET THE ADVENTURE CONTINUE
And it's time to get serious: with this natural spectacle surrounding us, we are already taking time to go out and kick it. We get comfortable and We set out to explore those landscapes that inspired, they say, J.R.R. Tolkien writing The Lord of the Rings. And it is that he does not surprise us.
Lovers of hiking will have several objectives in view: the variety of species that inhabit it, and the fascinating orography of the Golden Gate National Park, makes it a must see. If there is a desire to throw physical fund, Cathedral´s Peak, Giants Castle or Mount-Aux-Sources, conquered just 50 years ago by the first mountaineers, can be excellent options.
Although if more than walking, what you want is to discover the Drakensberg with adrenaline in the air, Clarens Xtreme makes it easy: zip line, climbing, rafting or quads are some of its proposals.
We opted for the latter: mounted on its four wheels and crossing fields and idyllic postcards, we finished the route at the top of a cliff with the best sunset we can imagine.
WHAT IF WE DRINK THE MOUNTAINS?
Well, it's not exactly that, but almost. Because if we already talked before about those South African wines that are so famous throughout the world —the country is among the largest wine producers on the planet for a reason—, the trip could not end without its corresponding tasting.
So with that intention we planted ourselves in Cathedral Peak Wine State, an institution in the Drakensberg: in its 29 hectares of land grow vines of the varieties Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotage, Petit Verdot and Sauvignon Blanc, which are the germ of wines of exquisite quality.
And they are thanks, precisely, to the place where they are: the abundant rains during the summer months, together with the combination of high temperatures and cold winds coming from the steep neighboring mountains, give rise to an exceptional product.
And we check it right away, because it's time to try them. And for that we sat down a huge table with views of the Winterton Valley where a cheese board awaits us to accompany: Hey, well things don't look bad. Four different wines, a pleasant conversation and the narration by our cicerone of the history of **this family business that was born back in 2007 convinced of wanting to make, with the rich lands of Drakensberg, pure magic. **
A magic that we drink, sip by sip, before finishing the visit, that does not announce the corresponding The End without having first passed through the winery shop, and without having taken a long-awaited walk among the vineyards.
An ideal route to admire, this time from afar, those peaks and summits that make up the roof of the Drakensberg Mountains. A landscape as unknown as unique and special.