Alba de Tormes: a trip to the past
The Villa de Alba de Tormes is a medieval town that hides many stories within the walls of its houses. Many travelers want to know the origin of the House of Alba whose name comes precisely from this town that once became a county and later a dukedom thanks to the Álvarez de Toledo house, very influential in the 15th century.
In fact, and as always recommended, the route through any historic town should always start from the Tourist Office which is usually located in a strategic place, in this case in the Castle of Alba de Tormes. From there you can see the groove left by the wall that once protected the city.
The Castle, which today allows guided tours with strict security measures, was the first residence of the Dukes of Alba in the 16th century and it barely conserves the Torre del Homenaje since it was annihilated in the War of Independence.
The garden still outlines what once made up the ships of the palace, which gives an idea of the greatness of the fortress. Inside, in addition to a museum, you can find some frescoes by Passini at the bottom of a stairway so steep it's dizzying, but well worth it. Plus there's upstairs a viewpoint that offers a simply priceless 360-degree panoramic view.
Castle of Alba de Tormes
The path that separates the castle of the Dukes of Alba from the Plaza Mayor is a good starting point if you don't want to lose detail. The people of Salamanca are well known for their strong Castilian character, but in Alba de Tormes they welcome you warmly , defying that cliché that is sometimes a mere anecdote.
The shields of the house of Alba, As a good protector of art and the Church, they can be seen on facades and buildings, true witnesses of the passage of history.
Castle of Alba de Tormes about 1842
SHELTER OF SAINTS
One of the reasons that makes Alba de Tormes a popular destination for lovers of sacred art is that It was the place where Saint Teresa of Jesus died. It was not planned, she wanted to die in Salamanca but she stopped at Alba de Tormes where she was already known for her founding work and where she rested eternally.
In fact, The Convent of the Annunciation houses a museum inside that exhibits a true treasure that the nuns kept for centuries: the remains of the incorrupt body of Santa Teresa. You can even see the heart and the left arm of the Saint, something that leaves no one indifferent.
Saint John of the Cross and Saint Teresa left an important mark on Alba de Tormes, a legacy that has been possible thanks to the patronage of the House of Alba. The convent of the Carmelite Fathers is the piece of history that portrays Saint John of the Cross and dates back to the 17th century. Together with that of Santa Isabel, they make up the power and influence that the House of Alba had over the clergy (and vice versa).
Church of San Juan de la Cruz
GOING FOR TAPAS IS ALSO RELIGION
Alba de Tormes has a lot of life. In fact, on Sundays the town's main square bursts into murmurs and revelry as there are quite a few terraces that are filled with locals and tourists in search of a good wine and something to eat.
Casa Fidel is possibly one of the most authentic places in Alba de Tormes and not for being able to have a good wine or a beer on the terrace but because his nose (or mask or mug) and his tumble They have made it a benchmark.
Walking around the outskirts of the square is a classic in Alba de Tormes, finding homemade delicacies in Doña Matea, in the Bodeguilla del Lazarillo de Tormes or in the Ducal. It is really difficult to do the complete route, but always with the idea of asking cod, mask, trout, pickled partridges or simply a combined plate.
If the idea is to have a snack and finish with a gin and tonic, the perfect option is without a doubt La Isla Chill Out, a place located on the islet of Tormes, very popular with those who have opted for water sports in the river and who seek to eat a rice without much consideration.
The terrace allows you to spend some time relaxing with views of the Tormes and access to the canoe service so they have a two in one. Water sports are some of the activities that most attract tourists to this unique town.
Tower of homage of the Castle of Alba de Tormes
THE DON FADRIQUE EXPERIENCE
Coming to this treasure of the lands of Salamanca would not make sense without living the experience at Don Fadrique. The Sanchez Monje brothers run this boutique hotel hidden in a typical Castilian manor house where tradition and modernity go hand in hand. Here the kitchen is risky and fun, who is not going to take risks with a product like that of these lands in a kitchen so full of talent?
What began as an illusion has ended up becoming one of the classics and essentials of the entire community of Castilla y León. It is without a doubt the best place to stay in Alba de Tormes and it also has its own car park.
Don Fadrique is not inside the villa, You have to cross the bridge to get to the house. From there it is well worth a photo of Tormes waddling sensually through the fields, drawing what in one day were battles and horse racing.
Don Fadrique, a taste delight
The coronavirus has not stopped the brothers from reinventing themselves, making room between tables and chairs to create two new spaces with different gastronomic bets.
On the one hand Taste of Memory , the gastronomic space that suddenly throws you into the past, to those horticultural flavors of yesteryear, to those elaborations that refuse to disappear; to memory Here the tomato tastes like a tomato and the cod is dressed as a garden. They recover the wood-fired oven meats and desserts where a selection of cheeses is not lacking.
The other bet is the Terrace with views of Alba de Tormes, an open (and safe) space where the country air rules. It's the place to ham and Iberian pork, if possible paired with a good local wine or a Laurent Perrier for those who are crazy about bubbles. Undoubtedly a place where no detail is missing and where reinvention has been imposed on the norm. Well, if there ever was...
BONUS TRACK FOR THE CURIOUS
The bridge that crosses the Tormes was crucial in the history of the town. Although it is medieval, there is evidence that it was built on an earlier one from Roman times. The river is part of the gastronomy of Alba de Tormes. It's not uncommon to find Tormes trout on a restaurant menu.
The Basilica of Santa Teresa is an unfinished work. This neo-Gothic building stopped its construction work in 1933, although part of the roof was later covered with wood. Today it houses an exhibition of the famous glazed ceramics from Alba de Tormes.
Bridge over the river Tormes
Alba de Tormes has been celebrating the festivities in honor of Santa Teresa since the year of her beatification, already 500 years on the way. And it continues to do so with the same customs of yesteryear; that is why they aspire to turn it into a Festival of National Interest.
The festivities have never been interrupted (that's quite a credit), even in the war against the French. That is why it is a good option to escape to Alba de Tormes at this time of year, to see the town in its sauce.
Bridge and remains of the castle of Alba de Tormes around 1865 (lithograph by Francisco Javier Parcerisa)